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Archive through February 25, 2011
- Thread starter dtanner
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Paul A., here's a scan of the Brinly Gard-n-Cart installation instructions. Thought you might like to see it. I turned it sideways so I could keep it as big as possible and not make the screen go wide.
Help needed!! I have rebuilt the wire harness for my 125. Brand new battery fully charged. Checked timing 3x, installed new points, plug. It fires great. I completely drained fuel. When I bought this it was a bear to get started but once it did it ran awesome, even started right up when I got home to get it off trailer. Here is the major symptom. when turning over as soon as I crack the throttle the engine does not want to turn over. It will fire with ether but I do not like using that stuff until extreme circumstances. Compression seems good. My next thought is the ACR is stuck or the flyweights are stuck so that it is in full compression hence if you get it running it runs great. I am sorry for long post but have run out of ideas here.
frank l clark
I did give the paint issue some thought . Most rebuilds were painted black I believe and its easy to buy high temp black paint , But I think I will use Cub yellow as Kraig suggested.The yellow will discolour from the heat I know but that won`t be a problem for me . This is a refurb and not a restore so I`am not going to worry about a slight discolour from heat .Yellow or black would both be correct to use on a rebuilt Cub engine. later Don T
I did give the paint issue some thought . Most rebuilds were painted black I believe and its easy to buy high temp black paint , But I think I will use Cub yellow as Kraig suggested.The yellow will discolour from the heat I know but that won`t be a problem for me . This is a refurb and not a restore so I`am not going to worry about a slight discolour from heat .Yellow or black would both be correct to use on a rebuilt Cub engine. later Don T
FRANK - Sorry, Not DON, His wife has him out of the shop where his MAN CAVE and CUB's are.
For most of the engine the normal Cub Cadet 483 yellow works fine. Several others here including me prefer a semi-gloss to gloss black because it keeps the engine looking cleaner over the long haul. All the cooling shrouds stay cool enough the CC yellow holds up fine. Most people don;t paint the carbs because long term exposure to gas lifts the paint, and the coolig fins on the head and block should NOT be painted since paint is an insulator which causes the engine to run hotter and the paint would burn off the cast iron engine cooling fins anyhow. The crankcase protion of the engine can be painted. I leave the diecast alum. blower housing back plate bare alum. for heat dissipation also. And the oil pans can be painted but since it's effective as an oil cooler I normally don't paint them either. Thur the normal operation of the engine the oil pans get covered in oil & oil vapor so on cast iron pans they wont rust which both the oil and rust is an insulator also so I don't see the need to add a third insulator with a coat of paint.
Many have just sprayed on a thin coat of primer and a good coat of CC 483 yellow and their engines have lived a long happy life so whatever you do will work without special paint, just good preparation.
The cooling shrouds on my K321 I built 5 yrs ago I gloss back powder coated and anything else that was steel (gas tank mounting brackets, air cleaner cover & back plate) and they have fantastic durability. I thinned some semi-gloss black hardware store enamel paint to use on the cast iron parts and that has held up fine too.
For most of the engine the normal Cub Cadet 483 yellow works fine. Several others here including me prefer a semi-gloss to gloss black because it keeps the engine looking cleaner over the long haul. All the cooling shrouds stay cool enough the CC yellow holds up fine. Most people don;t paint the carbs because long term exposure to gas lifts the paint, and the coolig fins on the head and block should NOT be painted since paint is an insulator which causes the engine to run hotter and the paint would burn off the cast iron engine cooling fins anyhow. The crankcase protion of the engine can be painted. I leave the diecast alum. blower housing back plate bare alum. for heat dissipation also. And the oil pans can be painted but since it's effective as an oil cooler I normally don't paint them either. Thur the normal operation of the engine the oil pans get covered in oil & oil vapor so on cast iron pans they wont rust which both the oil and rust is an insulator also so I don't see the need to add a third insulator with a coat of paint.
Many have just sprayed on a thin coat of primer and a good coat of CC 483 yellow and their engines have lived a long happy life so whatever you do will work without special paint, just good preparation.
The cooling shrouds on my K321 I built 5 yrs ago I gloss back powder coated and anything else that was steel (gas tank mounting brackets, air cleaner cover & back plate) and they have fantastic durability. I thinned some semi-gloss black hardware store enamel paint to use on the cast iron parts and that has held up fine too.
Timothy; Did you check the point gap three times or static time three times? I have a K341 that was doing that with points set on 20. When i static timed it it started perfect and i checked the gap and it was on 17.
Luther
Luther
