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Archive through December 28, 2012
- Thread starter hydroharry
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Art,
I was busy at work or I would have posted a stern comment or possibly even made it go
I hate it when actual work gets in the way.
nbextermueller
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- Nic Bextermueller
Regarding the "what its worth" answer I provided. I did ponder and acknowledge the rules, but when it didn't get poofed. I tried to slide in with a general answer... Next I'll just email him.
Nic
Next time I will not ask the question, sorry to get you include in my moment of forum indiscretion.
What I should have said was I was excited about finding a hydro lift that I might use on the 122 now that the tiller is working. The spring assist works nice but a hydro lift would be cool.
By the time I'm done with this Cub it will 20 years worth of crops to justify it.
But wait I could make the garden bigger
Next time I will not ask the question, sorry to get you include in my moment of forum indiscretion.
What I should have said was I was excited about finding a hydro lift that I might use on the 122 now that the tiller is working. The spring assist works nice but a hydro lift would be cool.
By the time I'm done with this Cub it will 20 years worth of crops to justify it.
But wait I could make the garden bigger
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Hey Bill - I don't think you were breaking the rules. You just asked if it was worth it, and I think the rules say that is fine. I probably got on the edge of the rules (just re-read them), and Nic may have been over the edge. Things are a little fuzzy when you're around the edge. But hey, you're gonna do what you're gonna do. A N/F hydraulic lift is a nice toy to have.
Bill J - on the tires, here's what I've generally seen and assumed if they weren't standard by the manual then they were ordered that way by the dealer. Most of the 7hp tractors had narrow 4.80x4x8 front tires and 6x12 rears. The 8hp (model 86) had those narrow fronts but 23x8.5 rears about half the time and 6x12 the other half the time. I think the 800 had the 16x6.5x8 fronts and 23x8.50 rears (but only ever saw a few of these). The 10hp units would get narrow fronts half the time (except the 1000) but most always will have 23x8.5 rears. The 12hp units would have the 16x6.5 fronts and 23x8.5 rears. The 14hp and 16hp units would always have 16x6.5 fronts and 23x10.5 rears. I'm sure there will be some guys that say they have a 12hp with the narrow fronts or 6x12 rears but I would say that is unusual, even if it's listed in the manual. I figure I've seen maybe 1000 different CC units in my day, and this generally holds true.
Now, on the lift button, you can try to get some oil down the tube onto the spring but I suspect you may have a broken spring already if it's sticking. It's a real pain to fix.
Bill J - on the tires, here's what I've generally seen and assumed if they weren't standard by the manual then they were ordered that way by the dealer. Most of the 7hp tractors had narrow 4.80x4x8 front tires and 6x12 rears. The 8hp (model 86) had those narrow fronts but 23x8.5 rears about half the time and 6x12 the other half the time. I think the 800 had the 16x6.5x8 fronts and 23x8.50 rears (but only ever saw a few of these). The 10hp units would get narrow fronts half the time (except the 1000) but most always will have 23x8.5 rears. The 12hp units would have the 16x6.5 fronts and 23x8.5 rears. The 14hp and 16hp units would always have 16x6.5 fronts and 23x10.5 rears. I'm sure there will be some guys that say they have a 12hp with the narrow fronts or 6x12 rears but I would say that is unusual, even if it's listed in the manual. I figure I've seen maybe 1000 different CC units in my day, and this generally holds true.
Now, on the lift button, you can try to get some oil down the tube onto the spring but I suspect you may have a broken spring already if it's sticking. It's a real pain to fix.
mfrade
Well-known member
A review of the Forum Rules shows; and it looks like 1ndone is over...
"HOWEVER, access to the classifieds will NOT be handed out to brand new users in order to curtail abuse, such as those that register just so they can post their ad and not contribute anything to the community.
If you have something you want to GIVE AWAY for FREE, post it in the Classifieds.
This is not an appraisal site! Questions regarding the specific value of any particular unit, implement or whatever are not allowed. Any posts containing such queries will be removed. Asking if a certain amount for a tractor is worth buying it for is fine."
So asking if that hydraulic lift was worth buying for 300 should've been allowed right?? Or am I reading it wrong again??? Are we specifically saying tractor value with a price is ok while an implement or attachment with a price is not?
