Archive through February 02, 2014

[mfrade]

Nic B., no way would I do that.. the neighbors are cool with me! LOL.. Just a slushy mess!

Kraig, the paint is good / clean and waxed to boot! This was just one of them deals I guess. Every neighbor with a blower was having the same issue. If you went to light - it wouldn't clear the chute, if you went to heavy - it just jammed the chute instantly...

 

[jwiater]

1450 front hydraulic control lever problem.
Need help guys. I was plowing snow tonight and my ability to move my plow left and right is not working. It is like I broke a pin that allows me to work the control. Is there a pin I need to replace. Not sure how this works. I looked in my repair manual but it isn't really spelled out how to fix ths problem. I am really in a spot here as a big storm is coming on Wed here in New England with a bigger storm coming this weekend. I need all the help I can get asap. Thanks in advance. Jack W.
ps. The up and down for the plow works fine.

 

[digger]

Jack W.
Either #9 has come loose, or #7 or #3 is broke.
I'm betting that #9 came loose on ya.
The Parts Look up above shows how it all goes together.

 

[hlawson]

I'm another newbie looking for advice. Hope I'm posting this in the right place. I want to re-locate the voltage regulator on my 128. After I re-locate it and re-wire it, is it necessary to re-polarize? Thanks for any help.

 

[mpatterson]

Nice job Gerry, thanks for sharing Kraig! I like the cover over it with the IH sticker. Pretty Slick!

 

[jwiater]

1450 front Hydraulic control.
Digger, it appears that #9 could be the problem, but I don't understand exactly how the assembly works. Like I said the up and down works. nothing is broken in any of the linkage.
The shaft handle for the front control can be pushed or pulled in either direction with no control, Can you give me more details of how to fix it?

 

[jwiater]

Digger,
How is the smaller shaft sliding through the larger shaft connected to the linkage? That seems to be where the problem is. Also, what is the best way to access this. I noticed some screws on ths dash plate, but it looks like a PIA to go from up top as it looks like the steering wheel would have to be removed. The gas tank could be removed easily, but I don't think this will give me the proper access I need to fix it.

 

[dfrisk]

KEITH O. - Yes, that milky condensation/oil is typical of engines running too cold in winter. If you read the fine print in the CC op's manual or the Kohler manual, they both recommend more frequent service intervals in cold weather because of this. The oil doesn't get hot enough to boil away the condensate. Little known fact is that one gallon of gasoline burned in an engine makes FIVE QUARTS of water.

If there's just a little brown slime up at the top of the dip stick tube you should be O-K. There's no air circulation up there to pull the water vapor away. But I wouldn't run your engine over 20 hours on an oil change in winter. Oil is cheap, Kohler parts as I found out last spring are REALLY expensive.

HAROLD L. - The Delco Starter/generator and voltage regulator does not need "polarization" when it's hooked up. The way the system is wired, it "re-polarizes" itself every time the engine is started. If you study the op's or service manual, there's no mention of "polarizing" the V/R.

 

[digger]

Jack W.
I think it was Steve B. that did a fix or repair on one a while back, maybe he'll chime in or Kraig will post some more detailed pics, He knows where everything is.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Harold, WELCOME!