• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through February 01, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Harry: Regarding your "enhanced" QA-xxA bracket, or the original adapter (which no one has ever seen), I'm not clear on one point, how do the ear/fork extensions attach the existing ear/forks?
1a_scratchhead.gif


Edit: Another thought, the factory could just make a whole new piece to the required dimensions, the part you show in your "enhanced" sketch; or is that what you're saying the adapter package consists of --two new "side pieces?"
 
Tom

Backspacing is very different. SGTs used wheel centers that were almost even with the back bead, the others were more centered. Rim width is said to be the same, but I've never put a tape to them.
 
DON T. - I can remember where the OEM Mulching plate for the deck on our '61 Original was hanging in the garage from 50 yrs ago. Was in a little burlap bag complete with the short carriage bolt to attach it. It was NEVER mounted. The K161 could barely pull the deck let alone mulch grass & leaves. Problem is we moved off that farm in Dec. '72 and I'm not sure it got moved. I'm pretty sure it didn't get sent to town with the Original when that tractor was traded for the 70. The 70 had a mulching plate too, but the plate for the CI end decks was different. I've made mulching plates for both my 38 & 50 inch decks.

TERRY D. - Jeff is correct. The fact the needle bearing fell apart in one of your gernade gears means it was going to fail soon and wobble around and hit the crankshaft which leads almost instantly to a new picture window in the block. When I rebuild a K-series with them as soon as they come out of the engine they go in a zip-loc bag and get tossed on a shelf. Save the shims behind the gears, they fit the camshaft nicely.

The small amount of vibration they eliminate isn't worth the risk of scraping the block. The fact that IH and others felt the need to have them in the engines in their equipment isn't necessarily shared by the Kohler Engineer I talked to back in 1992 or so when I rebuilt my K301. He said there would be no problem leaving them out. The only reason there's any discussion about putting them in is because small engine shops like to so they don't have complaints about the small increase in vibration in a rebuilt engine and replacing the pressed-in studs they run on, the needle bearings, and the gears themselves is a great way to increase new parts sales. From what I've heard on another forum the costs of those parts is about what a new piston, rings, wrist pin, and conn rod are.

The balance plates Dave Kirk sells are a GREAT improvement. I had Dave balance the crank in my K321 and it vibrates less than the K241 did that I ran for 20 years & 1400 hours in the same tractor.
 
Dennis Frisk

(The K161 could barely pull the deck let alone mulch grass & leaves )

1a_scratchhead.gif
I don`t have a problem mowing with my Original and don`t know why you say they lack power to mow ? I have a few pictures of my original mowing through 8" high and 3' wide swath of leaves . I used first gear only to let the deck keep up to make smaller pieces out the discharge chute. With the hight deck opening I found it would allow a lot of leaves to get in under the deck and grind them up.

253115.jpg


253116.jpg


253117.jpg


253118.jpg


I don`t use the Original to mow with much ;only because it is slower than my Zero turn and my crapsman. It is a blast to run and does a good good mowing .

The 4880 toro will give a great cut in dry or wet grass at 7 miles an hr.I was shocked that it would mow soaking wet grass and still give a great cut.

253119.jpg





http://www.toro.com/en-us/homeowner/mowers/zero-turn-mowers/pages/model.aspx?pid=titan-mx4880-74871
 
Jeremiah - yes, the extended ears/forks in my sketch would have to be welded on. And if someone installed a semi-permanent Frankenstein bolt the extension would just slide onto it like QA frame tractors. And yes, my thought was the factory adapter package may just include the 2 brackets with these extensions already in place. I sure wish I had that thrower from long long ago, far far away - it had these and I'm certain now that's what it was for. It would work on QA and non-QA tractors.

Dennis - it's interesting to hear more and more stories about the balance gears. My Kohler K Service Manual is identified as issued 4/90, revised 11/92 but has engine years ID's up to 1995, so it has to be from the era you mention. It identifies a "new style" balance gear that seems to be recommended replacement. Also, I know from earlier discussions that David Kirk had discussions with Kohler engineers as well, just not sure from what era. Just never understood why Kohler couldn't have done a better balancing job - that doesn't result in a window to the past.
 
DON - When I mulch leaves, the grass is 4-5 inches tall, and the layer of leaves on top of the grass is six inches thick in many places. And I always mow to a 3 to 3-1/2 inch cut height. There's NO green grass visible in front of my mower, only behind the deck. I have about a dozen soft maple trees that are 50+ ft tall around the outside of my property, and close to that big in diameter and when the leaves fall they make a heavy mat of leaves over that whole area. MANY other deciduous trees besides those too. And my block-off mulching plate keeps all the leaves inside the deck and really chews them up. The leaves are almost powder when they finally find a way out of the deck. The few big pieces are at most 1/2 inch in diameter, most are 1/4 inch and less. They disintegrate much faster that way. If I had Gator blades on my 50C they'd work so much better for mulching. Yes, I have open places in my yard where there's no trees but enough leaves blow from under the trees to look about like the 2nd & 3rd pic you posted.

