• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through February 15, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Ok, everyone has seen my little 122 rattle trap out in the field, nothing sophisticated to say the least. With what everyone has suggested to me and what I have read, the Cub plows pretty well now but there are a few things I'd like to improve.

I bought a set of Tru powers to replace the old rotted tires but ended up losing ground clearence, maybe an inch or more(same tire size, just different profile). A little too much trash and it will high point really quick. Maybe I'll play with the turfs and chains to see if the extra clearance helps any. Maybe loading the turf tires and 86 the weights on the furrow side to eliminate the overhang issue would help. Any other suggestions?

Also, the hitch pin for the plow has to go. That long pin starts to collect trash and amplifies my ground clearance issue by holding trash under the tractor. This would be a cheap first course of action and will definately be done this spring.

Just trying to come up with some improvements before spring time.

Marlin- a few pictures for ya.

114772.jpg


114773.jpg


114774.jpg
 
having a little trouble with a k321 po replaced crank and piston/rod, I was told that when he started the motor it jumped the front wheels off the ground. I have looked inside and the cam and crank are lined up on the marks. I would appreciate any ideas to remedy this problem. thanks josh
 
more parts ready for prime. many to go before paint lol. Later Don T
old.gif

114794.jpg
 
Don-
Looking good..

Is that loader one of those P.F. Engineering ones?

If so, did you build it? I'm curious how you like it...
 
Brian B.
Field trash can be a problem if your plow is not set up for it.
As seen in the photo below the field I am plowing is full of cornstalks that where mowed off with a sicle mower just a couple of hours earlyer.
The gentalman in front of me on the Ford with the 2 bottom plow was having more problems plugging up than I was.

114797.jpg
 
can i get some input on a 1100 cub i saw in the identification page that it has a different rear end and debateable weather or not its actually a garden tractor is it a hydro or gear drive hp all that would be great info
thanks
 
Art A , yes that is the loader from plans from PF Engineering and i love to use it. I have plans to install my 54" blade on the frame and have power angle for next winter. Weather guessers say we are in for some more snow Thursday. I have a tone of work to do the loader as i want foot control also.I found i didn`t have enuf arms to run the loader and Cub at the same time . lol I think i will prime the bucket and start the uprights in the AM. Later Don T
old.gif
 
Here the next IH tractor I am hopeing to pick up.
114805.jpg

114806.jpg

114807.jpg


Looks to need a bit of tinkering here and there.
 
I know there is a Point Saver for sale, but I heard something about a PointSlayer a while back. Can the timing be adjusted with this type. I started the tractor today and its running pretty erratic with all its missing. I think I've got a condenser issue but figured why not upgrade now.
Also is there a base setting for the carb screws? I've got a '62 K161S 662101 Spec 28542E
 
Just thought I should post about my long journey with my mod 125 front PTO clutch.
To recap I had started with a new rebuild kit and it would not release. I took it apart umteem times sanded the clutch plate and the back of the clutch assembly. I changed back to my old pressure spring after it appeared the new one had bent. Checked and rechecked and pestered the heck out of everybody. Now the good news after reading a reply by Thomas B. he suggested that I check the three small compression springs on the screws to be sure they were ok. I have changed most everthing already so I just went ahead and ordered three springs and reassembled the clutch. Partially assembled the clutch felt more springy (no pun here) enough that I put the old springs back on for a moment just to compare. Yup the new ones felt noticably better. I installed the clutch today and it had just a minute drag so I did as Dennis F. suggested I ran the thrower to see if it would seat in. It took only a few minutes and all the drag is gone. So I am back in business throwing snow.
thumbsup_old.gif

I never imagined those springs did as much as they do. On closer examinatiom you can see that the spring on the right is shorter than the other old springs and the new spring is taller/stronger than all of them. Thanks to everybody who offered suggestions.
114809.jpg

114810.jpg

114811.jpg
 
Forgot to ask this question.
I just replaced the ignition switch with what I believe is the correct one. It has two male push on type terminals. The key is a a peg with two wings basicly. The problem I am having is strange. On is off and off is on. The key moves 90 degrees. Straight up and down is the only position the key can be removed and this is also the on position. Turned clockwise 90 degrees (key turned side to side)is the off position and the key can not be removed.
Is there a way to change this or is this switch made wrong?
 
Brian,

You need to do this.....

114820.jpg
 
As I have mentioned in the past I am interested in getting a plow & disc setup and/or tiller. I've never used discs before and I'm not sure about what all hookups are needed like what would I need to hook this up to a 129: brinly 4' disc and would a 129 be able to pull it ok? Seems most I have seen on here have just a single row of discs, this one has 2 is the proper term tandem?
 
Hey Mark Broz...If you're looking for a seat for your Model 70, try the auction site. Search under "cub cadet seat". The problem with most of the original pan seats for the early "Original" and early 70 series cadets is that they cracked around the center. This was caused by weight shifting too much and the center of the pan seat being attached at only the center point. I happen to have a non-original seat that will fit your Model 70 (it came off my Model 73). If you're interested in it email me...WELCOME Mark...Elliott
 
Brennan Hoyt (Bhoyt) what year Cub Cadet and model do you ? I have 8 Cubs and they don`t take that style key. I think you have the switch wired wrong also.Please let us know what model Cub you have . Later Don T
old.gif
 
Tristan Stewart (Tstewart) I have hauled 2 sets with my 129 so you should be able to as well.I use a large weight on the second set and have not had a problem towing it to cut up the (sod) soil. just my .02
 
I've got a '62 Original. The key switch only has two terminals, so it can't be wired wrong. The switch I took out had two terminals also but they where not push on, they had a screw. Also the key looked more like a key. It had teeth on one side. I when with the new switch because the new wiring harness used push on terminal for the switch and every other connection was perfect. I would have had to cut the terminals off the new harness and I didn't want to do that to a otherwise perfect fit harness, so I changed the switch. The new switch part# is PN/IH-403562-R2
 
Brennan, here is the part number for the Original key switch: IH-365522-R92. The contacts should be open when the key switch is in the "Off" position and closed when the key switch is in the "On" position.
 
I was wondering if the cab on my cub is indeed a cub cab? Say that ten times fast!!
 
James, good to hear that you have your PTO clutch issue figured out! Kudos to Thomas B. for suggesting the three springs.
beerchug.gif


Matt S., the 1100 has a drive shaft to a right angle gear box which has a belt drive to a cheap 4 speed transaxle. No cast iron rear end in the 1100.

114823.jpg


114824.jpg
 
Back
Top