JERRY - Not sure how true this story is but many yrs ago I was told by a supplier to CAT that CAT made FIVE times as much profit selling service & repair parts on their equipment as they ever did selling the equipment new.
I have to agree, CC's probably weren't supposed to last 40+ yrs, that's why things like the steering gearboxes and driveshafts wear out. Really besides that there isn't much that ever goes wrong with them.
On Kevin's clutch drive plate I agree 100% on the balance issue, a very small amount of weld that far away from the crankshaft centerline would make a HUGE imbalance at full RPM. The weak spot I've always been able to find in the drivetrain on GD Cubbies is the very back rollpin in the driveshaft, the pin in the front of the coupler, the driveshaft hole wears egg-shaped and really starts hammering the pin. It's one of only two places a single rollpin drives the whole tractor and the rear pin in the coupler goes thru heat-treated 1045 steel while the OEM driveshaft is cheap normalized 1018 at best. The driveshaft wears and saves the reduction pinion. The clutch plates are both pinned to the driveshaft and share the driving force from the friction disc to the shaft so seldom ever wear. I wanted to have MWSC make Me a longer rear coupler for My 72 so I could put a second bolt/rollpin in My 72 when I put the K321 in two yrs ago but Julian didn't understand what I wanted I guess. So I'm "Testing" His 4140 pre-hardened driveshafts to see how much better they last than the stock CC driveshafts.
With those three drive pins so far from the center of the driveshaft there really shouldn't be that much force on those pins. I think something is hitting one of the pins and bending it and the plate, then bindng the friction disc up and breaking stuff. If it was a 1000 or 1200 with the thin drive disc I would say different but the older tractors have a much thicker disc.
SCOTT - Look on the serial # tag and make sure it's a QA-42 or QA-42a, make sure You have lift rod, chute adjusting rod & support, mounting adapter, gearbox. driveshaft, belt, and the scraping edge is in good shape, no "Chunks" out of the auger, Also make sure the discharge chute adjustable chute is there.
The serial # tag is on the top front surface right in front of the discharge chute.
I have to agree, CC's probably weren't supposed to last 40+ yrs, that's why things like the steering gearboxes and driveshafts wear out. Really besides that there isn't much that ever goes wrong with them.
On Kevin's clutch drive plate I agree 100% on the balance issue, a very small amount of weld that far away from the crankshaft centerline would make a HUGE imbalance at full RPM. The weak spot I've always been able to find in the drivetrain on GD Cubbies is the very back rollpin in the driveshaft, the pin in the front of the coupler, the driveshaft hole wears egg-shaped and really starts hammering the pin. It's one of only two places a single rollpin drives the whole tractor and the rear pin in the coupler goes thru heat-treated 1045 steel while the OEM driveshaft is cheap normalized 1018 at best. The driveshaft wears and saves the reduction pinion. The clutch plates are both pinned to the driveshaft and share the driving force from the friction disc to the shaft so seldom ever wear. I wanted to have MWSC make Me a longer rear coupler for My 72 so I could put a second bolt/rollpin in My 72 when I put the K321 in two yrs ago but Julian didn't understand what I wanted I guess. So I'm "Testing" His 4140 pre-hardened driveshafts to see how much better they last than the stock CC driveshafts.
With those three drive pins so far from the center of the driveshaft there really shouldn't be that much force on those pins. I think something is hitting one of the pins and bending it and the plate, then bindng the friction disc up and breaking stuff. If it was a 1000 or 1200 with the thin drive disc I would say different but the older tractors have a much thicker disc.
SCOTT - Look on the serial # tag and make sure it's a QA-42 or QA-42a, make sure You have lift rod, chute adjusting rod & support, mounting adapter, gearbox. driveshaft, belt, and the scraping edge is in good shape, no "Chunks" out of the auger, Also make sure the discharge chute adjustable chute is there.
The serial # tag is on the top front surface right in front of the discharge chute.
