Archive through February 08, 2009

[bcarl]

Ok, before someone reams me for an incorrect year on my 147s - They are both late 1970 makes, not 1972. The 147 model was discontinued in 1971.

 

[jbliler]

Dustin, A head can be sanded flat many times. You need a FLAT piece of glass 12"by12" is nice. Now 400 grit WET sandpaper {autobody} is about right. With aome water on the paper you can scoot the head around a bit. If you get a even amount of removal you are in good shape. Won't take much if your head is in good shape.
I am running a 7-hp head with very little of the raised area for the gasket left. Just better compression

 

[jbliler]

Is there a spec number chart anywhere for cub engines. I need the spec number for a 782 with series two engine. Having a BAD time finding a set of .020 over pistons.

 

[mgonitzke]

Jerry-

M18 pistons should work. KH-52-874-14 for .020" over.

These are expensive, even wholesale ( http://tewarehouse.com/5287414-S ) I don't even want to know what Cub Cadet wants for them. The KT-17 II that was in my 782 was rebuild and threw a rod; too bad I think it took a chunk out of one of the pistons because they are .020 over and had probably 10 hours on them...rings weren't even seated yet...

 

[dfrisk]

JERRY B. - The K241 I put 1400 hours on had a warped head, blown head gasket. I took it to the engine shop that did the machine work on the rest of the engine and they machined the head on the same machine they did car/truck engine heads on. It was so warped they took almost all the quench area away over the piston to get it flat. Maybe that's why that engine ran so good.
I never had to replace that head gasket until I took the engine apart for the rebuild last year. I re-torqued it a couple times because it would whistle sometimes when I'd start the engine when it was cold. Wouldn't leak when it was hot however.

 

[tbower]

james mac, your having a hard time with that pto. you said you hit it with a malet and it went in. i would say that you had the set screws on top of the bearing so when you hit it, it bottomed out on the snap ring. you should have tightened up the set screws and readjusted the clearance at the button. the bearings are harder than the set screws.they won't dig into the bearing. i hope you put the pointie set screws in first. the distance from the drive pully hub to the end of the crank is 1 1/4 in. the bearing should be flush or some bearings with a snap ring in them stick out a 1/16 . check the condition of the pressure plate and pto surface. resurface if need be. also the three coil springs must be in good condition as thats what pulls the pressure plate away from the disk. you know you may pull the pto handle 4 or 5 inches but your only moving the button 1/4 to 3/8 of and inch or so. remember the slightest thing will change the way your pto works. whew tom, p.s. you did have the right adj. gauge

 

[dreinhardt]

Jerry try OPE they have a cross reference, almost.You look up the engine part number and click on another screen and they will tell what other engines they fit. I have purchased from them several time nice people. Dave
http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/index.php?main_page=index

 

[bbowman]

Richard;

Thanks for the reply.I have ag tires and wheel weights on this tractor,so wheel spin is not a problem. However,this tractor will lift the front end easily if I'm not very careful.The brakes are ineffective right now;another problem I'll tackle later.
This tractor will mostly be used for plowing and dragging a disc;I think a smooth transition from nuetral to power is necessary. If there are any more ideas out there,let me know!
Thanks,Bob.

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[theaton]

Bruce C., I took a closer look at the 147's dipsticks tonight. The short one by the S/G is a "dummy" stick. Thanks!

Dipstick at the top is in the cam cover, bottom stick is "For oil fill only".

 

[jmacdonald]

Thomas B. Thanks I will try and get three new springs just in case. I agree when I tapped it with the rubber mallet I also thought it slipped off of the rear of the bearing. At least I got to see it spin almost competly free for a few moments

First I tried seating the clutch without the anti rattle springs and as I tightened the set screws it pulled itself in and I tightened it up. The second time after installing those anti rattle springs I could not feel it seat as I tightned the screws. Yup the pointed ends were in first, and I did polish both pieces.

Dennis F. Thanks I am going to try moving the bearing ever so little forward after I try replacing those springs. Ya I've got to be ever so close. Sure was good to feel the clutch spin almost completly free after all this. At least I am seeing results after all this.