Archive through February 14, 2012

[bjamison]

Harry,

10-4 on the hydro lever. I have the gas tank in a box and I also have the side panels.

Right now I'm working the deck hardware from the 44C to the 44A shell. I'm having a heck of a time just getting the bolts off the blades! Soaking them with PB Blaster and using an impact wrench.

Thanks!
Bill

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG, HARRY - If I remember correctly, the Gernade Gears are located in the top front Right corner of the crankcase as the engine is mounted in a CC, closer to the S/G in most CC's.

I suspect there may be some busted up gears in that engine, looks like the rod took a good poke at the camshaft just after going past bottom dead center in it's rotation. The big cam drive gear on the frt of the camshaft actually drives the first gernade gear and that gear drives the second gear.

Just another example of why most people pull the gernade gears when they have an engine apart. Be interesting to see what shape the GG's are actually in.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, I don't recall where I stashed the innerds from that block.

They might be in a box in the shed lean-to waiting for me to throw them out... Now that I removed the part for Don, I believe the only remaining parts in the block are the valves. The deep sump oil pan from the K321 is on a K241 that is at David Kirk's. David rebuilt it for me adding a long dipper on the rod so we could use the deeper oil pan. It's not an all out Killer Kohler build but it should be a VERY strong K241.

It's been finished for several months now, just waiting for me to go on a road trip to pick it up.

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - I remember on the K241 I rebuilt to put in the #72 that I had to cut the rod dipper off about 1/4 inch so it would clear the flat bottom oil pan. Not sure if I got a K301 12 HP rod or what, but I liked the idea of the rod getting to the very bottom of the pan.

I need to get that K241 rebuilt & running again. SON's going to want it to mow with this spring. Let me know when you make that road trip, I might try to meet up with you in FDL.

 

[dtanner]

Kraig
Those parts would make my 125 complete as posted. I don`t have a clue yet where I stashed some clips to hold the throttle cable ,but I think they will show up. I have to install the head this am and super steer bearing .
My dip stick has been welded before. I think it should be spread apart in the center so it holds the stick fast. it is sloppy now , I think spreading that space will shorten the length of its reach.I see near the top where a little dab of weld should hold the top cover in place.

 

[hydroharry]

Matt - thanks for the clarification. The dis-advantage I have is not having worked on or having knowledge of other brands of tractors or for that matter the 82 series and newer (except for limited time on an 1872). I really wish Richard would report back on his situation.

Donald T - not really sure how far back together you've got your 125 but as long as the wires aren't all painted up it shouldn't be to difficult to trace the wires by their color coding and the connector marks on the back of the switch.

(Don T under edit - I'd definitely get a replacement dipstick).

Jeremiah - not sure I have a gift. I certainly try hard, and I'm anxiously awaiting your thread to read the whole story.

Bill - I assume you're referring to the large nuts hold the blades onto the spindles. They can be a real bear. I didn't have the advantage of an impact wrench so I was forced to use a 3' pipe added to a 3/4" drive rachett, and a blocking device to hold the deck itself from sliding around. You might want to note the Operator Manual advises geasing the threads upon installing the nut, and then covering the end of the threads after the nut is retorqued (or without looking back at the manual it said smething to this effect).

Dennis and Kraig - I can't wait for Kraig to report back on the GGs. Maybe they are still in the correct position?

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die

 

[sblunier]

 

[dtanner]

This should work !

 

[kmcconaughey]

Harry, I don't think the GGs are still in the block. I'll have a closer look this evening.

Denny, will do, I see a road trip shaping up for sometime this spring... BTW, the rod in my K241 is sourced from the Kohler Magnum series. It's P/N 7-03852. Seeing that there is no forged rod available for the K241 this was a good option.

 

[messary]

Donald,
I was reading through some of the posts and have to agree with Matt. You have a bad switch - actually two bad swiches so it seems. When the key is in the on positon, the switch sends power to the coil. When turned to start, it should keep power to the coil, and another terminal on the switch sends power to the solenoid to spin the starter/generator. If you are losing power to the coil when trying to start, the switch is bad. I have had this happen a couple times, and like you, had a spare switch that was bad also. Get a new switch meant for your machine and you should be good to go. Just my two cents.