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Archive through February 07, 2011
- Thread starter jbaker
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Jeremiah C. You really can't go blaming the hydrostatic transmission for the engine not wanting to spin over "fast enough". Three years ago, my 125 had some wiring "issues" a.k.a. broken wires in the area where the steering column goes through the frame. I fixed those and even with an el cheapo WalMart battery unless it was below zero that 125 may have turned over slow it would still start. You've stated the points aren't in the best of condition.... THINK electrical. Another thing is I've gone to Interstate batteries over the Farm supply or WalMart type batteries and even the automotive store batteries. They are a little pricier only by far better quality. It bums me when I always hear the hydro being the blame for the tractor not starting in the winter. As Fancy always says, "Sometimes one needs to think outside the litterbox."
Ryan and Brian B. Very nice looking Cub Cadet!!!
Ryan and Brian B. Very nice looking Cub Cadet!!!
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Wayne M. Very nice rescue operation.
Off to work. Ya all have a great day.
Off to work. Ya all have a great day.
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Marlin --I agree with you, the motor should start regardless. However, it is interesting that IH used to offer a "Quick Disconnect" drive shaft.
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Jerimiah, Marlin, Tim,
Wally world batteries are not made with the best materials, as in recycled lead. Therefore thay do not have the best longevity... My WW RV battery lasted exactly a long as the warranty- 2 years... The best battery I bought for the cub was a Champion from BJ's wholesale Club... I would suggest the Interstate or Exide... In My cub, synthetic oil in the engine in the winter helps dramatically... A magnetic block heater affixed to the hydro case under the cub will heat up the hytran so it will start good.. A S/G on it's way out or not indexed right will also ad to your woes... HTH
Beth S, you may want to ask about the 1641 over on the MTD/CCC machines section....
Wally world batteries are not made with the best materials, as in recycled lead. Therefore thay do not have the best longevity... My WW RV battery lasted exactly a long as the warranty- 2 years... The best battery I bought for the cub was a Champion from BJ's wholesale Club... I would suggest the Interstate or Exide... In My cub, synthetic oil in the engine in the winter helps dramatically... A magnetic block heater affixed to the hydro case under the cub will heat up the hytran so it will start good.. A S/G on it's way out or not indexed right will also ad to your woes... HTH
Beth S, you may want to ask about the 1641 over on the MTD/CCC machines section....
Ryan and Brian, nice job, that 1200 looks great!
SCOTT - re Batteries - As many here have said, same as you, you have to really look beyond the name on the side of a battery. I had a CHAMPION battery I bought @ Wally-world years ago that failed internally due to poor manufacturing & design years ago... Set my pickup truck on fire.
You should look at the really fine print on the battery, most people agree than a battery made by Johnson Controls will be superior to anything else. Interstate, Exide, DieHard, and several others are readily available. You can check JC's website for a complete list.
30 years ago when I was at FARMALL, we used Delco batteries, then for a year used Presto-lite, then back to Delco. Now 30+ yrs later the factory equipment batteries used in those 86-series tractors have absolutely amazed people at how long the lasted. But I doubt either plant is still running.
For improving cold weather starting, anything you can do to warm up the engine or drivetrain will improve starting performance. I've had one of those 200-300W magnetic heaters for use on my CC's for 30 yrs.
You should look at the really fine print on the battery, most people agree than a battery made by Johnson Controls will be superior to anything else. Interstate, Exide, DieHard, and several others are readily available. You can check JC's website for a complete list.
30 years ago when I was at FARMALL, we used Delco batteries, then for a year used Presto-lite, then back to Delco. Now 30+ yrs later the factory equipment batteries used in those 86-series tractors have absolutely amazed people at how long the lasted. But I doubt either plant is still running.
For improving cold weather starting, anything you can do to warm up the engine or drivetrain will improve starting performance. I've had one of those 200-300W magnetic heaters for use on my CC's for 30 yrs.
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Dennis,
+1 on the Delcos... We use them as OEM in the units we build here at work.....
As for the Champion, it worked great, and I have heard of issues of these brands... Either they cheapened it up, or I got the "lemon".... To combat the battery thing, I modified my 149's battery tray so I can fit a Group 70 car battery in it... I don't think I'll have issued anymore...
+1 on the Delcos... We use them as OEM in the units we build here at work.....
As for the Champion, it worked great, and I have heard of issues of these brands... Either they cheapened it up, or I got the "lemon".... To combat the battery thing, I modified my 149's battery tray so I can fit a Group 70 car battery in it... I don't think I'll have issued anymore...
I bet this Interstate battery setup would start a Cub in the cold...
Eight 6 volt batteries wired in series/parallel combination for 12 volts with LOTS of amperage.
Eight 6 volt batteries wired in series/parallel combination for 12 volts with LOTS of amperage.
glippert
Well-known member
Re: magnetic heaters - how long do you have to use it to get the Hytran warmed up? I know the ambient temperature will affect it, but do you leave it on all the time, or plug it in an hour or two before you want to use it, or....?
