Keith O.
Yes it's been done many times by many guys.
The CCC/MTD version had it added from the factory.
Yes it's been done many times by many guys.
The CCC/MTD version had it added from the factory.
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Archive through December 20, 2014
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Harry, Doug - I think blades are where it snows, not just the Midwest.
I've bought attachments like this blade that bolted right on and other stuff I had to modify like my QA-36. And by far you're money and time ahead to get the right attachment to start with. And I have all kinds of welders and torches. It's almost easier to build attachments from scratch than to modify them. AKA, my home made sleeve hitch.
I've bought attachments like this blade that bolted right on and other stuff I had to modify like my QA-36. And by far you're money and time ahead to get the right attachment to start with. And I have all kinds of welders and torches. It's almost easier to build attachments from scratch than to modify them. AKA, my home made sleeve hitch.
sblunier
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- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Keith,
And it's not just for the rattle....those rear arms get flimsy with the bends in them, the brace keeps them solid and bearing the force from the blade.
I have also replaced the front pins with 1/2" rod that goes the full width of the frame, then left it long and threaded the ends. When you snapped on the blade you could put a washer and locknut on the outside of the QA hooks and squeeze a bit to keep everything solid........really made a difference when "Blunier Ramming Speed" (TM) was necessary....
And it's not just for the rattle....those rear arms get flimsy with the bends in them, the brace keeps them solid and bearing the force from the blade.
I have also replaced the front pins with 1/2" rod that goes the full width of the frame, then left it long and threaded the ends. When you snapped on the blade you could put a washer and locknut on the outside of the QA hooks and squeeze a bit to keep everything solid........really made a difference when "Blunier Ramming Speed" (TM) was necessary....
kostendorf
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- Aug 19, 2012
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- 617
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- Keith Ostendorf
Steve,
I did use washers and cotter pins to tighten up the front since there was pin holes in the quick attach pins. I think adding that brace is going to help installation too. Now I can keep the ears lined up while pushing the blade onto the quick attach in front.
I did use washers and cotter pins to tighten up the front since there was pin holes in the quick attach pins. I think adding that brace is going to help installation too. Now I can keep the ears lined up while pushing the blade onto the quick attach in front.
mhomrighausen
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- Sep 20, 2001
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- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Doug B. It's actually pretty easy to convert a wide frame front blade mount to fit a narrow frame. Ian has mine on his 127 at the present. What I did is put the two back pickle forks into the lift rod. You will need to squeeze the pickle forks together and then weld a brace to keep them at the desired distance. Then once you have the pickle forks in place lift up the front of the mounting frame and measure how far back you need to move the front brackets.. Weld the front brackets onto the inside of the frame. BE SURE to measure the front brackets so they fit securely into the holding clip. I did this when I needed a front blade for pushing snow and the Cub fund bank account was dried up.
I modified a WF subframe to fit my 100. I cut it right behind the cross brace and swapped the sides and welded them back on. Now, instead of offsetting in, the rear legs offset out and the forks fit between the frame and foot rests. To attach the front, I made plates that slip over the QA pins and bolt to the frame.
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Adam B. So far I like your fix the best. I looked through your pics, nice modifications you've made to your Cubs, I like that ripper set up, does it work well? Also the pivot for the clutch lever is way nice, you must be a machinist.
Just got back from NAPA. Looks like it's gonna be a busy weekend upcoming!! engine from the 126 and the cradle mod, ISO's and C.I. pan upgrade for the 1650. Now if I could just figure out why in why it won't start worth a crap when cold.....
How does cold weather affect coil-points-plugs??
How does cold weather affect coil-points-plugs??
