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Archive through February 20, 2010
- Thread starter bjohnson
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
LUCAS - Without looking at the tractor it's impossible for anyone to say for sure if that 782 is an MTD or IHC.
The serial number tag above the left foot rest will say IHC, Chicago, IL on an IHC built tractor. And say CCC, Cleveland, OH. on an MTD built tractor.
The serial number tag above the left foot rest will say IHC, Chicago, IL on an IHC built tractor. And say CCC, Cleveland, OH. on an MTD built tractor.
Lucas J.,
Thank you for the compliment on the 123. It has the narrow wheels/tires up front, 4.80/4.00-8, and the rears are 23 x 8.50-12. Those are a Deestone brand in the rear, they're somewhat of a narrow tire but I like the look of them and the straight lugs.
Thank you for the compliment on the 123. It has the narrow wheels/tires up front, 4.80/4.00-8, and the rears are 23 x 8.50-12. Those are a Deestone brand in the rear, they're somewhat of a narrow tire but I like the look of them and the straight lugs.
My 122 has 23x10.5x12 on the back I prety sure
that is the wrong size and the front wheels are
way to big. Am I correct.
that is the wrong size and the front wheels are
way to big. Am I correct.
rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
LUCAS - I wouldn't pass up any 782. There is nothing wrong with one built by MTD.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Brian:
Just a bit of history....the conventional wisdom on this site - which I do not subscribe to - is to remove balance gears from any Kohler that came equipped with same. As a side note, at some point in the past discussions about this, it was stated that there were documents from Kohler that backed up this action. I have a long standing challenge to supply a copy of said document(s) - so far not met.
My minority opinion on balance gears involves a couple of points:
1: It's not really the gears that are the problem, but the bearings and shafts, which are subject to the quality of maintenance that was provided for the engine.
2: While we are 4000 some strong on this forum, there were millions of that 'ol Kohler design built, most still running WITH balance gears. As a matter of fact, I suspect that it's probably less than a 100 or so members of this forum that
have removed the balance gears, many based on information read here, not as a result of their own actual measurement of the critical wear points. BTW - I do NOT argue the fact that bad bearings in the balance gears can cause catastrophic failure. I do believe that in most cases this failure can be traced to the quality of maintenance....
I've heard honest positions presented here by qualified Kohler mechanics that positively stated to remove the balance gears from any engine being rebuilt...at the opposite end of this are the several like qualified Kohler mechanics who looked at me as though I'd just arrived from the moon when I suggested omitting the gears during a rebuild - although they all backed checking and replacing worn shafts and bearings. The basic opinion was -"that's the way Kohler built it, we give then back to the customer the same way"
So Brian, that's the minority opinion.......
Dennis:
Hydro best, 1x8-1x9 series best looking, balance gears not all bad, hytran good, Shell Rotella good, green paint sucks (except on old 110's)...... How's that for a one sentence barn burner??? Oh - BTW - same place as last year...
Just a bit of history....the conventional wisdom on this site - which I do not subscribe to - is to remove balance gears from any Kohler that came equipped with same. As a side note, at some point in the past discussions about this, it was stated that there were documents from Kohler that backed up this action. I have a long standing challenge to supply a copy of said document(s) - so far not met.
My minority opinion on balance gears involves a couple of points:
1: It's not really the gears that are the problem, but the bearings and shafts, which are subject to the quality of maintenance that was provided for the engine.
2: While we are 4000 some strong on this forum, there were millions of that 'ol Kohler design built, most still running WITH balance gears. As a matter of fact, I suspect that it's probably less than a 100 or so members of this forum that
have removed the balance gears, many based on information read here, not as a result of their own actual measurement of the critical wear points. BTW - I do NOT argue the fact that bad bearings in the balance gears can cause catastrophic failure. I do believe that in most cases this failure can be traced to the quality of maintenance....
I've heard honest positions presented here by qualified Kohler mechanics that positively stated to remove the balance gears from any engine being rebuilt...at the opposite end of this are the several like qualified Kohler mechanics who looked at me as though I'd just arrived from the moon when I suggested omitting the gears during a rebuild - although they all backed checking and replacing worn shafts and bearings. The basic opinion was -"that's the way Kohler built it, we give then back to the customer the same way"
So Brian, that's the minority opinion.......
Dennis:
Hydro best, 1x8-1x9 series best looking, balance gears not all bad, hytran good, Shell Rotella good, green paint sucks (except on old 110's)...... How's that for a one sentence barn burner??? Oh - BTW - same place as last year...
HEY KENDELL! Only thing in your ENTIRE post I'd question, well maybe TWO things..... I think there's more people than 100 from this forum that remove the balance gears.
It would be interesting to ask people like Dave Kirk how many Kohler's He's balanced.. He did My K321, and will do My K241, whenever I get it rebuilt....it's been apart on the engine stand for three years now. I'm "Letting the BLOCK age!"
