Archive through January 15, 2014

[bbranstetter]

Picked up a qa42 for the wifes 782. Just picked up a new pulley yesterday, just need to get the upper arms modified and should be good to go. I'll try and get some picks out tonight if I can.

 

[jclazar]

Dennis F- I was able to steel away some time today only to mount the new tri-rib V-60 Vredestein 400-8 {spelling is correct} with tubes. I had purchased these from Miller Tire, in the same state where I live. I had rounded away the edges on a few pry bars, but on the first attempt to install the tire, chipped the paint in three places. Nothing to cry about as a small paint brush and paint will cover the chips. By then I decided that the tire would have to be muscled on,.... and that procedure resulted in the second tire installation with no chips in the paint! Next, I checked for leaks in the valve stem, and around the tire bead. When I would wiggle the valve stem on both wheels, soap bubbles would appear. I'm hoping the escaped air was from what ever may have been between the tube and rim? I did use a fair soap : water combination on the tube, as well as the tire and rim. I don't know if I can manage the new Carlisle 6-12 Tru powers, but I don't have a finish coat on those, so kudos to me!

I have had 100% success with Permatex Indian Head gasket sealant. Very friendly to use, I smeared a thin coat on the two metal surfaces of the rear cover of the transmission case 4 years ago now, when I changed the oil, and have no leaks to report. I'll keep your recommendation in mind, and give it a try at some point!

 

[dfrisk]

JOHN - You did REAL good. For some reason one of the frt tires on the 70 I refurbished this spring started leaking down this summer. SON brought the wheel/tire up with a patch kit plus a new inner tube. He wanted the tube installed. Think I had three chips on the paint after I had the new tube in also.

Both my 72 and SON's 70 need new frt tires, the factory installed GY's are just falling apart. The 4.00X8 Vredesteins tri-ribs will be my tire of choice too.

The tire shop that mounted the BIG rear tires on my freshly repainted rims for my #1 snow mover 2-1/2 yrs ago put some scuffs and four small pin-pricks in the paint. Their tire machine was similar in operation to a tire machine in a car/truck tire shop except it was "vertical" instead of horizontal, used four steel bars with sharp points that actually embedded themselves in the steel of the rim to hold the rim steady while it turned. Worked great at rolling the 40+ year old tire on & off the rim. The tire was actually "bonded" to the rust from the CaCl fluid the tire had since I mounted the tires back in 1969. I'd tried to take those tires off at home for probably 5-6 HOURS, the tire shop got them off in 5 minutes.

DON - I've used Right Stuff many times. It actually makes a great gasket "Replacement". Most older V8 engine intake manifold gaskets use CORK for the frt & back manifold gaskets where the manifold seals down onto the engine block. They're just short loose pieces and 99% of the time they will move slightly and cause oil leaks. Tip I read in a magazine years ago is to leave them out, and use Right Stuff on the walls of the block, let it skim over, then drop the manifold on. Never had one leak, in fact, you can normally reuse them.

I still like my Hylomar for gasket dressing, it's real tacky, holds the gasket in place, sticks where you put it, stays pliable, and is rather easy to remove. The fact some Formula 1 race teams use it is enough of a recommendation for me, plus a couple NASCAR teams.

 

[jboelens]

Tony - at the Case IH dealership the best gasket sealer is 515 sealant. It's a red finish - but if air never gets to it - it NEVER hardens. Many of the new case tractor don't use gaskets - they use this sealant in lieu. I'll have to check out back the actual name - but I know its branded CNH. A little pricey - $15 a tube maybe - I know that a caulk tube of it runs me (employee discount) about $87

 

[kjohannes]

Hi folks, I have a repair question for you and wanted to get some advice. I have a 105 with a manual lift handle. The lift handle has the lockout push button on the front. The problem is that the top push button, the one you push down with your thumb, is snapped off in the thinner part of the push button. Some of you probably already know what kind of push button I'm talking about. It's about 2 inches long with a milled thinner part in the middle to give the lockout button something to lock in to. I didn't realize it was snapped off until I bought a new one. The one that was in there was just a piece of 1/2" rod about 1-1/2" long (straight, no thinner section). I have a feeling that there is no way of unscrewing the broken part of the button that is still down in the tube. That's probably why it was broken in the first place by the PO. Is it possible to cut off the lower end of the rod, which I assume is a 90 degree bend at the end, and then slide the old rod out the top of the tube? Of course I would have to remake a new rod out of whatever it is 5/16" maybe? and put a new bend on the end and re-thread for the new push button. I have never had one of these apart and the parts breakdowns I have seen don't really show a good diagram of the rod and spring assembly. Thanks in advance.

 

[thoffman]

Kevin "J",
That would be the last resort, but it would work. Another member here once took off a small anount off the top of the lift hadle/tube and was able to get on it with a ViseGrip. Do you think you have enough "meat" on it to do that?

 

[dtanner]

Kevin Johannes
you need to look at the Faq above; It will answer all your questions . I need to read what is there more than I would like to admit.the info on this site is all you need for your Cub. Don`t get me wrong I will help when I think you need help. It is all the hobby here .

 

[mgerecke]

Questions on sealing the rear cover on my 149. I have had no success putting these plates back on with a new IH gasket and not having them drip slightly. I am putting them on dry and making sure the holes in the plate are true-banged them back on a metal anvil. With all the discussion on sealants, I figured someone would chime in. I think I need to use some form of sealant with the gasket. I am torquing it to specs also and them tightening slightly to make it leak less.
I need to pull the pump from the rear end and figured I would change the fluid while I am at it. Maybe I should just pull the pump and pour it out the front!!

