Archive through February 20, 2010

[dross]

Don T, Frank, Late last summer I spoke up for a tractor off these classified, between scheduling problems it was a good month before I got down there, I called, I e-mailed, everything was ready. I got in my truck leave and the darn thing wouldn't start. It's never not started, I couldn't believe it. One of the hardest calls I ever made, that didn't involve a death, was telling the seller I couldn't make it. Everything turned out okay, eventually. Whatever can go wrong will.
Marty, I got nothing

 

[mgwin]

Charlie,
Soooo, you're saying I need to move that scudder around to the front.

 

[digger]

Just in case anyone wanted to know where that info is from.

 

[digger]

Yepper,
It goes right under the steering wheel and just above the beer tap!

BUT!
I'll add this,
It's your tractor, you do what ya want to with it. The correct police ain't gonna jump on you for leaving it right where it's at!

 

[mgwin]

Charlie,
I don't know, that's gonna put it down on the start button and key switch pretty good.

 

[digger]

Personally I don't see a thing wrong with where it's at.
I always did think that putting it under the steering wheel would only leave scars on your shins.

 

[mgwin]

Charlie,
What about the right side? I could drill three holes on the right and one hole on the left (for the light switch), Or..... drill one hole on the right for the light switch. You think anyone would whip me for putting the switch on the right?

 

[mgonitzke]

L. William-

To add to what Kendell said, painting is 80% prep work, 10% skill, and 10% luck. If you want to do it right, strip everything down to bare metal by sandblasting, paint stripper, electrolysis, etc. and treat all of the metal with a rust converter right before priming. I personally believe that any and all paint should be removed from surfaces other than cast iron, as sandblasting rearends isn't a good idea and you can never get that red epoxy stuff completely off with stripper or a wire wheel. Keep in mind that any rust that isn't removed will come back, hence the complete cleaning of everything and the rust converter treatment.

And after you do all of that, do yourself a favor and buy some halfway decent paint and primer. Use hardener. Rattle can paint may look nice initially but will not last. Last summer, I restored a 100, and the details of the restoration appear on the website in my signature line. There are a lot of pictures in there that show how my paint booth area was set up.

 

[digger]

Marty G.
Like I said, do what ya want, it's yours.

 

[dfrisk]

MARTY G. - DAD & I put an amp gauge & lights on our CC 70 back in about '66 or '67 using those exact same instructions Charlie posted. The only thing mounting the amp gauge where Charlie shows on the CCO is protecting the ignition switch key from being broken off in the switch at the peril of of having stitches required in your shins. Mounting the gauge on the right side of the column/console puts it in the way of the PTO lever. Like Charlie says, I;d leave it where it is!

We mounted our gauge exactly where Your's is, then drilled another 1/2" dia. hole slightly lower for the light switch. Per the instructions your gauge needs another hole for the gauge wires about where your "X" is, and the light switch goes in the hole your wires are coming thru.

I also found with my CC 72 that the plastic cap from a spray can of CC Yellow paint makes a nice cover for the wiring & gauge on the bottom of the gauge bracket. Use grommets ANYWHERE wires run against edges of holes drilled, and use fuses on ANY circuit hot wire.

I had a push/pull light switch burn up one night on my CC 72 while doing fall yard work. I guess that's what I get for running my lawn vac from Noon till 2 AM the next day!