Kraig - is that battery array for some sort of emergency backup system, running an inverter?
Kraig - is that battery array for some sort of emergency backup system, running an inverter?
Greg, regarding the magnetic heater, I plug mine in at least an hour before I attempt to start the Cub.
That would be the battery setup we have to power our cabin which is off grid. Yes that is an inverter, a 3000 watt Pro Sine inverter/charge controller in the upper right. We charge the batteries with a Yamaha model: EF4600DE generator. The inverter only provides 110 volts so we also have to use the generator to get 220 volts to run the well pump.
That would be the battery setup we have to power our cabin which is off grid. Yes that is an inverter, a 3000 watt Pro Sine inverter/charge controller in the upper right. We charge the batteries with a Yamaha model: EF4600DE generator. The inverter only provides 110 volts so we also have to use the generator to get 220 volts to run the well pump.
SCOTT - The Delco's IH used all came from Olatha, KS; Prestolite from Toledo. OH. Glad to hear Delco is still making batteries.
I didn't have a problem with my Champion battery till I hit a speed bump a bit too fast in the local HS parking lot. Compared to the way others have treated vehicles it was a very minor jolt or shock, about like slamming the hood closed. A cell shorted internally and the alternator charged at full potential because of the low voltage. It was just a 2-3 weeks outside of free replacement warranty. I was really disappointed that there was NOTHING Champion about Champion batteries. Neither the local W-M store or the battery manufacturer really took my claim for some compensation seriously. Finally the attorney for the claims division of the company told me, "If you feel you are owed something, We'll see you in court!" and hung up on me. I talked to the battery buyer @ W-M in Bentonville and they stopped handlng batteries from that company because of poor quality, and the lab tech that finally tested my battery in Minneapolis. The battery failed EVERY test in my Ford factory service manuals but the tech said it passed all the tests the manufacturer recommended. I told him to put the battery in HIS car, it was Jan. or Feb. and run it for a week and I'd call him back. He stuttered & stammered, then I told him, "You know the battery is a POS don't you!" He didn't deny it!
That was the END of me doing ANY business at W-M.
I've got small, Group 45 or maybe it's 54 batteries in my two NF CC's, only "L" terminal battery I have is in the 982 and it never runs in winter. The car batteries last 5 to 8 yrs where years ago when the CC 70 was new, We'd have to replace the L&G battery at least once a year just mowing the lawn.
Not sure what the M has for a battery, but the Super H has a big 12V DieHard, my '96 PSD F250 got MotorCraft's, Wife's car got a DieHard. My truck will soon be 15 yrs old, I suspect it's due for another pair of batteries soon.
I didn't have a problem with my Champion battery till I hit a speed bump a bit too fast in the local HS parking lot. Compared to the way others have treated vehicles it was a very minor jolt or shock, about like slamming the hood closed. A cell shorted internally and the alternator charged at full potential because of the low voltage. It was just a 2-3 weeks outside of free replacement warranty. I was really disappointed that there was NOTHING Champion about Champion batteries. Neither the local W-M store or the battery manufacturer really took my claim for some compensation seriously. Finally the attorney for the claims division of the company told me, "If you feel you are owed something, We'll see you in court!" and hung up on me. I talked to the battery buyer @ W-M in Bentonville and they stopped handlng batteries from that company because of poor quality, and the lab tech that finally tested my battery in Minneapolis. The battery failed EVERY test in my Ford factory service manuals but the tech said it passed all the tests the manufacturer recommended. I told him to put the battery in HIS car, it was Jan. or Feb. and run it for a week and I'd call him back. He stuttered & stammered, then I told him, "You know the battery is a POS don't you!" He didn't deny it!
That was the END of me doing ANY business at W-M.
I've got small, Group 45 or maybe it's 54 batteries in my two NF CC's, only "L" terminal battery I have is in the 982 and it never runs in winter. The car batteries last 5 to 8 yrs where years ago when the CC 70 was new, We'd have to replace the L&G battery at least once a year just mowing the lawn.
Not sure what the M has for a battery, but the Super H has a big 12V DieHard, my '96 PSD F250 got MotorCraft's, Wife's car got a DieHard. My truck will soon be 15 yrs old, I suspect it's due for another pair of batteries soon.
Dennis, Scott-
I recently learned about a battery sold at TSC and made by Exide with Briggs and Stratton on the label. It has something like 420 ca and 350 cca. Would this be a good battery? They sell for around $50 with core.
I've been trying to find a good, fair priced cub battery for a while. It's amazing what is on the market now. I've been looking for the 300+ cca and the choosing isn't that good or broad.
To jump a little off topic I have a green thing out there with the original battery. It's a 2001 made machine. I've never had a battery last like this one. At low rpm the battery light comes on and it's been doing that for the last two years.
