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Harry/David-
I'm guessing "Corvette"... (V-8)
I'm guessing "Corvette"... (V-8)
-
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Archive through December 28, 2012
- Thread starter hydroharry
- Start date
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David S.
Just did a Google search and came up with this for $35 used.
http://www.superscoutspecialists.com/store/pc-300-12-international-harvester-a-corporate-tragedy-book.aspx
I don't know the reputation of this place or if they have any in stock. Worth checking out.
Just did a Google search and came up with this for $35 used.
http://www.superscoutspecialists.com/store/pc-300-12-international-harvester-a-corporate-tragedy-book.aspx
I don't know the reputation of this place or if they have any in stock. Worth checking out.
Art - you got it! 1962 Rochester continuous flow fuel injection system for a 327 Chevy V8. This all-mechanical FI was the hot ticket in those days.
Imagine that...Hydro disagrees with yet another "assumption", I guess, on my part about the inner rod of the manual lift arm.
I have over thirty units now most of which are wf manual lift. I've never seen a welded tip less than 90* and most were of 3/8" stock (just the tip). None worked worth a damn because you have to press the buton in so far for it to clear the ratchet. So you recently went up to two 169s and got on your head to examine the tips of the inner rods??? I do know the bent 5/16" rod works great. It works as I would imagine an engineer would have designed it to work. I had several issues a couple of years ago and about broke my brain figuring it out. I NEVER got a welded tip to work well at all...even when bent a little less than 90*. I have welded a 5/16" piece on a little less than 90* and it worked just fine. The lower part of the casting of the lift arm has limiters allowing a tad of play to and fro. This limiting section doesn't work well with 3/8" stock even though the 3/8" will fit into the ratchet teeth...quite tightly I might add.
I'd like to know if IH would go to the extent to weld something that worked fine when just bent. If it was a matter of 3/8" being better (again, at the tip) than 5/16" then why not just make the whole rod 3/8". Maybe they already had a quadzillion buttons made to fit the 5/16". I'd be willing to bet they were never welded but I can't say for sure. Please feel free to research this out because I have no desire to do so. In this case I know what works best and just tried to pass it on.
Now, everyone go stand on your heads while someone pushes the button in and see if yours is in fact welded.
I have over thirty units now most of which are wf manual lift. I've never seen a welded tip less than 90* and most were of 3/8" stock (just the tip). None worked worth a damn because you have to press the buton in so far for it to clear the ratchet. So you recently went up to two 169s and got on your head to examine the tips of the inner rods??? I do know the bent 5/16" rod works great. It works as I would imagine an engineer would have designed it to work. I had several issues a couple of years ago and about broke my brain figuring it out. I NEVER got a welded tip to work well at all...even when bent a little less than 90*. I have welded a 5/16" piece on a little less than 90* and it worked just fine. The lower part of the casting of the lift arm has limiters allowing a tad of play to and fro. This limiting section doesn't work well with 3/8" stock even though the 3/8" will fit into the ratchet teeth...quite tightly I might add.
I'd like to know if IH would go to the extent to weld something that worked fine when just bent. If it was a matter of 3/8" being better (again, at the tip) than 5/16" then why not just make the whole rod 3/8". Maybe they already had a quadzillion buttons made to fit the 5/16". I'd be willing to bet they were never welded but I can't say for sure. Please feel free to research this out because I have no desire to do so. In this case I know what works best and just tried to pass it on.
Now, everyone go stand on your heads while someone pushes the button in and see if yours is in fact welded.
Norm Bartee
you had me going there for a minute . I when to that site to order the book and see they ship UPS . With all the fees UPS charges it would cost me over 75$. I will have to get Frank C to send one over .
you had me going there for a minute . I when to that site to order the book and see they ship UPS . With all the fees UPS charges it would cost me over 75$. I will have to get Frank C to send one over .
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Hydro Harry - here is a pic of the lift rod on my 109:
Looks welded to me (and coated with a goodly amount of PB Blaster)
The good news is the lift rod if moving free again. I still haven't figured out the floating button thingy and how to make that work - yet. (One of my other color tractors uses a chain for the blade lift and float is ever present. You can add a solid rod in place of the chain and have down pressure if necessary) Also have learned that those wide tires on the front, being so smooth, are not much for steering on snow....
Looks welded to me (and coated with a goodly amount of PB Blaster)
The good news is the lift rod if moving free again. I still haven't figured out the floating button thingy and how to make that work - yet. (One of my other color tractors uses a chain for the blade lift and float is ever present. You can add a solid rod in place of the chain and have down pressure if necessary) Also have learned that those wide tires on the front, being so smooth, are not much for steering on snow....
hydroharry
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Bill J and Wayne S - it sure looks like a welded tip in Bill's pic. Now Bill, if you could just press on the button and hold it down, then crawl under the tractor and get a pic from the inside looking out at the tip, then maybe we could see the 3/8" tip that is welded onto your 5/16" rod.
Wayne, yes when I was at my son's place couple years ago I had to crawl inder 2 of his 169s and look at the lift arms. He had a 129 with a bent tip on the rod that wasn't catching real well in the adjusting slots, and when I looked at the 169's they both had the welded tip slightly less than 90*.
Come on Guys - let us know what you have on your 1x8/9 units. Do you have the welded tip like Bill or do you have a bent rod???? We need to know.
Wayne, yes when I was at my son's place couple years ago I had to crawl inder 2 of his 169s and look at the lift arms. He had a 129 with a bent tip on the rod that wasn't catching real well in the adjusting slots, and when I looked at the 169's they both had the welded tip slightly less than 90*.
Come on Guys - let us know what you have on your 1x8/9 units. Do you have the welded tip like Bill or do you have a bent rod???? We need to know.
What part of "welded by POs" is so hard to understand??????
The tip Bill shows is not factory plus it looks to be broken.
My point exactly.
Bill- Try and unscrew the button with a pair of pliers or vise-grips. Be careful not to put too much pressure because they will break or twist in two fairly easily. If it doesn't want to give you can take it out the other way by cutting off the weld at the bottom. Then it should just slide out of the top. At that point you can use PB Blaster or whatever to loosen the button from the rod and all work can be done in a vise. Length is pretty critical here so keep the little piece that was cut off if you go this route. I'd go back (weld) with 5/16" stock and make it about 75* at most. I would post a pic of an OEM rod but I just installed my last in my nephews 128 (which works great).
The tip Bill shows is not factory plus it looks to be broken.
My point exactly.
Bill- Try and unscrew the button with a pair of pliers or vise-grips. Be careful not to put too much pressure because they will break or twist in two fairly easily. If it doesn't want to give you can take it out the other way by cutting off the weld at the bottom. Then it should just slide out of the top. At that point you can use PB Blaster or whatever to loosen the button from the rod and all work can be done in a vise. Length is pretty critical here so keep the little piece that was cut off if you go this route. I'd go back (weld) with 5/16" stock and make it about 75* at most. I would post a pic of an OEM rod but I just installed my last in my nephews 128 (which works great).
Wayne, Hydro, just curious, when you are referring to the angle of the bend, are referring to it in relation to the rest of the rod as illustrated in my crude sketch below? Or???
