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Archive through February 01, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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dfrisk

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Nov 12, 2001
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Dennis Frisk
DANIEL - Yes, cooling airflow will be less with the smaller flywheel. As was suggested to Me when I put a small flywheel on a K321, "Just don't try to mow acres of foot tall grass on a 90 degree day".
Operating temp on an air-cooled engine is all about engine load and ambient air temp. In cold temps when doing snow removal engine temps are almost always too cold, therefore more frequent oil changes are required to remove unburnt gasoline from the engine oil. During hot temps even the factory-sized flywheel is marginal at cooling.
On a small flywheel 16 HP normal lawn mowing on cooler days should not be a problem. Make sure the blower screen & fins on the block & head are clean and You shouldn't have a problem. I would not work the engine hard however, or for long duration. If You don't have a feel for engine load in relation to ambient temp You should put a cylinder head temp gauge on the tractor.
 
Cub Cadet 100 v6,mime_html.gif,2.1,CUB CADET 100 V6.htm,text/html} I have 2 cub cadet 100's. I use one every day with a blade, a snowthrower and a mower deck. The other one I am in the process of putting a 4.3 chevy V6 and 2 speed chevy powerglide transmission in it. As soon as i round up a set of rear fenders i should have evrything i need to complete the project, except i am not sure what to do on the front spindles and wheels. any suggestions
 
185074.jpg
The first tractor i own and i'll post a pic of the second one.
 
this is my first year pulling when do pulls normally start what month
 
maybe the small flywheel would be better in cold temps of snow blading. I have other cubs for mowing.. thanks Danny
 
looking for some new pulling tires. With firestones and sugerlugs being discontinued, whats the next best choice? I've looked at tru- powers and tru-power at's. also looked at deerestones but heard they run a little narrow. What you'll opion?
 
Jed,

Look for Old Firestones like the ones in Mick Morgan's Pic. They are out there, I found 2 different pairs when I was pulling, I think I got lucky though. I sold my 2 pairs last summer.

Good Luck!
 
Mick, I like the use of aluminum
it looks great. One serious question, why are the wheelie bar wheels set at ground level?I have been around pulling for 36 years and I have never seen anyone run like that. if the front end tries to lift at all, it will transfer weight directly to the wheelies immediately, which in effect will want to lift the pulling tires off the ground.

I am not being critical or trying to rip on your setup at all, but merely suggesting that the wheels should be raised to 5" above ground zero, as most rules permit. The results will be better.

Consider the effect (as currently built) of the Firestones digging in the dirt, once they dig in any at all the tractor will be supported by the wheelie bars, not the rear tires = immediate loss of traction.

Again, this is meant as help to you, not a critique of your design. Please consider this in a positive manner.
 
Jed,
Some guys are using the Tru power AT's by cutting the lug to resemble the old straight bar Firestone lugs. The concept is to remove the "dogbone" look of the lugs where they overlap; to get rid of that huge knob of rubber that stands in the way of getting a good bite of the track.

They best cut I have seen ends up looking almost like the old 'stones and pulls just as good. of course this assumes that you are allowed to cut the tires. As far as using "non-puller" tires nothing still beats the 'stones but these can be their equal. Your goal is to end up with lugs that are as wide as the Firestones and resemeble them. Harden them also if permitted.
 
Jim, Just went out and got out the tape measure,have a full 6 inches of ground clearance, the photo is playing tricks on us. Ive been around pulling a LONG time to so I kinda know whats goin also Thanks any way!!
 
Morning everyone. I am building a 100 puller for a stock class and need a little help. I have a set of Vogel 10" wheels with 5" backspace. The only way I can Run these with the rear fenders in the stock position is with a 2" adapter. Is it safe to run the adapter or should I find out if class rules will allow me to move the fenders. Any opinions will be greatly appriciated.
 
Being 'way out of my element, here, I have a question for THE PULLERS. I've parted a 1811 and the axles have a kind of "burnt" look. Is this a bad thing??
186398.jpg
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Thanks, Matt. Just following directions: "ASK THE PROS".
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FRANK - Matt's correct, those are signs of INDUCTION Hardening. They use electric coils to heat the splined ends of the axle. Makes the splines hard on the outside and soft in the center. Hard on the outside for very long wear, soft on the inside to absorb shock. Yes, the axles would be stronger if they were hard all the way thru but for want of a better word, Brittle. Which means they tend to snap if large amounts of shock or torque were put thru the drivetrain.
 

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