"HOWEVER, access to the classifieds will NOT be handed out to brand new users in order to curtail abuse, such as those that register just so they can post their ad and not contribute anything to the community.
If you have something you want to GIVE AWAY for FREE, post it in the Classifieds.
This is not an appraisal site! Questions regarding the specific value of any particular unit, implement or whatever are not allowed. Any posts containing such queries will be removed. Asking if a certain amount for a tractor is worth buying it for is fine."
So asking if that hydraulic lift was worth buying for 300 should've been allowed right?? Or am I reading it wrong again??? Are we specifically saying tractor value with a price is ok while an implement or attachment with a price is not?
Norm: Holy ramainder mark Batman, That book must be printed w/gold type set, guilded edge paper or sumthin!!!
I just looked on Half.com hoping to pick up a copy and the only one I could find they wanted $99.95 for!!!
Soooo, I guess it's off to the Public Library to see if they can get one thru inter-library loan.
Dave S.
I just looked on Half.com hoping to pick up a copy and the only one I could find they wanted $99.95 for!!!
Soooo, I guess it's off to the Public Library to see if they can get one thru inter-library loan.
Dave S.
Bill J.-
If the inner rod of your lift arm has been "fixed" and the end has a right angle bend or weld then there will be problems. The OEM wasn't a right angle but a bit less. It's hard to visualize but if it's at a right angle you are forced to push the button further for proper function. I've also found several that POs have welded a piece of 3/8" rod to the tip which fits in the teeth of the ratchet but isn't proper. The rod is 5/16" and OEM is one piece with a bend...no welds. It also helps if the inner rod is straight. There are a couple of guide holes in the tube that can be tight with just a little rust (or paint as I have found). I recently worked on one where the tractor had turned over on its side and bent the outer tube just a bit and it had to be replaced. That tube is heavy stock and very hard to bend back straight. The button "should" come off with a pair of pliers or vise grips at the most. It's easy to twist and break so be gentle. The tractor has to be elevated in order to remove the inner rod too as you probably know.
Good luck!
If the inner rod of your lift arm has been "fixed" and the end has a right angle bend or weld then there will be problems. The OEM wasn't a right angle but a bit less. It's hard to visualize but if it's at a right angle you are forced to push the button further for proper function. I've also found several that POs have welded a piece of 3/8" rod to the tip which fits in the teeth of the ratchet but isn't proper. The rod is 5/16" and OEM is one piece with a bend...no welds. It also helps if the inner rod is straight. There are a couple of guide holes in the tube that can be tight with just a little rust (or paint as I have found). I recently worked on one where the tractor had turned over on its side and bent the outer tube just a bit and it had to be replaced. That tube is heavy stock and very hard to bend back straight. The button "should" come off with a pair of pliers or vise grips at the most. It's easy to twist and break so be gentle. The tractor has to be elevated in order to remove the inner rod too as you probably know.
Good luck!
DAVID - My copy of Corp. Tragedy was one from the first printing, copyright 1985, price on the inside of the dust jacket was $19.95. Wish I'd bought other things that appreciated in value 500% in 27 years, like maybe 1000 more copies of the book.
At one time I had THREE copies of 150 Years of IH by CH Wendell. I bought the first one in 1981 when it was first printed, had mine even before the Plant Manager of FARMALL had his. And I got the other two as gifts in later years. I've got around 60 books on IH and their equipment now.
At one time I had THREE copies of 150 Years of IH by CH Wendell. I bought the first one in 1981 when it was first printed, had mine even before the Plant Manager of FARMALL had his. And I got the other two as gifts in later years. I've got around 60 books on IH and their equipment now.
Dennis: Sounds like an awesome library!!
On another note, I'm working on my 1200 and need to repair/replace the main power cable ends and the batt and starter ground cables. Anyone know for sure juts what guage wire was used for these cables?? I'm looking to purchase some wire and terminals and need to know for sure just what guage and color these wires were originally.
Thanks Gang!
Dave S.
On another note, I'm working on my 1200 and need to repair/replace the main power cable ends and the batt and starter ground cables. Anyone know for sure juts what guage wire was used for these cables?? I'm looking to purchase some wire and terminals and need to know for sure just what guage and color these wires were originally.
Thanks Gang!
