Scott - I had the same issue with my 126 and just kept spraying with PB Blaster and GENTLY tapping it and it finally came off. I also sanded the old paint on the shaft down smooth which also helped. Be gentle with the hammer so as not to wreck the cast piece on the shaft! Good luck.
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Archive through February 22, 2013
- Thread starter thoffman
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
We finally got some snow this winter in KS. We are thankful for the moisture as it has been very dry here the past two years. The weather guessers say this was the second largest snowfall in Wichita in many years.
Seems like no one has been posting any snow action pictures here on the forum lately so I thought I'd share these. My wife took these pictures this morning of the 149 and me pushing snow to clear the driveway and sidewalk. It was up to 12" deep in some places. Special thanks to Matt Gonitzke for resizing these to post for me. Enjoy.
Seems like no one has been posting any snow action pictures here on the forum lately so I thought I'd share these. My wife took these pictures this morning of the 149 and me pushing snow to clear the driveway and sidewalk. It was up to 12" deep in some places. Special thanks to Matt Gonitzke for resizing these to post for me. Enjoy.
Don,
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Tom H. got it right, a nice yellow 582 w/creeper from Polo, IL
I have been without a gear drive for about 6 months, ever since my 100 made it up to Streamwood, so I figured I should have at least one of those gear grinders around again........but I don't feel the world tilting to the gear drive side of things just yet.......
I have been without a gear drive for about 6 months, ever since my 100 made it up to Streamwood, so I figured I should have at least one of those gear grinders around again........but I don't feel the world tilting to the gear drive side of things just yet.......
Steve,
Is Streamwood the "Black Hole" for tractors? I was looking pretty strong at that one myself. Glad to see you got it.
BTW the 168 will not be happening. Working on a different set up now. All you 169'ers <font size="-2">(and to be honest, myself too</font>) can rest knowing this 169 will <u>NOT</u> be disassembled for a project tractor, but will be put back into as new condition.
Is Streamwood the "Black Hole" for tractors? I was looking pretty strong at that one myself. Glad to see you got it.
BTW the 168 will not be happening. Working on a different set up now. All you 169'ers <font size="-2">(and to be honest, myself too</font>) can rest knowing this 169 will <u>NOT</u> be disassembled for a project tractor, but will be put back into as new condition.
Keith,
As Jeremiah and perhaps others have said, I have had my share of issues with ISO mounts. I'll have to defer to the others on the one to two threads showing above the top of the lock nut. However, I do caution you to check to see if those bolts will turn in their holes, once that heavy 16 horsepower engine is mounted on, and bolted to, the engine cradle.
If those bolts turn at all with the fingers, they are too loose, and you will experience excessive vibration when the tractor is running. Loose bolts were causing all kinds of vibration, concern and confusion on my 1250. When I discovered that the ISO mounts were too loose, and tightened them so that they had just a bit of compression, my vibration issues were curtailed.
Thus, from my experience, the one to two thread rule is a good starting point, but it isn't necessarily the end-all of rules. It will take some experimentation to get your ISO mounts set to your tractor.
I wish you all the best on this project.
As Jeremiah and perhaps others have said, I have had my share of issues with ISO mounts. I'll have to defer to the others on the one to two threads showing above the top of the lock nut. However, I do caution you to check to see if those bolts will turn in their holes, once that heavy 16 horsepower engine is mounted on, and bolted to, the engine cradle.
If those bolts turn at all with the fingers, they are too loose, and you will experience excessive vibration when the tractor is running. Loose bolts were causing all kinds of vibration, concern and confusion on my 1250. When I discovered that the ISO mounts were too loose, and tightened them so that they had just a bit of compression, my vibration issues were curtailed.
Thus, from my experience, the one to two thread rule is a good starting point, but it isn't necessarily the end-all of rules. It will take some experimentation to get your ISO mounts set to your tractor.
I wish you all the best on this project.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Tom H - WHEW!!!!! I'm so glad to hear that, and you even said "back into as new". That'll be really great. Are you keeping it?
Keith O - I believe Brian makes some very good points for you. You don't want the bolts so loose that they are not holding the ISO-mounts in place. They need to have some slight compression to begin with not only to hold the rubber ISO-mounts in place but also to keep the ISO-bars themselves from slipping out of place where the rubbers hold them. It's pretty hard to see what you have once the engine is back in place but you'll need to look after some break in period, and then possibly add some slight tightening to insure they are secure. If doing this seems to allow more vibrating movement then you'll have to back them off a little back to where it seems to have the least movement.
