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Archive through January 11, 2009
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Howdy yall!
This is my first post.
I bought a 1963 Original the other day. Did not run. I put a new coil, condensor, and a custom 8MM spiral core wire on it. I also cleaned a ton of sandy particles out of the carb, and it now runs like a champ. I gave 2 bills for the tractor, the belly mower, 2 chisel plows, a spring trip 42 inch blade, a disc plow, a sleeve hitch, and some grease.
First thing after I got it running was I tried to mow. The blades hit each other and the belt snapped. I guess I should have checked it out better. I have a new belt and two new blades sitting on the floor of my office. I am going to clean both shafts, bearings, etc and repack/set up to mow.
The front axle also broke the bolt hole completely out of the frame on the front side. I could only drive in reverse, as forward, the tires hit the mower deck. I have welded the broken piece back in, along with a 1/8 plate to re-brace the frame.
I don't want to disappoint ya'll, but I hate the yellow, and will be painting it international red and white.
Anything else I need to look at? I have already run 2 tanks of fuel(and MMO) through it, and have greased every zerk I can find...
This is my first post.
I bought a 1963 Original the other day. Did not run. I put a new coil, condensor, and a custom 8MM spiral core wire on it. I also cleaned a ton of sandy particles out of the carb, and it now runs like a champ. I gave 2 bills for the tractor, the belly mower, 2 chisel plows, a spring trip 42 inch blade, a disc plow, a sleeve hitch, and some grease.
First thing after I got it running was I tried to mow. The blades hit each other and the belt snapped. I guess I should have checked it out better. I have a new belt and two new blades sitting on the floor of my office. I am going to clean both shafts, bearings, etc and repack/set up to mow.
The front axle also broke the bolt hole completely out of the frame on the front side. I could only drive in reverse, as forward, the tires hit the mower deck. I have welded the broken piece back in, along with a 1/8 plate to re-brace the frame.
I don't want to disappoint ya'll, but I hate the yellow, and will be painting it international red and white.
Anything else I need to look at? I have already run 2 tanks of fuel(and MMO) through it, and have greased every zerk I can find...
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Welcome Brandon..
You most likely have a 'Timed' deck, and needs to be set up so the blades miss each other... Check out the FAQ's for a link to the manuals...
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/Odeckmanual1.pdf
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/Odeckmanual2.pdf
You most likely have a 'Timed' deck, and needs to be set up so the blades miss each other... Check out the FAQ's for a link to the manuals...
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/Odeckmanual1.pdf
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/Odeckmanual2.pdf
Thanks Scott, Yep it is a timed deck. Already got the manuals. Hopefully all the bearing, etc are there, as it looks like it was NOT well maintained...
I also need a lift rod for my blade. The attachment point is in front of the tractor and the rod would go inside the frame and attach to the lifting arm somehow. Does anyone a manual and/or pictures of this?
I also need a lift rod for my blade. The attachment point is in front of the tractor and the rod would go inside the frame and attach to the lifting arm somehow. Does anyone a manual and/or pictures of this?
Brandon, welcome!
Actually if you have the spring trip blade you're better off adding the lift bracket to the lift arm and going with an external lift rod as shown on this 100.
Hey Guys, I was wondring what is the biggest set of wheels i could use on my 106. I'm using it as a custom tractor. I just picked up a set of 15 inch chrome wheels for free and was wondring if they would fit or will I need to remove the fenders.
- these wheels are very similar to the ones i got.
Cory, you may be able to get them under the fenders if you space the fenders up some. That or you'll have to do like Lonny did when he put 15" rims/tires on his Cub and make some custom fenders.
i got the blower for 40 bucks but i cant get it till sat because the guy wont be around till sat so i'll be their bright an early its my first blower i hope i like it if not it will be for sale or trade i like the o with the plow it really pushes the snow an i like when people go by they slow down an stair i just hate when they stop an want to buy it
Got a new "pointsaver" today! I am excited to get it but I'm going to wait till the end of next week to put it in so it's gonna sit here in the box for me to stare at!! Thanks to Dave Kirk for it! Also to Kraig who posted pics of his "Killer" with one on! Still bored to tears!!
Going to look at that blower on thursday or friday.
Brandon, post a want add in the classifieds. I'm sure someone has the parts. I might even have a spare of the bracket for the lift arm. I'll have to check when I get time. Tonight will be spent clearing snow though. You could also place a want add for the "internal" lift rod and see which you find first.
mhomrighausen
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- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Geez Charlie. Those poor little fellas are freezing. They need to be covered with some blankets.
We have around 4-5" of snow on the ground from this morning. It is a wet snow at that. No sense in trying to move it. The 30+ mph winds with gusts to 50 mph will do enough of that. Plus it is supposed to be around 0* or less tomorrow. If I could just get the Dakota to put out a little more heat.