Dave S.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Dennis:
Like the unmentionable price of a Cub, the value is in the eye of the seller..... They WANT $100.00 for the book....
Off topic.. Rainy here and 74 degrees... wiring the 8x17 workshop for overhead lights and power ($32.00 for the two 4' lights and bulbs, $157.00 for the PVC conduit, fittings, boxes, duplex outlets and new wire stripper.... this is like putting an accessory on a HD)
Talked to my neighbor in MI, he's had the 129 out, I forgot to tell him about the belt tightener loosening up on the 42A,, no wonder he had problems last year in wet snow after a few hours of running.. Gotta do the stop bolt trick - make sure I remember to do that in May, will ya Harry?
Like the unmentionable price of a Cub, the value is in the eye of the seller..... They WANT $100.00 for the book....
Off topic.. Rainy here and 74 degrees... wiring the 8x17 workshop for overhead lights and power ($32.00 for the two 4' lights and bulbs, $157.00 for the PVC conduit, fittings, boxes, duplex outlets and new wire stripper.... this is like putting an accessory on a HD)
Talked to my neighbor in MI, he's had the 129 out, I forgot to tell him about the belt tightener loosening up on the 42A,, no wonder he had problems last year in wet snow after a few hours of running.. Gotta do the stop bolt trick - make sure I remember to do that in May, will ya Harry?
Gerry Ide
I got CRS bad ; takes less than ten minutes sometimes to forget what I need to remember on the trip to town. The note pad sometimes gets left at home also.
We are to get SNOW tonight all night and all the next day. I`am gassing up and getting everything ready now. I would like to see some snow come down while I look out the window , It is nice to see when you don`t have to go out side unless you want some quality seat time.
I got CRS bad ; takes less than ten minutes sometimes to forget what I need to remember on the trip to town. The note pad sometimes gets left at home also.
We are to get SNOW tonight all night and all the next day. I`am gassing up and getting everything ready now. I would like to see some snow come down while I look out the window , It is nice to see when you don`t have to go out side unless you want some quality seat time.
GERRY - Yes, and the seller probably won't sell it to anyone offering less. But from what I read on other forums there's plenty of people who want them, hense, the high asking price.
Like when I went to look at a rather high hour 1872 CC w/50 inch deck years ago, no aux. remotes, no Cat O 3-pt, had the standard P/S and I think steering brakes, lot of hours on the engine and no rebuild yet. Guy wanted $3500 and I offered him $2000 and he grabbed the key out of the ignition and walked back into his house, never said a word.
And on the flip side, after I bought the 982 a year or so later I parked the 129 up by the road on weekends with a For Sale sign leaned against the frt tire. Had several people stop in and ask about it. One guy in a brand new Land Rover didn't like my asking price, just shifted into reverse and left never saying a word which was fine by me. Six years later and several hundred more hours on the tractor later I got $100 less than my asking price at Dad's auction. Plus I needed the small flywheel & cooling tins for my small flywheel K321 in the 72. So it all depends on how serious the seller is about getting his asking price.
I wanted one of Guy Fay's books on protorype & experimental IH tractors several years after it was out of print several years ago. My Sister & I advertised on Amazon for almost two years before she got it for me and at about five times the book shelf price. She also happens to be the Library Administrator at the local college down home so she's familiar with what old books can be worth. Books that aren't NY Times best sellers are expensive when they're out of print for 20-30 years, AND you're lucky enough to find one for sale.
Did you ever negotiate prices on your text books when you were in college with the book store? But that's another sore spot with me, a rant waiting to happen.
Like when I went to look at a rather high hour 1872 CC w/50 inch deck years ago, no aux. remotes, no Cat O 3-pt, had the standard P/S and I think steering brakes, lot of hours on the engine and no rebuild yet. Guy wanted $3500 and I offered him $2000 and he grabbed the key out of the ignition and walked back into his house, never said a word.
And on the flip side, after I bought the 982 a year or so later I parked the 129 up by the road on weekends with a For Sale sign leaned against the frt tire. Had several people stop in and ask about it. One guy in a brand new Land Rover didn't like my asking price, just shifted into reverse and left never saying a word which was fine by me. Six years later and several hundred more hours on the tractor later I got $100 less than my asking price at Dad's auction. Plus I needed the small flywheel & cooling tins for my small flywheel K321 in the 72. So it all depends on how serious the seller is about getting his asking price.
