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Archive through January 16, 2005
- Thread starter thoffman
- Start date
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Well, Tom- according to the page... it should be around 65hp/hours per gallon, but I think I'll probably have a little difficulty getting that much efficiency at the drawbar due to rolling resistance of undriven wheels. That motor's a tad bit heavier than a K-single, so it'll cause the fronts to sink in a bit. I'm sure, though, with just over a million hp on tap, that I can make up for it by brute force... :-}
Front axel for and aft play.
Last year I replaced the pin with a case hardened bolt by placing the bolt from the rear. I manufactured a lubrication chanel, cut to lrngth and secured with a thin Nyloc nut. This is not a good fix. Can some one advise?
I think the problem is the Channel the Axel rides in is spreading.
Thanks for all your help
Herb
Last year I replaced the pin with a case hardened bolt by placing the bolt from the rear. I manufactured a lubrication chanel, cut to lrngth and secured with a thin Nyloc nut. This is not a good fix. Can some one advise?
I think the problem is the Channel the Axel rides in is spreading.
Thanks for all your help
Herb
Ok, we need to find out who this gentleman is so Boner can get in contact with him.
(Message edited by cproctor on January 16, 2005)
(Message edited by cproctor on January 16, 2005)
Herbert... by 'fore-and-aft' play, are you referring to the entire axle sliding forward-and-aft, of 'pivoting' (left wheel comes back, right wheel goes forward)?
From what I've seen, the former isn't a serious issue, because the fit between axle and pin is so tight that the fore-aft movement of the axle becomes irrelevant... while the latter does cause steering problems.
I have found that a substantial number of axle-play issues I've resolved had to do with the channel having a welded-on 'collar' on front and rear side, which the axle pivot pin passes through... the collar had broken loose from the frame, allowing the axle to pivot on a new axis.
I do know that some have replaced the pivot pin with a hardened bolt and thin nut... I haven't seen a situation in any of my NF/WF collection where that was necessary, but I HAVE had situations where I've stuck a bolt through to hold an axle on 'cause I didn't have a proper pin on hand at-the-time.
As for the channel opening up, have you checked the weldments at frame rails for signs of cracks? I've seen a few cracks in this area, and it's possible they would deprive the channel of necessary support to resist opening-up...
Charlie- now I can see why Boner wanted to ask the guy about it- that's one righteous disk!
Looks like the framework is heavy enough to put the disks in without ballast on the frame...
From what I've seen, the former isn't a serious issue, because the fit between axle and pin is so tight that the fore-aft movement of the axle becomes irrelevant... while the latter does cause steering problems.
I have found that a substantial number of axle-play issues I've resolved had to do with the channel having a welded-on 'collar' on front and rear side, which the axle pivot pin passes through... the collar had broken loose from the frame, allowing the axle to pivot on a new axis.
I do know that some have replaced the pivot pin with a hardened bolt and thin nut... I haven't seen a situation in any of my NF/WF collection where that was necessary, but I HAVE had situations where I've stuck a bolt through to hold an axle on 'cause I didn't have a proper pin on hand at-the-time.
As for the channel opening up, have you checked the weldments at frame rails for signs of cracks? I've seen a few cracks in this area, and it's possible they would deprive the channel of necessary support to resist opening-up...
Charlie- now I can see why Boner wanted to ask the guy about it- that's one righteous disk!
Tyler T,
Thanks, after you said that I remembered your post from December 28, 2004 - 09:45 am:, grin
Thanks, after you said that I remembered your post from December 28, 2004 - 09:45 am:, grin
Jeff V: Not a stupid question!! In the old days, Kohler used a head gasket with some sort of fiber (asbestos maybe) sandwiched between the metal top & bottom. That "soak 'em" formula did, in fact, help seal the gaskets to the head & the block by causing the fiber to expand. However, its now the "new" days & current modern Kohler head gaskets are of totally different design and do not need such "shade-tree" fixin's. Buy yourself a new one, install, torque to specs, run engine till thoroughly warm & <u>retorque</u> to specs & you will have no further problems.
Myron B
Myron B
Sounds to me like your axle is sloppy in the frame on the tractor and or the hole you stuck that new bolt into was sloppy too. Make sure the axle is tight in the frame bracket and the hole is good.
Thanks guys,
The bolt is tight, the hole is good but the bolt backs off and the problem recurs. I don't know the nane of the type "Slotted" bolt that accepts a cotter key through a hole in the Bolt but I think I will try this next. Also a friend advised I weld a flat on the Bolt head side (Engine side )of the Frame to prevent the Bolt rotating. Does this sound like a Fix?
The bolt is tight, the hole is good but the bolt backs off and the problem recurs. I don't know the nane of the type "Slotted" bolt that accepts a cotter key through a hole in the Bolt but I think I will try this next. Also a friend advised I weld a flat on the Bolt head side (Engine side )of the Frame to prevent the Bolt rotating. Does this sound like a Fix?
Herbert- that's common, and as Charlie says- there's usually something down there at fault.
See the picture that Charlie posted? Up on the top-side of the channel (as it's shown in the picture) is a collar that's actually pressed into, and spot-welded to the channel. There's a thick one in the front (it's been drilled for a roll-pin to retain the axle pivot pin) and a rear one (that's narrow, not drilled). On the ones I've dealt with, that rear collar has broken off (welds weren't sufficient in my observation) and the collar fell off in the yard somewhere. My solution was to get another collar (removed from shot frame, or manufactured from round stock) and install it back into the frame, weld in place. To get the pin alignment correct, I installed an axle and pin into the frame, then slid the collar over the back end of the pin, clamped it in place, then tacked it in place with the MIG welder, disassembled the works, and finish-welded all the way around. Haven't had one come off.