 

[brhodes]

Speaking about FAQ's
Thank you for the
33. How do I repair my Trunion on my Hydro?
in Cub Cadet FAQ section the 5/32 key stock works very well.
Also Charlie thank you for the for the parts that you sent back before your fire.
I have not posted much in the last several months, but know my thoughts were with you.

Back on topic. My 125 with blade and hydraulic pump is a beast in the snow only 50 lbs. of added wt. (ok plus my 250 lbs.) can push this snow and ice up to 3+ foot high. Zig Zags and chains.
Sorry I do not got pic's to include.

 

[bwittman]

Mark G.

Thank you for your question. I have the same problem after changing the HyTran on my 1250 Nightmare last summer. I hate to have to change the fluid once more, but hate to see it dripping on the garage floor, too.

While there is access, and no fluid, does anyone recommend changing the real wheel seals? Are they prone to seeping of leaking? I am wondering if it is a standard procedure to pull the axles and inspect the bearings and change the wheel seals, or are these pretty much trouble-free.

 

[dfrisk]

BRIAN - I wouldn't call the rear wheel seals "Trouble-Free", they do wear out and leak. Not sure I'd replace them until they start leaking. They will weep a little, wet the back side of the wheel flange with oil long before they drip Hy-Tran on the floor.

On a hydro, ALL CC's used needle roller bearings, and those I would call trouble-free. The earlier GD's in the low HP tractors, 70, 71,72, etc used a plain bronze bushing and those did wear. "Past tense" because I swapped the axle carriers on my 72 with the ones from a 123 chassis I have.

What's funny is when you buy your rear wheel seals from an old Cub Cadet dealer that's also a Case/IH or now Case New Holland dealer, the ticket with the parts calls the rear axle seals a, "Corn Head Gearbox seal".

JOHN B. - International, or Navistar has a gray sealant they sell in a small tube or chalking gun cartridge that's supposed to be REALLY good too. similar to Right Stuff, only better. Not sure what they call it either, or have a part number but I could check on another forum and see if I can come up with a name & number. I know my local C/IH dealer has it on the shelf. Not sure about the 300 & 400 series engines but I know the old 7.3L PSD's, and T444E's used that sealant on the oil pans, never heard of one leaking at the pan to block seal, but the dip stick adapter that's sealed with an o-ring almost always leaks.

 

[bbranstetter]

Here's the thrower for the wife's tractor. Chain has been sitting in some light oil for a few days, bearings and universals greased and things are rolling over real smooth with the new pulley installed. Got some new upper arms on order, just need to find a belt now. Hope to pull the chute off and get that sanded and painted this weekend if at all possible. So far so good.

 

[sblunier]

Brian B.

The U joints on that thrower are "out of phase" and can potentially knock during operation. You should slide the driveshaft slip joint apart and re-phase so both driveshaft "U's" are in the same plane, not rotated 90 deg as they are now.

See purple lines....

 

[nbextermueller]

Nice Brian, I'm jealous. I've never needed a blower until this year. I've passed on plenty of QA42's. yours is looking sweet.

My dream piece would be a 450 blower... I've not seen once of those locally.

 

[nbextermueller]

Good catch Steve, but honestly... Am I the only one NOT scouring every detail of every photo posted here?

 

[digger]

Nic B.
You probably are the only one NOT scouring every detail of every photo posted here.

New guys miss the little things and others catch them and save headaches down the road. Plus it helps others that might have the same issue, or at least go check their machines to see if they missed something less obvious.

 

[bbranstetter]

Ya, I noticed that earlier but just didn't do it, just me being lazy

. The grease zerk for the shaft was torn up so I figured I'd have to pull it apart later any way. The ball popped out of the shaft and needs to be fixed but I don't know if its pressed in or what. Maybe I could drill it out tap it for a standard low profile zerk? What do you think?

 

[sblunier]

Nic,

One of those things you get bit on somewhere else and notice forever.........

And, like Charlie said...easier to fix now, than in the middle of a snow storm when the thrower gets to knocking!!!

 

[nbextermueller]

I'm not complaining... I'm in awe of it. I visit here a dozen times a day because the really good guys keep me sharp.

I should notice those things, but don't have the experience. Yet...

 

[mhomrighausen]

Kevin J. Here is a "how to replace" that broken piece. It isn't that hard. It just takes patience and time. First thing to do is you're going to have to remove the lift lever from the tractor. Now take a MAPP gas torch (much hotter than a regular propane torch) and heat the bent piece of rounded stock that helps lock the lever into the desired height. Heat enough to straighten this piece. Allow the piece to cool down and then feed it backwards or up enough so that you can pull out the whole rod. Now once the rod is removed take the time to spray either CONKLIN or STRONG ARM SPRAY onto the area where the threads are so it can begin to loosen up the rusted threads. Believe me these two things beat the daylights out of anything else. After about five minutes you should be able to use a couple of vice grips 9one holding the rod and the other turning the broken piece. Before reinstalling the new piece be sure to apply some Never Sieze compound to the threads. Re-insert your rod and heat the rod once again just enough to put the bend back into the rod. I did the repair twice this summer and I should have taken pictures only I don't like grabbing a camera with dirty hands.