Jeff- the 'defect' is a section worn into the lower flange, by a mule-drive sheave. If you look, theres a similar wear-point on the opposite side of the pivot, too. Pretty common, from what I've seen, and if you think it probably caused the break, you're in agreement with me. I saw that when I installed the axle, and pretty-much expected this would happen eventually.
Fortunately, I was in an ideal location for the failure- the bucket was down low (landed on it, actually) and all I had to do to restore access, to the axle, was to push the bucket down, and lift the nose up.
As for the replacement, I might make the core out of what you suggested... but I'll likely put 1/2" plate facing on front and rear sides, with reinforcement around the pivot, too... similar for the kingpin locations. I'll likely use an extra axle as the template (to get positions and angles correct).
As for hydraulics overpowering one from the other- no, not a scenario... the rams bottom before the knuckles hit their limits, and they retract farther (in operation)than they extend... can't have both bottomed at the same time. Also- the way the steering valve works, it can't push on two cylinders at once- if one's pushing, the other is diverted to tank. I anticipated all these conditions and incorporated the possibilities into the geometry when I put it all together- didn't want the axle to get munched by that very scenario.
In thinking about it, I just might make the new axle with tabs for mounting the steering cylinders (remove steering forces from the frame altogether).
In answer to Terry's question about the final paint job, when I'm done breakin' stuff, and the gas-torch is finally put back in it's storage-spot, I'll think about grinding off all the swarf and slag, mebbie wipin' the worst of the dirt off, and giving it a light shower of some rattle-can yeller paint. Do need to put lights on it, though... it got darned dark out there tonight!
(Message edited by dkamp on December 28, 2004)