If that doesn't solve your problem, then you've got some other problem. I'd question the fit of your replacement bolt- the OEM pin fit the axle pretty tight... an average-joe-hardware bolt might not fit as tight...
In any event, I just haven't seen a situation where tightening up the channel, or using a tightening bolt, really would improve the situation- that pin fits the axle so tight, and the welded-in channel collars, so there's just nothing down there that will allow that axle to pivot on anything other than the horizontal plane. Even on something like my end-loader tractor- it's just a factory pin in a channel, and although neither of the collars had broken off, I did finish the weld all 'round the collar, and it's tight-as-can-be... pivots on the pin's axis, but no other axis. I'd say there's something else wrong.
Which model IH Cub Cadet tractor is this?
(Message edited by dkamp on January 16, 2005)
See the picture that Charlie posted? Up on the top-side of the channel (as it's shown in the picture) is a collar that's actually pressed into, and spot-welded to the channel. There's a thick one in the front (it's been drilled for a roll-pin to retain the axle pivot pin) and a rear one (that's narrow, not drilled). On the ones I've dealt with, that rear collar has broken off (welds weren't sufficient in my observation) and the collar fell off in the yard somewhere. My solution was to get another collar (removed from shot frame, or manufactured from round stock) and install it back into the frame, weld in place. To get the pin alignment correct, I installed an axle and pin into the frame, then slid the collar over the back end of the pin, clamped it in place, then tacked it in place with the MIG welder, disassembled the works, and finish-welded all the way around. Haven't had one come off.
If that doesn't solve your problem, then you've got some other problem. I'd question the fit of your replacement bolt- the OEM pin fit the axle pretty tight... an average-joe-hardware bolt might not fit as tight...
In any event, I just haven't seen a situation where tightening up the channel, or using a tightening bolt, really would improve the situation- that pin fits the axle so tight, and the welded-in channel collars, so there's just nothing down there that will allow that axle to pivot on anything other than the horizontal plane. Even on something like my end-loader tractor- it's just a factory pin in a channel, and although neither of the collars had broken off, I did finish the weld all 'round the collar, and it's tight-as-can-be... pivots on the pin's axis, but no other axis. I'd say there's something else wrong.
Which model IH Cub Cadet tractor is this?
(Message edited by dkamp on January 16, 2005)
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Herb, Dave, others,
The 3/4" hardened bolt with slotted nut is a VERY good way to eliminate axle slop during steering. IH realized this when they designed the 82 series and installed a bolt and slotted nut from the factory, then SPECIFICALLY listed it in the "Sales Know-How Product Guide - International Series 82 Cadet Tractors"....I'm reading my copy right now.....
"Improved axle pivot reduces free play. We've eliminated the straight front axle pin and replaced it with a heavy bolt and castelated nut with a hole in the steering bolt for a cotterpin. This new design improves the steering for the entire life of the tractor. The nut can be tightened up for wear - drawn up solid - to reduce play......."
I install 3/4" grade 8 polts in all of my tractors with reduced thickness slotted nuts, it works GREAT.
The 3/4" hardened bolt with slotted nut is a VERY good way to eliminate axle slop during steering. IH realized this when they designed the 82 series and installed a bolt and slotted nut from the factory, then SPECIFICALLY listed it in the "Sales Know-How Product Guide - International Series 82 Cadet Tractors"....I'm reading my copy right now.....
"Improved axle pivot reduces free play. We've eliminated the straight front axle pin and replaced it with a heavy bolt and castelated nut with a hole in the steering bolt for a cotterpin. This new design improves the steering for the entire life of the tractor. The nut can be tightened up for wear - drawn up solid - to reduce play......."
I install 3/4" grade 8 polts in all of my tractors with reduced thickness slotted nuts, it works GREAT.
sblunier
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Chris,
It may also need a new spark plug. Those heaters use a long reach continous sparking plug to light off the mix. A common failure is for the ignition module to go bad (best fix for that is another junk heater for spare parts).
It may also need a new spark plug. Those heaters use a long reach continous sparking plug to light off the mix. A common failure is for the ignition module to go bad (best fix for that is another junk heater for spare parts).
sblunier
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One other thing on steering and axle slop....
Late production MTD units, starting about the tiem of the cyclops hood, also had a bolt on each side of the axle channel and behind the axle. These bolt heads rode on a flat spot on the axle casting. Carefull adjsutment of the center pin and both axle sway bolts would result in ZERO fore-aft axle play when steering.
Late production MTD units, starting about the tiem of the cyclops hood, also had a bolt on each side of the axle channel and behind the axle. These bolt heads rode on a flat spot on the axle casting. Carefull adjsutment of the center pin and both axle sway bolts would result in ZERO fore-aft axle play when steering.
Herb ,heres a pic of the bolt in a 1200 quietline and also a pic of the for and aft bolts Steve was refering to. This is a very good and recomended fix that I have done many times. most of the tractors I have fixed have been spread from fore and aft shock. JD also used the for and aft adj. bolts on there 318s . Rich
Steve, Rich and Dave,
Thanks guys. Any advice on steering Knuckles, They seem to become sloppy after a short time. I may have got something made in China. Could you recommend a source for US Made Knuckles? I have not ordered these from Carter and Gruenwald, perhaps that is the way to go, they have good stuff!
Thanks guys. Any advice on steering Knuckles, They seem to become sloppy after a short time. I may have got something made in China. Could you recommend a source for US Made Knuckles? I have not ordered these from Carter and Gruenwald, perhaps that is the way to go, they have good stuff!