When I mulched with the 982 this fall I slowed to a creep under those Maple trees. Yes, I had HP in reserve but I wanted the leaves chewed up really well. Lets do the math, 50" deck divided by 20 HP equals 2-1/2 inches of deck per HP. With an Original the math is 38 inches of cut divided by seven HP equals 5.43 inches of deck per HP, over TWICE as much deck per HP, plus you can't slow to a creep unless you have a creeper gear or depress or slip the clutch on an O.

Geesh... I've worn-out 5-6 of those K161/181's. Don't you think I know what they CAN and CAN'T DO? And do you suppose there's a reason I put a K241 in my 72 27 yrs ago and replaced it with a K321 7 yrs ago.

Yes, an Original will mow the grass if you mow to a 3 inch height when the grass is up to 4-1/2 to 5 inches tall assuming your talking dry fescue grass and sharp blades. Let it get taller than that and you'll be in 1st gear and working it hard. If that grass happens to be lush crab grass as opposed to fescue then you'll be dropping into 1st gear mowing much over an inch off the grass. And that's all with DRY grass that mows easier than wet grass. The dry grass blows out of the deck and the wet grass sticks and plugs up the underside of the deck holding the clippings in using up more HP.

When I run the lawn vac with the 72 I put a set of modified blades on the deck that have verticle wings on the back edge of the blade sticking up so they really throw the clippings. The wings are 1" tall and 3-4 inches long. They pull VERY hard. Without the vac pulling the clippings out of the deck the K241 would not pull those blades to mow more than an inch of grass. Lots of times I could only vacuum half a mower swath if the volume of clippings & leaves was too great. Keep in mind the gross weight of the 72 & mower, vac unit, cart and load of clippings is around 2000# when the cart is full. Last spring when I vacuumed dry grass clippings the K321 pulled the vac just fine taking a full 38" swath and filling the cart with clippings in about 5-6 minutes, meaning I was moving a LOT of material.

A CC with a K161/181 is a fine little tractor to pull around a cart for yard work, or a lawn sweeper, maybe do a little work with a blade. There's even been some 7 & 8 HP CC's at plow days. But your post was beginning to sound like you were mowing foot tall weeds in 3rd gear!

HARRY - Yes, I think Kohler came out with a third version and maybe a fourth version of the gernade gears too. We had a good discussion on another L&G tractor forum about them several months ago. At best, they're a band-aid to an inherent imbalance Kohler designed into the K-series engines. And as the engines grew in displacement & HP the imbalance, hense, vibration grew worse.

Dave Kirk explained the situation to Wyatt & I when Wyatt & I visited Dave to pick up Wyatt's K321 Wyatt built for his Wheatland tractor. Piston engines have to be balanced to a certain range of "Imbalance" between the reciprocating and rotating weights. Dave works with those design issues daily at his Day Job. The K301/321/341 engines are WAY outside the acceptable range of imbalance, hense, they vibrate.

The gernade gears are a band-aid because there wasn't enough space for a proper balance shaft supported on both ends as is typical of other engines with counter-rotating balance shafts. A gear with an over-hung bob-weight hanging off a single needle bearing is NOT a good design for something that by design is NOT balanced.

We know that the gernade gears cause problems. Dave has had the balance plates in his CC a L-O-N-G time with NO issues, only smooth running. Some people at that other forum wanted to wait and see for many years and thousands of hours of run time to see if the plates came loose, in other words, play the same game as a design engineer once wanted to play with our purchasing group, We wanted to replace FIVE different types of 1/4"-20 X 1/2" set screws in a machine with one type in all 5 places. The engineer responded to our value engineering exercise by telling us, "Build one that way and run it 24-7 for thirty years and let me know how it goes..." In other words, "It's my design and leave it to heck alone!

On the K-series engines over-all, Kohler gets an A, on the response to customer's request for a smoother single cyl engine Kohler gets a B+. But on the design of the fix for smoother running they get a D-. For the execution of fitting everything inside the engine and using a high number of common existing parts they get a B+ also.
 
Dennis - gol der it, I shouldn't have suggested more info would be better. My K341A seems to run pretty smooth to me. Sure it shakes at the lower idle but about 1/2 throttle and up she's pretty nice AND the balance gears are in there with the same roller bearings, and I think even the same original spring clip. Here I sit, pondering, what to do, what to do, what to do.
 
Guys I have 2questions

1on a 102 what color would the grill be painted?

2 on a narrow frame why would I be able to make a tighter left turn than a right turn??
Everything is tight on the tie rods

Thanks
 
Harry,
Do you know if the pins on the QAXXA decks line up with those holes on a nf?

The grill on a 102 is cadmium plated.not painted
You can adjust the tie rod ends to make it steer more equal.I can elaborate more but it is spelled out in the 1x61x7 manual.