I wanted one of Guy Fay's books on protorype & experimental IH tractors several years after it was out of print several years ago. My Sister & I advertised on Amazon for almost two years before she got it for me and at about five times the book shelf price. She also happens to be the Library Administrator at the local college down home so she's familiar with what old books can be worth. Books that aren't NY Times best sellers are expensive when they're out of print for 20-30 years, AND you're lucky enough to find one for sale.
Did you ever negotiate prices on your text books when you were in college with the book store? But that's another sore spot with me, a rant waiting to happen.
I know it's off topic, but here's a pic of a project that I've been working on for a friend:
It needed a complete rebuild and refurbishment. I volunteered because 1) he's a good friend, and 2) I wanted to understand the principle on which this system operated. After rebuilding it and studying the repair manual, I can understand why these had such a bad reputation of calibrations drifting, altitude sensitivity, etc. Modern day electronics have really brought us a long way in this technology.
Now that this is out of the way, on to more interesting Cub-related projects!
It needed a complete rebuild and refurbishment. I volunteered because 1) he's a good friend, and 2) I wanted to understand the principle on which this system operated. After rebuilding it and studying the repair manual, I can understand why these had such a bad reputation of calibrations drifting, altitude sensitivity, etc. Modern day electronics have really brought us a long way in this technology.
Now that this is out of the way, on to more interesting Cub-related projects!
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Dave & Harry - thanks for the info on the lift handle. I am giving the lift handle a blast w/ PB blaster to see where I get with that.
Harry - thanks for the narrow vs wide front tire info!
Harry - quick question: I have gleaned that you prefer hydro drive vs gear drive. Can I assume one should lump manual lift in with gear drives and populate the shed with hydro drive
w/ hydro lift...
Another quick question: I notice that the 1x9 series had two style decks - the triangular shaped 3 blade decks and the 44A/50A style decks. Question is - is there any reason to avoid the triangular decks from a quality of cut standpoint?
Harry - thanks for the narrow vs wide front tire info!
Harry - quick question: I have gleaned that you prefer hydro drive vs gear drive. Can I assume one should lump manual lift in with gear drives and populate the shed with hydro drive
w/ hydro lift...
Another quick question: I notice that the 1x9 series had two style decks - the triangular shaped 3 blade decks and the 44A/50A style decks. Question is - is there any reason to avoid the triangular decks from a quality of cut standpoint?
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Wayne S and Bill J - I'm gonna respectfully disagree with Wayne about the bottom bend of the internal rod. I believe the early CCs used a single piece but the 1x8/9 series used a welded tip. I do agree that it is at slightly "less" than a right angle. (It's also possible that IH made a mid-production change during the 1x8/9 series and some used a bent rod, and some used the welded tip). I've seen at least two 169's recently that had the welded tip. All we need to do is have all the guys with manual lift on their 1x8/9 units go look and let us know. Lets GO LOOK GUYS and let us know.
Bill J (under edit) - my 1st name is Hydro, so yes, your shed should be populated with non-gear drive units. As for hydraulic lift, well it's preferred but for some basic units manual lift is fine.
As for your question on the triangular decks vs. the 44/50 - now you went and done it. You're gonna start one of the biggest controversies on here yet.
(hey, on the tire info, I think the narrow fronts are a little easier to steer)
Gerry - made a note.
Mike F - we'll never know the answer since it involves asking a question not allowed, so if you do the message gets poofed and then we don't know and can't post an answer not allowed. I think I got this right
David K - hmm, is that off a V-6?
Bill J (under edit) - my 1st name is Hydro, so yes, your shed should be populated with non-gear drive units. As for hydraulic lift, well it's preferred but for some basic units manual lift is fine.
As for your question on the triangular decks vs. the 44/50 - now you went and done it. You're gonna start one of the biggest controversies on here yet.
(hey, on the tire info, I think the narrow fronts are a little easier to steer)
Gerry - made a note.
Mike F - we'll never know the answer since it involves asking a question not allowed, so if you do the message gets poofed and then we don't know and can't post an answer not allowed. I think I got this right
David K - hmm, is that off a V-6?
