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Archive through February 14, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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digger

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Digger
John R.
If you have pics, fire'um off to me and I'll add them to the page.
Thanks again.
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This got archived, but I think it should be here again.
John R.
Well done man, I didn't get a chance to read it all yet. I was in a rush to get it added to the FAQ page before some KENTUCKY goof posted that it should be!
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CLICK HERE
 
I'm sorry Digger, but I don't have any pictures, other than what is available in the parts breakdown. I don't have a digital camera, either. If I did, I'd love to write this up as a bona-fide work instruction. Maybe I'll look into purchasing a digital camera soon? Right now, the 169 and building a pumphouse are taking my $$.

Thanks,

John-David Reaves, Bynum, AL
 
My last posting on yesterday's forum might have been overlooked, as it was posted as the forum was closed out. Besides my thanks to Digger and Ken, I asked if anyone has ever installed a float lock button. If you did, how did you do it without damaging the button assembly?

I am working tonight in an Emergency Operations Center. My working hours are 1700 to 0500, or 5:00PM to 5:00AM for the non-world time folks. It's only half a day, if you look at it positively!

John-David Reaves, Bynum, AL
 
John-David, which EOC are you operating? A natural disaster?
 
I work for the Department of the Army, at Anniston Army Depot, in Anniston, AL. We work with National, State, and local EOC's and Disaster Services, and Law Enforcement Agencies, to respond to any type of problem. We also act as 24/7/365 contact point of contact for our deployed civilian employees (yes, there are civilian blue collar and white collar employees over there, too), as well as the Depot Commander and higher commands. Usually, we have the most trouble with tornadoes here in Alabama. They can drop out of a thunderstorm in a second, destroy things in seconds, and take lives, if people are not properly warned in time to take shelter. That is part of what we do.

Thanks for asking,

John-David Reaves, Bynum, AL
 
A minor puzzler on my Cub 73: The gear-shift lever operates with the H-pattern OK, however, it also can be spun around 360 degrees. I've had the housing off, but have no reference to see what is or isn't happening inside. It's just sort of a pain to have your gear shift level pointing in any and all directions at any given time.
 
L.D., you have either a sheared pin in there or the cup has cracked around the shift lever. Here's some photos that show how to remove the shift lever from the housing. And some that show a cracked or broken cup. There is also a pin pressed into the housing that the slot in the cup rides on, it's possible that this pin has broken out. The top 3 photos and removal techniques posted by Ted Shushereba (Master scribe...Keeper of the Scrolls) (Tshushereba) on Thursday, June 17, 1999 - 08:11 pm. Here's what Ted wrote:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

When I started to work on my first original I had a roll pin that was partially broken, and had to repair it. On my second tractor, I decided to take some pictures of the repair.

The pin inside is a roll pin, the one outside is a tapered pin-so be careful abour which way you remove it. After I removed the tapered pin, I took a small "C" clamp and put it inside the "H" pattern. Then I took a block of wood and a brake adjusting tool to put some force on the cup, then used a ball pien hammer to tap around the cup to force it loose. The cup is hardened, so you won't hurt it if you are careful. It also only goes back one way, so make sure you reinstall it correctly. Neither of mine were tack welded.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

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I forget who posted this photo.
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I think this next one was posted by Art A.
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This is just a cross section view from a service manual.

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Hey, Kraig

Do you know what the "scrolls" were in the first place? I always wondered. If it was IH cub cadet part drawings, wouldn't they still be proprietary property of MTD?
 
Craig, good question, I always wondered about that myself.
 
Kraig, Thanks for the input; one question.. is there actually supposed to be a tack weld in there holding things in place? I kinda suspect the cup may be cracked on mine; it moves all over the place.
L. D.
 
My 123 came with carrier shown in the photo. Can I get away with drilling holes and installing pins to hold the mower deck, or would I better off finding a factory built carrier with pins?

79588.jpg
 
Matt H.-

You should be able to do that; I have gone the other way and knocked pins out to make a QA subframe out of a non-QA subframe. I just hope that isn't hardened. For some reason I think it might be. Check that out before you drill hole in it. If it isn't hardened, it'll be fine.
 
Thanks Matt. Dumb question now: Is there a quick way to know if the steel in question has been hardened?
 
Matt H.-

Well, you can simply try drilling it, and if it doesn't work and destroys your drill bit, then it's hardened. You can also attempt to file an edge of it. If the file doesn't remove anything, it's probably hardened. If you just attempt drilling you'll know pretty fast if it's hardened or not.
 
L.D., the cup with the slot should be welded to the shift lever. The retainer that is being pried out in the photos is not tack welded in it is just a tight press fit. In my first post when I referenced the "cup" I was referring to the piece that is welded to the shift lever that has a slot in it. I see that Ted referred to the retaining part as a cup. Sorry for the confusion.

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I was talking with my brother in law about this the other day and am interested in some feedback from the forum:

Suppose you have a 1450 and a 1650. You want to put a loader with power steering on one and a tiller on the other.
Which tractor would be best for which impliment and why?


<font size="-2">Under Edit: For those who wander 'across the street' I hope you don't mind that I posted the same question over there too.</font>
 

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