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Archive through February 11, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Dang Bug! I had a feeling it was gonna get me!

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Can anyone tell me the width and thickness of either of the lift arms in these pictures? #4 in the first picture. #3 in the second picture.

Thanks,

Rob
 
I replaced the brake pads on grandson's 1250 and they look great. Unfortunately, they're actually a little too thick, so I can't get them in place - the rotor can't fit between them. What's the best way to shave off just a tad? I bought 'em from CC Specialties but I'm not sure what they're made of, so I don't know if I need to worry about "toxic" dust.
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Rob Fuller (Rfuller) a 149 wide frame lift rod is what you need . got that from your pro. I could Measure mine but i`am sure some other guys have the length. Later Don T
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Greg Lippert (Glippert) well now did you clean the routers of all rust and i see most wear on the leading edge. just my .02
 
Don T - Thanks. I actually haven't cleaned the rotors at all yet - just tried slipping the brake assemblies into place to see how the new pads work. I'll get the rotors cleaned up good and it'll probably be a perfect fit.

Since I got your ear - or your eye - do you (or anyone else) have any pointers/do's/don'ts for the fiberglass dash repair? I need to fix the ledge that the hood rests on, both on the 1250 and the 782. I've done a basic flat surface repair on an old push mower deck years ago, but I care a lot more about this one so I want to do as good of a job as I can. Any and all advice is welcome.
 
Ok hears the deal...I have a stack of timed decks coming want to put the best of parts into one to put on my 73. I know they were optional on the 70 so should work on the 73. I've looked at the parts look up and found the right mule drive but I'm not sure the pile has the right part although one was off a 70. Can or has anyone used a regular type mule drive with a timed deck ?
 
Dustin Sacksteder
you are right about the head photo. For some reason I was thinking there was a slight dish over the piston area.
 
Brennan H., looking very good there. Awesome job on the mower deck! Please keep the photos coming.
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Nick, are any of THESE, OR THESE, OR PERHAPS THESE photos that I posted last fall when I was working on my Original, what you are looking for?
 
Rob F.-

1/2" by 1.5" if I remember right...I can check my drawings when I get back from class tonight...
 
Kraig, exactly what I needed, thank you. BTW, is your cast piece drilled for a cotter pin. Mine isn't. I was expecting it to be drilled like the one on my 149. Thanks, Nick
 
Brennan,
Looking good!!!I hope one day my 123 and 70 will look that good
Jason
 
Thanks everyone for the complements.
How do the headlights get turned on? I have a original headlight wiring harness coming, but I don't think there is any type of switch with it. Do the headlights just run all the time? Do I need a 3 position key switch?
 
Almost forgot to ask. I haven't been able to find the correct head lights. I have the brackets but no lights. I looking for something of the shelf thats close. Any suggestions?
 
BRENNAN - Early CC headlights were controlled by a simple push-pull switch. On early CC's You had to drill the hole for the switch but on later models there was a hole already punched with a steel plug installed.
I know Kraig has pic's of His K-4-K Cub to show the location.
 
Brennan H., here's the lights info.

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Click HERE for the complete headlight instructions.

Nick, no hole for the cotter key in the upper cast piece on my Original's rear lift.
 
Matt, here's some photos of a Grote tail lamp. BTW,the Grote tail lamp that was used on the 70/100 is the same one that was used on the Original.

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Brendan B
The mule drive for a timed deck on a 70 is different than the mule drive used with the cast iron end decks normally found/used on the 70. The timed deck mounts for that bolt to the side of the frame on the 70 are also different than the ones used on the Original.
 
Thanks Kraiq , i see what i will have to do in the am Friday. Don`t have to look a thing up.
So good to be here! Later Don T
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