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Archive through January 13, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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jdanke

Member
Joined
May 28, 2009
Messages
9
displayname
Joel Danke
Here's an action shot of moving the 18" of snow we got yesterday.

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I talked with my dad last night. We like how easy it is to maneuver the hydro, and are amazed at how much they can push!

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(this guy had nothing to do with it!
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Nice pictures Joel!
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I can't wait to get snow like that so I can put my 149 to work.
 
To those who got buried by the recent blizzard: I had my fill of it last year, but I had to move the same 3 inches of snow 3 times already, as it all tends to pile up in front of the garage, but not like last year.

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This is what a couple of inches does.

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Snowpocalypse 2010: The snow was up to the hood on my 4WD F-150
 
Joel Danke

Looking at that water filler rear end I would say there was no hytran in it.Hytra would make it dark even if frozen. Looks like all water in the picture you posted.

Its warn here and the snow is melting and now I can see what the chains on my 149 did to the drive way.
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I`am not impresses with all the scratch marks I see.Where I thought it was not spinning at all there are marks from the chains.Looks like i`ll have to use my atv when there is not a lot of snow and the 450 blower when I get a bunch of snow.
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Joel
Your third picture down reminds me to warn everyone that you should always make sure your wife/girlfriend is dressed properly when watching you clear snow with your Cub Cadet or she might freeze.
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Tom-
I prefer ALOT of snow because I want to be snowed in and work from home. It is a nice perk that comes with my job.
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Kraig,
The equipment lift handle was the solution! Thanks! I can't believe I never noticed what it does. It plows like a champ now. Did my driveway in less then 20 minutes.
Michael
 
--Aatay (Art?), --Rodney, --Paul, --Dennis, --Donald, --Kraig, --Paul, and --Lewis

Thanks for sharing your insights and photos on the design of the Original Cub Cadet in yesterday's forum. I learned a few things to look for. I would be curious to try one out to see what 7 HP could do, but I'm not sure I'm willing to restore one just yet.

I'm still trying to get my red 782 into what I consider good mechanical shape. I like the Hydrostatic transmission, I like the power, I like the hydralic lift. I even like my headlights (it seems that I'm always a few passes shy of finishing when the sun goes down).

But the truth is, I could probably get my work done with a little less tractor. I only have a 1/2 an acre or so. After all my struggles with the twin cylinder B&S engine (now a Kohler), the simplicity of a single-cylinder engine on a narrow frame appeals to me. The trouble is, I don't know the practial difference between a 70 and a 105 or a 125 (although I know the 123 has a Hydrostatic).

I suspect there is a yellow and white tractor in my future, I just have to wait and see what develops.
 
Don, I agree that it looks like someone was out of Hytran and had a jug of water handy. It took quite some time to melt & chip everything out.

Nobody local has Hytran, so I asked my father-in-law to pick up 5 gallons of HTX from his local tractor place for me to pick up on thanksgiving. I ended up with 5 gallons of generic fluid. So I'm using it to flush the transfer case (rather than hurt his feelings!). If I wanted generic, I would just go to tractor supply...
 
JOEL - While I agree that Hy-Tran is the best for CC rearends, espcially hydro's, the gear drives like a #70 are pretty forgiving. I don't recommend WATER since when it freezes it expands and could crack the castings, plus rust bearings... but IH did say 30 weight motor oil was O-K in them. The CUB rearends were originally designed to be lubed with 90W gear oil back in the mid/late 1940's.
 
Hey guys... I could use some suggestions on what to check in fixing my cub.

My K241 won't stay running without the choke on a small amount. As soon as I turn the choke off it sputters and stalls. It started when I was blowing snow the other night and I thought it was bad gas. So I bought new gas, put a new plug in, and put a new condenser in and it is still sputtering and acting up.

Any ideas what could be going on? The new condenser I had was a different part than the one I replaced. The new one required me to add a wire to connect to the coil where as the old one I replaced had the wire built in.
 
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DENNIS,
You mentioned earlier about the frame cracking
on an ORIGNIAL. I have heard that before,but never seen one broke. Did that happen often,and can it be repaired without showing? Or does a person have to find another frame? Does anyone have pics to post of a broken one?
Thanks,
Rod
 
RODNEY - There's been pic's of cracked & welded frames for Originals posted here. Last original I ran was in 1965 just before it was traded on the #70 out in the shop. I'd hit something mowing the baryard and snapped that toothed timing belt.. again and Dad traded for the 70 instead of paying $22 for a new belt! The idea was to get away from the timed mower deck.

Going from memory, where the steel frt frame bends 90 deg. to bolt to the cast rearend the bent flanges crack from stress. They can be welded, think there was a pic of one that was reinforced, and with careful grinding & sanding the repair would be invisible. The frames on production Orginals was different that the prototypes which appearantly suffered worse cracking problems than production tractors. I wouldn't say it was a common problem, but it happens. Paul Bell would know for sure but I think 2-3 of the prototypes had cracked frames from their rigorous testing after only a short period of time. Think one had a frame replaced before the testing period was complete.

If a frame cracked & broke it would be hard on other things like the driveshaft, clutch/brake linkages, possibly the OPERATOR.
 
Hey, guys I am new here. I have wanted tractor for long time, I ended buying a cub original ser# 30424. It runs great, mower deck works cuts grass. All seems original. Anyway How are you my name is Tim.
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Joel I bought a 582 up in Torrington, the seller said gear shifter broke so he just parked it. I bought 1 year later pulled the cover and it was filled with water like yours. I found gears on ebay for $40.00 and rebuilt, the gears came with all bearings shafts ect. Let me know if you need parts, I might be able to get you a full rear. I live about 1-1/2 hour from you. I found a few down here for $70.00 complete. Their is also a guy just over the border in MA that was selling full transaxle for $100.00
 
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TIM,
Your "ORIGNIAL" was built (maybe)on the 1st day of APRIL of 1962.
Glad to have you.Might as well jump in with both feet and show us pics, if you can.
ROD
 
Hi all. Today I went to Southern, MO to meet a menber off here. I came home with an original 105 10hp for my 105. I also got a great looking painted hood and front casting. Last he had an original 7hp out of a 73. I bought that too. Back in the early 80's my dads box store Roper Ralley died so we went looking for a replacement. He found two Cub Cadets cheep and bought them. One was an Original the other a 73. The 73 had a replacement 8hp. We were bitten by the bug then!! LOL We mowed with those for years. My brother has both of them and another 73 chassie missing wheels and engine. My brother and I wanted to rebuild my fathers 73. My dad passed in 06. Members from Murray might remenber him. He had all the Cub Cadets down Charley Miller RD. Anyway my brother was excited I found a nice original 73 engine. Now we can rebuild our dads 73.

I see ya'll are talking about Original frames being cracked. I have seen one. People saw we mowed with Cub Cadets and fooled with them. One day two guys pulled up in a truck with an Original in the back. It was sagging in the middle but ran. They were wanting to get rid of it. Wanted 50 bucks for the thing. Dad bought it for it had a great running engine. We took it to a welder and had the bolt holes welded up then redrilled plus the cracks welded. No more sag.

Love the snow pictures!!

Also thanks to member for showing me his great looking Cub Cadet collection and doin business.

Michael Hale
 
Kraig,

Yes, I have everything, I think. The ported hydro came from an 1811 and I need to check the trunion. The only obvious thing I see is a small rust spot about 1/16" in diameter on the ram of the cylinder. So all I need in the way of new parts is the gasket?
Thanks for the info, Kraig
 
Michael, you didn't meet KentuckyKen did you. He's in the SE part of the state.
CHARLIE, did you check out Michaels' e-mail address !
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