Ohhhh... NO green paint here....anywhere! EVER. Not negotiable!
It would be interesting to ask people like Dave Kirk how many Kohler's He's balanced.. He did My K321, and will do My K241, whenever I get it rebuilt....it's been apart on the engine stand for three years now. I'm "Letting the BLOCK age!"
Ohhhh... NO green paint here....anywhere! EVER. Not negotiable!
If I get my big old lazy butt moving this year I hope to prep and paint a 122 that I disassembled last summer. I was hoping to do the work myself since I hope to get to the 102 at some point as well. Does anyone know of a good resource for proper procedures and processes to take when prepping and painting Cub Cadets?
Richard, I would like to get my 122 restored before I get another but geting a 782 will definitly be nexed.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
L. William:
The same procedures as used with any automotive bodywork..Hang around your local supplier or stop in a body shop and ask questions. Follow all recommendations from the manufacturers of the supplies (paint, primer, filler...) that you buy. Try to stay with the same brand on primer and paint.. Don T. is the current expert in this area - right Wilbur??
The same procedures as used with any automotive bodywork..Hang around your local supplier or stop in a body shop and ask questions. Follow all recommendations from the manufacturers of the supplies (paint, primer, filler...) that you buy. Try to stay with the same brand on primer and paint.. Don T. is the current expert in this area - right Wilbur??
mgwin
Well-known member
OK guys, I have a very unusual question. I am in the process of restoring a 70, and I have come across a dilema.
On the left side (sitting on the tractor) of the dash tower, a charge indicator is mounted. It is an IH charge indicator. I looked it up in the 70 parts manual, and a indicator IS listed. I am also planning to install lights on this tractor, but the indicator is in the way of where the switch is supposed to go. Is the charge indicator in the wrong place? It seems to be in the right place according to the holes. I can't find a single photo of a 70 with a charge indicator on it. Also, there is no hole where the light switch is supposed to go. Any and all help (including photos) would be appreciated!
On the left side (sitting on the tractor) of the dash tower, a charge indicator is mounted. It is an IH charge indicator. I looked it up in the 70 parts manual, and a indicator IS listed. I am also planning to install lights on this tractor, but the indicator is in the way of where the switch is supposed to go. Is the charge indicator in the wrong place? It seems to be in the right place according to the holes. I can't find a single photo of a 70 with a charge indicator on it. Also, there is no hole where the light switch is supposed to go. Any and all help (including photos) would be appreciated!
tdaugherty
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- Tim Daugherty
Thanks to all of you guys. My 124 is back to running, and better than ever. I cleaned the entire fuel system, and rewired the coil and got a new condenser. Still needs an oil change bad, but at least its runnin fine now. Thanks to everyone for your help!
tdaugherty
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- Tim Daugherty
Marty G,
The indicator is in the right place. The light switch goes on the left side of the panel. I have a 70 myself, although its a project like your doing now. The switch goes on the left side on the panel below where it says "CUB CADET". Newer cadets had the switch below the left hood latch.
The indicator is in the right place. The light switch goes on the left side of the panel. I have a 70 myself, although its a project like your doing now. The switch goes on the left side on the panel below where it says "CUB CADET". Newer cadets had the switch below the left hood latch.
tdaugherty
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- Tim Daugherty
Hey everyone, i have a question concerning the front wheels on my 124. I pulled it out of my garage a few hours ago, and the RF lug bolt fell out. Thankfully the tire didnt come off the hub, so there is no damage. I replaced the tires last September, and the newer tires i put on it have smaller rims, but the shafts go through the hub with no problem. I tightened the bolts, so i dont see why the RF lug would come loose like it did? Should i put the old rims back on? Any tips or help is appreciated! Thanks!
Tim K.
If you can't move them by hand, you might have to go for the carb cleaner or lacquer thinner route, just to make sure there's not some gunk on the shafts.
Personally, I've never seen such a mess! LOL
Just curious though. Did you change the fluid in there when you got the tractor?
If you can't move them by hand, you might have to go for the carb cleaner or lacquer thinner route, just to make sure there's not some gunk on the shafts.
Personally, I've never seen such a mess! LOL
Just curious though. Did you change the fluid in there when you got the tractor?
Tim D.
Going through the wheel doesn't really cut it unless it goes through enough for the washer not to run on the wheel hub.
Cub wheels let the spindle stick out just enough, that when you tighten the bolt, the washer hits just the end of the spindle and not the wheel.
Might be something to check.
Going through the wheel doesn't really cut it unless it goes through enough for the washer not to run on the wheel hub.
Cub wheels let the spindle stick out just enough, that when you tighten the bolt, the washer hits just the end of the spindle and not the wheel.
Might be something to check.