Don T

Looks like you need a leaf picker upper thingy.
 
Lewis Do Da - you went and do-do'd it. I dont' know quite what you're asking.
You say "pins on the QAXXA decks" but I think you mean the pin sticking out on the "thrower" mounting bracket.
And you say "do they line up with the holes on a nf?". Assuming you mean the pin sticking out where you attach the top link bar on a QAXXA, then yes, I believe the pin matches up with the hole in a narrow frame. Someone already suggested drilling the pin out and using a rod, but I don't believe that will work since I think it would conflict with the PTO clutch, or belt.
 
Harry the Do Da Hydro...
That was my suggestion..
Are you sure those holes line up with the pins for the arms?
The holes in the frame do not line up with the pto belt and are in line with the s/g belt, but that will not be a problem.
 
CHRIS R. - The tie rod that runs from your steering gearbox up to the left frt spindle is either too long or too short. Since it turns tighter to the left than right, I'd say it's too long.

If you want it to turn tight BOTH direction, remove the steering arm on the top of the left spindle and drill another 3/8" dia hole about 1/4"-3/8" to the left of the existing hole, closer to the spindle. Then the steering will get just a slight bit harder but you'll only notice it when standing still, when moving it steers the same, and you'll be able to turn noticably tighter i both directions. I did that to my 72 about 30 yrs ago, Dad liked it a lot and did it to his 70.

HARRY - I know you don't run your Cubbie much, but if it was mine, I'd remove the gernade gears. The K341's have become crazy expensive because of the number of pullers looking for them. They aren't worth so much with holes knocked in the sides of the crankcase.

The worn shafts the gears mount on, worn needle bearings, used circlips, if the gears get wobbling too much they push the circlips off and the gears slide back & forth against the side wall of the block when the crankshaft hits them. About two-three wacks and your block has a new picture window.

With a solid mounted engine it might be only slightly noticable that the gears are gone. In a Q/L since the engine is rubber mounted they seem to be able to move around more and would probably vibrate a bit more noticably.
 
All the latest chatter about balance gears, I must ask the question that I know has been answered before: "Does a Quietline have balance gears in them?" This is the engine that uses the long dipstick mounted vertically.

I wouldn't like to see stars through my engine block.
 
Tom the super rim is 10-1/2 wide and puts the wheel at a wider footprint
 
Thanks for the tire/wheel info guys. That's kinda' what I remembered.
 
This has probably been asked before, but will a 26 x 12 x 12 tire fit a 23 x 10.5 x 12 wheel? This should give it a wider footprint. Right?
 
Tom,

Mike has some supers and should know the wheel width better than I, but just for the record, the IH TC-193 parts manual for the 82 series, list he rear wheel size for the 982, P/N 140 354 C1, as W8.5JA-12, and that is a different P/N than what is on a 782. I have a Cub Cadet/MTD parts manual for the supers (1572 thru the 2284)and it lists the tire size (26-12x12) but not the wheel size. I had, and may still have, a pair of wheels with the same rear offset as the 982 wheels, but they were only 8.5" wide, but they were painted (appeared to be factory) silver so I don't know what they were off of, but there are some out there that are only 8.5 wide.
 
Scratch my question, the one I was thinking about is 26 x 12 x 12. I know it won't fit.

Thanks Charlie
 
Dennis Frisk
We had some company and they just left; I like my Original and yes I know not to use it on high grass and I usually let my grass grow and cut it at 4" or more. I have found that the grass does not dry out as fast as next door. When his is brown I still have green. And I have less dandelions also. You said a funny that I seen here in print before ; mowing tall grass in third gear with an Original.
clappy.gif


Lewis Do-Da Palma

Yep I do need one of those ( leaf picker upper thingy) lol. I just don`t have room to store one ,Cyclone rake Pro
1a_scratchhead.gif
would do it.

This site has the best people on it and the people make it great. I read every post every morning with my java and catch up. I wish I could remember half what I read.
thumbsup_old.gif


I hope I never have offend anyone .
 
Tom,

A Firestone reference chart lists the 7JA as the proper wheel for the 23" tires and 8.5 - 10.5 wheels for the 26" tires. The 7/8.5/9.5/10.5 is the wheel width in inches. The letters (i.e. "JA") is a designation for the wheel profile which, I guess, would include offset. I didn't find this information.

Here is info copied from the reference chart:

23x8.50-12 7JA
23x10.50-12 7JA

26x12.00-12

8.50-I-55, I-70, I-90,
8 1/2 JA, 8.50AT, 9 1/2 JA,
9.5AT, 10 1/2 JA, 10.5-I-55,
I-70, I-90, 10.5AT

Norm, the 26" tire would probably go on the 7JA wheel (same diameter, same contour) but the wheel is 1.5" too narrow and not recommended in this Firestone chart.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top