There is also another aspect to consider. The engine speed. I believe the service manual for the Q/L's indicates idle speed of 1500 and high speed 3400 under load. I always thought 1500 was to high but believe IH did that to provide at least the appearance of less shaking side to side (or vibration). When you drop the rpm down to about 1000 that engine will appear to be really swinging back and forth (at least with my eyes), and moving the idle up seems to remove that appearance. I usually would shoot for about 1200-1300 for idle on a 14hp or 16hp QL. (It's to bad to since the fixed mount engines can run 800-1000 rpm and not really shake that much). Additionally, if you're mostly going to use your unit for mowing you could install your mower and use that for setting your high speed under load. The PTO clutch belt tension will pull the engine down toward the snubbers and also help reduce the vibrations. So I would try to make sure your snubbers are set up with the proper gap. I don't know where you can find the shims for the snubbers. They are a thin washer shape with a open slotted hole so you can slip them on without removing the snubber. The spec for snubber gap is shown right in the front section of the QL service manual (I don't have one handy or I'd let you know). Good luck with getting it set up, and if you do run the mower for setting the high speed load be really careful where you put your feet. It's hard to get at the carb adjustments with the mower deck in the way and running.
Brian W - I may have forgotten to mention some of the details above for your situation. When you do get to the mowing deck you may find an even more noticable difference in your remaining vibration. And I'm not sure the snubbers were really mentioned much before but they do play a part when using the PTO clutch.
Ron S - you're looking a bit cold in those pics. I'm also thinking they pics should be a bit blurry, or at least a few of them, since you're using a blade you need to have some speed with that first pass on what I think is your sidewalk, especially with that much snow. That is of course, unless you know you have some obstacles that might trip your blade and send you flying over the front of the tractor. Sure hope you had some fun. I know it's to bad you don't get more snow so you can do it more often. Hey, it does look like you have some slacky neighbors (or they are protectin their hearts). You could always get out and do some freelance work.
Keith O - I believe Brian makes some very good points for you. You don't want the bolts so loose that they are not holding the ISO-mounts in place. They need to have some slight compression to begin with not only to hold the rubber ISO-mounts in place but also to keep the ISO-bars themselves from slipping out of place where the rubbers hold them. It's pretty hard to see what you have once the engine is back in place but you'll need to look after some break in period, and then possibly add some slight tightening to insure they are secure. If doing this seems to allow more vibrating movement then you'll have to back them off a little back to where it seems to have the least movement.
There is also another aspect to consider. The engine speed. I believe the service manual for the Q/L's indicates idle speed of 1500 and high speed 3400 under load. I always thought 1500 was to high but believe IH did that to provide at least the appearance of less shaking side to side (or vibration). When you drop the rpm down to about 1000 that engine will appear to be really swinging back and forth (at least with my eyes), and moving the idle up seems to remove that appearance. I usually would shoot for about 1200-1300 for idle on a 14hp or 16hp QL. (It's to bad to since the fixed mount engines can run 800-1000 rpm and not really shake that much). Additionally, if you're mostly going to use your unit for mowing you could install your mower and use that for setting your high speed under load. The PTO clutch belt tension will pull the engine down toward the snubbers and also help reduce the vibrations. So I would try to make sure your snubbers are set up with the proper gap. I don't know where you can find the shims for the snubbers. They are a thin washer shape with a open slotted hole so you can slip them on without removing the snubber. The spec for snubber gap is shown right in the front section of the QL service manual (I don't have one handy or I'd let you know). Good luck with getting it set up, and if you do run the mower for setting the high speed load be really careful where you put your feet. It's hard to get at the carb adjustments with the mower deck in the way and running.
Brian W - I may have forgotten to mention some of the details above for your situation. When you do get to the mowing deck you may find an even more noticable difference in your remaining vibration. And I'm not sure the snubbers were really mentioned much before but they do play a part when using the PTO clutch.
Ron S - you're looking a bit cold in those pics. I'm also thinking they pics should be a bit blurry, or at least a few of them, since you're using a blade you need to have some speed with that first pass on what I think is your sidewalk, especially with that much snow. That is of course, unless you know you have some obstacles that might trip your blade and send you flying over the front of the tractor. Sure hope you had some fun. I know it's to bad you don't get more snow so you can do it more often. Hey, it does look like you have some slacky neighbors (or they are protectin their hearts). You could always get out and do some freelance work.
hi guy and gals. i was out snow blowning llast night with my 1450 it was running great then it started pulseing for a minute our two then died. when i restart it it fires and runs for a second then dies its getting gas plugs wet and it has spark i tried difernt plugs any thoughts on this im stumpped
Harry,
No it will be going to another Foum member. I'll let him make himself known after we meet up on Monday. It's find of funny, I had some serious reservations about taking that 169 apart for a project tractor. That's NEVER happened before, I guess I'm getting soft.
No it will be going to another Foum member. I'll let him make himself known after we meet up on Monday. It's find of funny, I had some serious reservations about taking that 169 apart for a project tractor. That's NEVER happened before, I guess I'm getting soft.