Kraig-
I'd like to hear more about your off grid system...maybe in the sandbox? Or have you already? That's an impressive system.
I recently learned about a battery sold at TSC and made by Exide with Briggs and Stratton on the label. It has something like 420 ca and 350 cca. Would this be a good battery? They sell for around $50 with core.
I've been trying to find a good, fair priced cub battery for a while. It's amazing what is on the market now. I've been looking for the 300+ cca and the choosing isn't that good or broad.
To jump a little off topic I have a green thing out there with the original battery. It's a 2001 made machine. I've never had a battery last like this one. At low rpm the battery light comes on and it's been doing that for the last two years.
Kraig-
I'd like to hear more about your off grid system...maybe in the sandbox? Or have you already? That's an impressive system.
I've been happy using the "Road Runner" batteries that Fleet Farm sells, not sure who makes 'em... I think the one in my #2 125 is due for replacement, been a tough winter on it. I forget how long ago I bought it.
Wayne, are you looking for just a few details or for a bunch of photos or? I suppose I could start a Cabin thread in the Sandbox to discuss cabins or a Backup Power thread to discuss generators, solar panels, inverters and such or a Cabins and Backup AC thread to discuss both.
I'll wait for a little input to see what others might want before I start it.
And to keep this on topic. Last weekend when I went to start the #2 125 to clear the latest snowfall from the driveway and from around the wood piles I opened up the tarp garage and the Cub was listing to it's right. Hmmmm, that doesn't look right!?!?
Darn, a flat tire!
Thankfully I have plenty of spare tires and rims around.
Next time we get a sizable snowfall I need to get my wife or daughter to come out and take some photos and videos of the #2 125 and QA42. All my other snow removal photos and videos are of the #2 125 in it's pre- Killer Kohler days.
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And to keep this on topic. Last weekend when I went to start the #2 125 to clear the latest snowfall from the driveway and from around the wood piles I opened up the tarp garage and the Cub was listing to it's right. Hmmmm, that doesn't look right!?!?
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WAYNE - Very possible that battery is made by JC. I'd make the retailer prove it to you however. Who mkaes WHAT can change daily. I see a lot of "stuff" branded B&S now days, last I heard B&S was strapped for cash.... Selling their logo & name probably to make a few quick Dollars.
I HATE charging lights... I don't even care for Volt gauges either. Their readings are tempurature dependent. The fact your charge light is on at low idle for two years points more toward charging or alternator problems than battery problems.
One thing I don't care for with new batteries is they seem to work fine right up to the instant they "die". Two yrs ago I started the Wife's car to warm it up one morning, it was below Zero. Car ran fine 25 miles to work with lights, heater, wipers, heated seats, everything working as normal. Wife called at Noon, battery was dead, even the dome light wouldn't work. I cleaned the connections, still nothing, New BIG DieHard and life was good.
I suspect thats more by design now days, engine/drivetrain computers don't work well with low voltage.
I HATE charging lights... I don't even care for Volt gauges either. Their readings are tempurature dependent. The fact your charge light is on at low idle for two years points more toward charging or alternator problems than battery problems.
One thing I don't care for with new batteries is they seem to work fine right up to the instant they "die". Two yrs ago I started the Wife's car to warm it up one morning, it was below Zero. Car ran fine 25 miles to work with lights, heater, wipers, heated seats, everything working as normal. Wife called at Noon, battery was dead, even the dome light wouldn't work. I cleaned the connections, still nothing, New BIG DieHard and life was good.
I suspect thats more by design now days, engine/drivetrain computers don't work well with low voltage.
Hi everyone,
I installed a QA42A snow thrower on a 1450 several weeks ago. At that time I tightened the belt to what I thought was tight enough. In the process of using it I found I had to tighten the belt adjuster several times. I would here the belt slipping when trying the throw snow. I was afraid of over tightening it. What I settled on was cranking it hard. After that the thrower worked great and the belt did not slip except for when I got into some of the old hard snow.
My problem is I just replaced the belt as the first one broke from what I believe was being over tightened. The new belt is installed and I am back to the same initial problem of the belt seams tight yet I hear it slipping.
What do some of you do for this issue? Is there a happy medium that I have not found?
Thanks in advance, Rich.
I installed a QA42A snow thrower on a 1450 several weeks ago. At that time I tightened the belt to what I thought was tight enough. In the process of using it I found I had to tighten the belt adjuster several times. I would here the belt slipping when trying the throw snow. I was afraid of over tightening it. What I settled on was cranking it hard. After that the thrower worked great and the belt did not slip except for when I got into some of the old hard snow.
My problem is I just replaced the belt as the first one broke from what I believe was being over tightened. The new belt is installed and I am back to the same initial problem of the belt seams tight yet I hear it slipping.
What do some of you do for this issue? Is there a happy medium that I have not found?
Thanks in advance, Rich.
