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Archive through February 11, 2017

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Hello everyone
I have read and reread the write ups, if Mike can help me out I will go that route. I very lucky to have so many knowledgeable people at my fingertips. As I sit here thinking about my 1650 it is snowing like a hard reminder. Thank everyone one again on the help I will keep you posted. Thanks again
 
Quinn, Digger's right. It probably snapped inside the cable sheathing. If you pull or push the choke nothing happens on the carb right?

On the 122, another buddy and I tried to pull it out with his 1250 a few years earlier. His turfs didn't do much and we left it. Remembering it was there and the owner still liked me(which can be a feat in itself) we got the other guy's 125, with ags, and I used an 8 foot 2x4 and some repeated "persuasion" with the 125 and pulled her to the road.
"Ran when I parked it." About 1980, this was 2006/7 the second go round. Had a 3 point, creeper and hydraulic lift. Engine was ventilated unfortunately, and had an issue with trans somehow. Some fun times!
 
If we wanted to talk plow day happenings I remember some funny incidents at Travis's. Last time I plowed with my Case 220 when it sucked oil in the cylinder and smoked the field. So, I switched and saved!
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I like plowing with my quiet lines much better. Have had plenty of seat time on several models, and Kraig, Ethan and Marlin will be happy to know some of my best plowing was with my buddy's 125!
 

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Snow here again in the north east...I think I want to invest in a plow for my 125,to compliment my qa36
 
Having said that what's the consensus of being able to adapt a wide frameQL plow to an older narrow frame.a friend of mine has a plow for a QL that he says I can have but I don't know how easily it could adapt to my 125
 
Ethan K. I just took a wide frame subframe and moved the mounting brackets back to fit the narrow frame (125) and welded them in place. Then to hold the back in place I welded a small piece to hold the back arms closer together. Ian currently has it at his place. I re-convert it back this summer so he can use the blade on his 582.
 
So Marlin from what you say it's extremely doable then just gotta fire up the welder
 
Hey Marty, you and all the other gear heads out there can just skip rite over this one,,,
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I've had these hats off for a while now, valves came from my parts 1250, had big oLe glob of "solder" on top of Valve to prevent button from leaking,,,
Following the faq#55 figured I'd give the rebuild a go. Sponsors above CCSpecilities sale the rebuild kits, mention the small rubber o-ring on the inside sponsor will likely send that as well.

As far as removing hats, if you have no access to lathe then use any method you feel comfortable w/,,, just think "minimal frustration"

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The faq page shows "auto hydraulic relief" rebuild,,,
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I've never seen Auto Relief Valves,,,?!?,,?!?,,, but anyway these 2 Manual Relief Valves have different internal's and a Different Size internal o-ring as well,,,

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With hats off, button/plunger drops right out, now you have access to the leaking o-ring.

Before installing new internal o-ring maybe soak a piece of scotch brite in ultraction and shine all the dirt off button/plunger area above o-ring where all the dirt and crud accumulate causing buttons to become "stuck" in the down position,,, also a small pipe cleaner soaked in Hydro oil as well works Good for cleaning crud from button hole in valve body,,,

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A nice warm "work shop" would probably be a better scenario for rebuilding valves, this task can be somewhat cumbersome in 16 degree weather w/ numb finger tips,,,

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Stripping a piece of welding lead makes a good welding ground, Prevents arc marks from using ground clamp directly on Valve body or even grounding through vice will sometimes leave arc marks on work piece,,,

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Using the GTAW/tig process w/ no filler these small 20amp "skin tacks" will not provide sufficient strength to prevent Valve hats and Valve internals from exploding down into hydraulic charge pump under normal working pressures.

Quoting faq #55a (YOU DON’T WANT THE VALVE TO COME APART AND PIECES GOING DOWN INTO THE HYDRO)

Therefore, "Minimal Frustration" at this point is to completely fuse weld hat to valve body versus crimping or "trying" to add filler during the tacking process.

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Out of the fire, into the Ultraction!!!

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Remove from Ultraction, Remove ALL external o-rings and install ALL the New external o-rings that came w/ rebuild kit,,,

Now another dunk in Ultraction and with tool of choice spin Buttons round and round and round and up and down and,,, round down round up down up round to get the internal o-ring & Valve body internals Saturated with hydro oil,,,

Install Fresh Rebuilt Valves and Run that Hydro WOT on closest county rd or st route,,,
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Jason,

"Minimal Frustration": The act of operating a gear drive instead of a leaking, valve sticking, o ring blowing hydrostatic!
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Before Harry or anyone gets too upset, I'm just kidding, they both have their advantages/disadvantages.

I would take any Cub Cadet over any other type of GT any day!
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