Archive through January 05, 2010

[mstetar]

OK Ive got some questions for those of you who have done the deck baffles before,
1.should i use the same gauge steel that's in there now or thicker?
2.how high should i make them, i was thinking the same height as the blades?
3.should i get them as close to the blade as possible or leave some space?
4. probably an easy one, how would i go about cutting the steel in a nice straight line? ideally i would want one continuous piece correct?
this last one is for anyone with welding experience, i would like to do all this in my basement where its not freezing lol, do i really need to worry about fumes from just the little bit of welding this would require, or should i just take it out into the cold?

 

[jbaker]

Scott the cooling fins are good I will put some MMO in tank and will check the timing but if the exaust valve is stuck, How do i free it up

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff, often when the exhaust valves stick, they will free up on their own after the engine cools. It's possible that it is a stuck exhaust valve but it sounds more like a bad condenser or some other ignition issue to me.

 

[jbaker]

Kraig and all I am starting to think ingition area, The PO put in the push button to crank after you turn the ingition on. A few days before it quit, when starting i had to turn the ingition switch to the crank position while i pushed the button. so i was thinking jumping out the ingition key swith but im not sure what to jump. Also how do i check the timing on it i dont see anything in the manual? i do have a timing lite to use

 

[kphill]

Matt, On your deck baffles, measure from the deck to the blade tip and that should be good for the baffle width. I would go to a local fab or welding shop and have them shear some 1/8" to that width. The sheet of steel is 48" so if they sheared three pieces that would be enough with some left over. Then you can take a car tire or something large and round as a bending jig to get your radius. I would leave about a 1/2" space between the blade and baffle. You can use the extra 1/8" to make the tabs, if you have a vice to bend it in. If not 1/16" will work. As for welding in the house, I don't think anyone would recommend that.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff, for timing it's usually done by setting how far the points open. The specs for the points gap are 0.017 to 0.024".

 

[jmuncie]

1. In my opinion, the stock ones are way too thin. One hit and they're toast. We build some decks for a well known mower manufacturer and their baffles are 3/16", same as the deck shells.
2. I don't know what's optimum, but the ones we build seem to end right about at the cutting height or slightly lower.
3. Again, I don't know what's optimum. I've seen a lot of experimentation over the years. I'd go as close as you're comfortable with, given whatever tolerances you can hold with your skills and tools. They seem to run around 1/8" to 1/4" from the blade on the ones we've built.
4. What cutting tools do you have at your disposal? Zip wheel? Torch? Scratch awl? If you have a torch or plasma, cutting against a piece of angle clamped to the piece you're cutting so that it's offset to the side to put your cut in the right place works great. It's a simple solution but I've found a lot of people who've never seen it or thought of it.

Jerry

 

[jmuncie]

One more thing... Forget the tabs. Stitch weld the baffles in place. Those 3 little tabs per baffle leave the baffle hopelessly trying to hold its shape and stay out of the blade. The deck shell is already there. Use it to support the entire arc of the baffle.

Jerry

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff, here's the electrical schematic for the 1200.

 

[jmuncie]

Here's what the baffles look like in one of the decks we build. This one is just tacked in place, but you can get an idea of how beefy they are.

Jerry

 

[mstetar]

jerry, care to tell us who you make them for? as long as its not d##re i wouldnt feel too bad about mowing with them... look well made!

 

[dzubrzycki]

Can any one tell me what year my cubcadet 107 hydro is Serial number 2050038u326080

 

[mstetar]

aww man... looks like i broke it!

anyways i tore the deck down a little more and found bigger problems, the rear hanger mounts are all cracked and split, the right side one has already been welded in before, but not by me! it looks like they did a good job but the steel on the inside on the weld broke again so its actually not connected to the deck shell but is wedged in place and isnt coming out, the left one is almost cracked all the way around and has several large cracks leading in different directions, now my question is should i drill a hole at the ends of said cracks to keep them from spreading or just weld them up and forget it?

 

[mstetar]

daniel
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/SerialNumbers.htm

 

[kphill]

Matt, Just weld them up. make shure you get the rust off before you weld or you may blow even bigger holes in it. What you have found is pretty common in these old decks.

 

[pfunk]

Jeff B. You can bypass a lot of stuff by just jumping a wire from the + side of the battery to the + side of the coil. That eliminates all the safety switches and ignition switch. But, be careful because if the engine starts you can't kill it without removing the jumper.

 

[dleslie]

I have a question.

On the top of the carb on my Cub 100, there is a small hole on the actuator for the carb. Does a small spring belong here? or what? I took apart the carb and can't remember now, and can't find the spring if there was one. Also, I can't find where it would attach, if there was one, but I want to double check. Thanks. Dave

 

[wcardwell]

Has anyone out ther ever ran a 14hp head on a 10 hp. It looks like its possible if milled down and use the shorter bolts and baffle.?

 

[mgonitzke]

Wayne C.-

The 10, 12, and 14 hp heads are all the same.

<font size="-2">Well, except for the LP head, but that's a different story.</font>

 

[dross]

Matt, No they ain't, What (I think) David L is talking about is the older style head they used shorter bolts with spacers that would bring the bolt head up to the bottom of the tank mount or muffler shield. The later head had extended bosses that made them even with the top of the vains on the head. (no spacers) I think it has more to do with age than HP.