Archive through February 22, 2013

[dtanner]

Tom Hoffman

I( did have lots of plans to work at my Cubs. This did cost me some time; but I can now move on . I have other fish to fry lol. I`am glad I got this to where it should be . These are great tractors I think. too bad we get led astray some times.but if we never have been led astray then we would have never learnt anything.hehe

 

[kostendorf]

Finally got the ISO frame done and ready to tighten. I read two different ways to do this. Is it leave two threads showing or 20ft.pounds?

 

[bwittman]

Tom,

I have one of those locking screw drivers as well. I find they work a lot better than the wedge style; at least for the projects for which I use it. I am happy to see that there are others who think they work well.

 

[eblake]

tom....i have NEVER been led astray....

 

[kostendorf]

Is there a reason why I should not use studs with locknuts instead of bolts on the oil pan? I'm waiting for the cast iron one to get here then this aluminum one will go to the other page.

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - yup, the video link worked!!!!!
HORRAYYYYYYY for DON

Now if there was just some way for us to smell those Kohler fumes, and understand the Nova Scotia accent, we'd be all set

Keith O - I know you're thinking those studs may make it easier to install, but I really don't see how it would be "that much" easier. Also, I don't like the idea of those studs sticking out past the nut, and your axle possibly angling up and maybe hitting the stud, if an ISO mount fails, or something else were to happen, etc.

 

[mschutz]

Yeah Don T, You finely got it going. Cubtastic!

 

[kostendorf]

Thanks Harry I did not think of that. Even if I cut them off the nylock nuts are taller than boltheads. You probably saved me a big problem some where down the road.

 

[rthomley]

Don T
Good for you, I'm down here in South Texas where
it was 95 degrees yesterday and every so often have been able to read the forum. I was wondering too if it was a carb issue, but thought by now that it would have been ruled out.
I'm missing that snow up home and my 127 blowing or 149 pushing it. Haven't seen any cubs down here.
Hardly any riding mowers either.
Any way, glad to hear it run.

 

[hydroharry]

Keith O - getting those 2 front bolts in is a real pain and more so when you still have the front axle in place. When you do put the bolts in make sure you block that axle so it can't flop around and pinch your fingers. I was worried about how you would get a nylock nut started on a stud from the position you have to put yourself in - and be absolutely certain you didn't have it cross-threaded, since the threads grab as you tighten. Think it's just best to stick with the bolts. One thing you can do is make certain you use the correct length and I'm sorry I don't know what that is. I do know the front bolts are usually 1/8" shorter than the rear, and many times the front won't have the lock washer (probably someone else removed and left them off). Because these bolts often loosen up I do like to use a washer and lock washer. Good luck with your installation.

 

[lpalma]

Nice find on the "o " Lucas Jones...
Bill Jamison,I like the Charger 12 I had. Hydro Harry would approve,as it is a hydro....

Don T. You finger is dirty.Congrats on getting it to run, sounds good.

 

[jboelens]

Dropping off Steve's tractor will work out great, since we are on the way to Indiana to pick up a 72

 

[hydroharry]

Hey Charlie and Kraig - we're getting hit with some off Topic tractor stuff (even tho they're red). I thought you guys were poofing those pics and posts?

Dag-blang spam stuff gettin into a perfectly good site.

Lewis Do-Da - that dirty finger stuff is supposed to be over in the Garage

 

[digger]

Harry B.
Well it is still kinda OFF TOPIC FRIDAY ya know.

We gotta cut'um a little slack now and then, BUT, if it spills over to BACK ON TOPIC SATURDAY, they will get

 

[lpalma]

Thank you Charlie...

Harry Its okay...it was not his middle digit,so it is allowed here.

 

[jchamberlin]

Keith O: Good question regarding the Iso mount bolt/nut. As Brian Wittman can testify, there are differences of opinion on the topic. However, I would follow the advice of engineer Matt Gonitzke and leave two threads showing. The trouble with tightening them down, is that once they are "crushed" their "isolating" function can be compromised. So leave two threads showing and run it for a good period to break them in before considering any other setting. My $0.02

 

[kostendorf]

Jeremiah, That sounds right to me. Thanks for the input and that is what I'll do.

 

[aaytay]

Don-
Way to go man! (And nice job keeping a clear-head in the process, that's the toughest part in situations like this.)

Keith-
Re: iso mount-stud tightness..
YES!

 

[wshytle]

Don-

Now it's time to get that 129 carb back where it belongs...on the 129. You have a "test" machine for the carb you were working with since you now know the 125 is good. Go ahead and clean the carb again, blow it out well, and chase the small holes with a fine wire to make sure they're open. Use ample amounts of carb cleaner since you're having trouble finding a carb soak in the gallon can. It doesn't take that long to install the carb and when you get it right you'll be that far ahead.

Keith O.-

I understand your thoughts on using studs but like Harry said, the front axle will be problematic I think. I use a punch to easily align the pan holes to the frame. The tip is about 3/16" and it tapers back to around 3/8". I set the engine in the frame or on the rails in your case and stick the punch in to align the rear two holes. I twirl the punch to center the hole and the bolt usually goes right in with little problem. Once you have the two rearmost bolts started the two fronts go in pretty easily. Of course this method is only for the two rear holes because of the axle being in the way for the fronts.

Just thought I'd throw this in.

 

[slent]

Hi all,

I have a question. I’ve been disassembling my 126 project tractor for the sand blaster, and I’m having difficulty getting the ‘Arm, clutch and brake pedal’ separated from the Pedal Assy, clutch and brake’ (I refer to the parts by their names in the Cub Cadet parts diagrams).
Basically, it’s the bellcrank that activates the clutch, and the brakes. It is attached to the shaft that is rotated by pressing the clutch/brake pedal. I drove the roll pin out, yet the arm won’t budge. I’ve tried heat with no luck so far. Is this thing pressed on, or should it be a slip fit, just stuck by 43 years worth of corrosion?
Does anybody have any ideas?

Thanks,
Scott