We have around 4-5" of snow on the ground from this morning. It is a wet snow at that. No sense in trying to move it. The 30+ mph winds with gusts to 50 mph will do enough of that. Plus it is supposed to be around 0* or less tomorrow. If I could just get the Dakota to put out a little more heat.
Kendall,Kraiq, i`ll ask you both,i want to make up a new support for the 149 using the 54" blade
and i was trying to get the blade angle (pitch) right so i could angle and not have the blade dig in on the inside!The question i have is if i level the blade where attached will the blade dig in ,or is that what i should try to get?Is the blade to be pitched ahead on the top or bottom? I plan to use the lift arm to help with the depth. Please feel free to add you .02 lol. later Don T
Kraig, Brandon,
That lift bracket was not used on the Original, nor was the external rod as it could interfere with the with the drag link from the steering box to the right front wheel. The Original used the lift rod that goes back the inside of the frame. It has an "eye" on the rear of it that fits over a lug on the tractor lift arm. That lift rod is not straight, but has some slight bends in it for clearance under the tractor. The snow thrower also used the same type of rod, but the two have a different part number. I know there is a subframe, front lift bracket, external rod and the external bracket for the tractor lift rod shown in the TC-82 parts manual for the Original that says it is for the 63 and up, and in the CPE-2 parts manual for 63 and up, but if you look at the part number for the sub frame for that assembly in both parts manuals, it is for the 63 and up 70/100 which has a wider frame than the Original, and the sub frame will not fit the "O". The spring trip blade for the "O" only used the "sleigh" shapped sub frame and internal lift rod to my knowledge, although as the saying goes, with enough welding rod and time, you can make anything fit anything. The "A" frame (the part the front lift bracket is on) on the "O" spring trip blade is narrower than the one on all the other spring trip blades.
That lift bracket was not used on the Original, nor was the external rod as it could interfere with the with the drag link from the steering box to the right front wheel. The Original used the lift rod that goes back the inside of the frame. It has an "eye" on the rear of it that fits over a lug on the tractor lift arm. That lift rod is not straight, but has some slight bends in it for clearance under the tractor. The snow thrower also used the same type of rod, but the two have a different part number. I know there is a subframe, front lift bracket, external rod and the external bracket for the tractor lift rod shown in the TC-82 parts manual for the Original that says it is for the 63 and up, and in the CPE-2 parts manual for 63 and up, but if you look at the part number for the sub frame for that assembly in both parts manuals, it is for the 63 and up 70/100 which has a wider frame than the Original, and the sub frame will not fit the "O". The spring trip blade for the "O" only used the "sleigh" shapped sub frame and internal lift rod to my knowledge, although as the saying goes, with enough welding rod and time, you can make anything fit anything. The "A" frame (the part the front lift bracket is on) on the "O" spring trip blade is narrower than the one on all the other spring trip blades.
Kraig,
Thanks for the posting on the bearing collars for the QA-36A Snow Throwers. My auger needs to move about 1/4" to the right (as viewed from driver's seat). The shaft moves in the left bearing and the set screws can be loosened on the collar, but I had no idea about the eccentric lobes. I was thinking it needed more PB Blaster, Time, and a BFH. I am glad that I was reluctant to try any more persuasion. Thanks again!
Thanks for the posting on the bearing collars for the QA-36A Snow Throwers. My auger needs to move about 1/4" to the right (as viewed from driver's seat). The shaft moves in the left bearing and the set screws can be loosened on the collar, but I had no idea about the eccentric lobes. I was thinking it needed more PB Blaster, Time, and a BFH. I am glad that I was reluctant to try any more persuasion. Thanks again!
Cory
You can get away with 15 inch tires depending on what size you use, here is my first attempt with 15" rims and tires, with the flat fenders on the 102 the tire would rub the fender so I switched to a different fender deck and the tires just cleared the fender.
But I like the looks of Ag tires so I went with this set up instead.
You can get away with 15 inch tires depending on what size you use, here is my first attempt with 15" rims and tires, with the flat fenders on the 102 the tire would rub the fender so I switched to a different fender deck and the tires just cleared the fender.
But I like the looks of Ag tires so I went with this set up instead.
Ken if you look at the post at 10.04 you will see that the brackets on the 42" blade are about 3.25" to center of quick attach on the cub and the 54" for the 1862 are 2" longer.i think if i keep the blade sitting level and square to the front of the cub i will be able to turn the blade without the inside side cutting into the ground. I just need to know if the blade should sit straight up. i plan to make changes in the am to the brackets to get the blade to sit level and square. we will see if this helps . later Don T
