Archive through January 12, 2011

[wshytle]

Frank S.-

Heat is one way for sure but that is a 3/4" shaft so you can take a 3/4" open end wrench, put it over the shaft right beside the bushing and knock it sideways into the bushing. I use this same technique to remove plastic handlebar grips.

 

[fsnerd]

Wayne Shytle

thought of that too.
the problem is, there is not much room to work in, no matter how i do it. just wondering if anybody had an easier way.
whether i heat and twist with vice grips, or hit with the wrench, not much room for swinging or twisting.

 

[fsnerd]

Donald Tanner -

dont start. this is what i found today.
first pic is when i opened my front door.
second is my truck.
third is my car.
fourth is the town, apparently thinking I would like more snow in my driveway, so they pushed the snow from the street half way up my driveway and across my lawn.

 

[fsnerd]

oops. lets try that again.

 

[wshytle]

Frank-

It sounds like it's really rusted together (duh) so I'd soak it for a spell. It doesn't take much room to hit a wrench with a small hammer. Even tapping might work; it would help get the penetrant in anyways as would some heat.

Got any acetone and ATF?

Also, can you get the shaft to come out any distance through the bushed end? I think the turnbuckle rod would have to be removed for this. That way you will have better access to the problem. I will again suggest removing the grill since you're having such an issue (if you haven't already).

 

[fsnerd]

Wayne Shytle -

shaft can be moved out of either side of the frame. meaning, i can push it into the left side of the frame by pulling it out of the right side of the frame, and vice versa.
rod with the turnbuckle is off.
grill is off.

i realize either the wrench or torch will work, i just wanted to see if there was an easier way.

 

[mhale]

Yea Lucas that was at the expo tractor show last Saturday. Guy from Benton had the 105 and a 1949 Farmall Cub forsale. Both didn't last long.

Michael

 

[wmakowicki]

Got to plow today, the cub worked a bit today cars are no longer shadow boxed. The lake has sleds going buy at 100MPH. Got to love winter. The picture of the hill is overlooking lake Candlewood.

 

[mgonitzke]

Wayne-

I'd put the snowthrower on the 1250 and not the 582 if it were my choice to make.

 

[rodsmith]

Made this for the shop.
ROD

 

[dtanner]

I went back out with the 149 and did some pushing with the blade.Plowing snow is a blast but power angle would be nice.

seems the camera did not like the cold in that one picture. What a blast , had to push the snow back off the side road so the county plow won`t plug my drive. I plowed out one guy next door just for fun.

 

[rodsmith]

Fixed this up for the ole shop! ROD

 

[rodsmith]

ONCE MORE!

 

[digger]

Rod,
This is a little closer to Cub yellow.

 

[jchamberlin]

What is it?

On January 3, 2011 Lewis Palma posted a picture of a tractor he purchased for $200. There wasn't any model information in the picture or the text, but I can't get over several of the features of the tractor, particularly the fact that the engine and frame appear to bolt to the transmission/differential, just like some "real" tractors I've seen.

Can someone please identify the model of the tractor shown and satisfy my curiousity?

Picture re-displayed below

 

[aaytay]

Jeremiah-
Welcome to the world of the "Original" Cub Cadet. This was <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>'s first foray into the world of Garden Tractors beginning in 1961 and running through 1963.

These tractors were produced with 7hp Kohlers.

You can click here for a bit more info:
IH Cub Cadet.com

Click on my profile for a pic of another "Original".

 

[nbartee]

I'll try my question again. In converting my 682 to hydraulics, is there any new parts I need? I know I’ll need a gasket from pump to differential and a new filter and maybe a rear plate gasket. Is there anything else?
Also, I bought all of the other parts used. Does anyone think it’s worth the effort to go through each component & replace seals, etc? What about the pump itself?
Thanks

 

[rodsmith]

JEREMIAH,
I'll add that ORIGINAL should be an early 1961,because there isn't a adjustment slot for the steering.The later ones have a slot cut out under where the voltage regulator is on that one.
I also don't see a cutout for the creeper gear handle.

 

[pandrews]

Good morning since it's going to the Original day. My O serial # 15100 (no steering adjuster half moon hole and no creeper cut out) has the voltage regulator bolted to the front of the battery tray under the hood. Is this correct? I see no holes on the right side of pedastal were it might have been. PO bought it new in 1961 said he traded in a horse drawn disc at the dealership as a down payment.
THANK YOU!!!

 

[dfrisk]

JEREMIAH - To add to what ART & Rodney both said, the '61 to early '63 vintage CC's were still good lawn & garden tractors compared to the competition, but the joint where the steel frt frame bolted to the rugged cast iron rearend tended to crack & break in hard usage, there was a BELT between the engine and drive train, there was no PTO clutch until late in the production run when the PTO clutch for the CC 70/100's were adapted to this vintage tractor, all powered implements had to have a type of clutch in their drive train. Very few of the rearend parts interchainged with later CC's, and the rear band type brake only operated on one rear wheel, which in some conditions would retard the turning of both rear wheels, and in slick conditions would not. Until outboard disc brakes were put on at the ends of both rear axles even the later internal wet disc brake was prone to only stopping one wheel with the least traction, which could make for some excitement when going down slick hills.... BT-DT. Also, that vintage CC was the only CC to ever use an oil bath air cleaner, IMHO, not the best at filtering dirt from the intake air going into the engine.

I like that vintage CC, but since ALL my CC's are workers, I prefer the later vintage tractors, 70/100 and newer, except the Quiet-Lines, where once again many of the design features differ, like the rubber-mounted engine, elec. PTO clutch, etc.

I will say the design of the '61 to early '63 vintage CC's lend themselves to a variety of different options the later tractors didn't have like the M&W 9-speed gearbox. Nothing like that was ever made for the later tractors.