Archive through December 20, 2014

[sblunier]

Optical tach and Vibra tach compare very favorably every time I've compared them.......

Have heard more than one report about Tiny Tach's being all over the place....

 

[dtanner]

Steve B

I have a tiny tach`s here and yes it is all over the place when the tractor is running . When I bought it I was thinking it might be great for setting up an engine ; but I soon saw that it was not very accurate .

 

[dlbarnett]

I'd like to thank whoever posted about using the 1/2 in coupler nuts to mount the mule drive etc to the front of narrow frames, makes life way easier.

I've run into a problem mounting the sub frame for the dozer blade on the 123. Where it goes onto the rockshaft, there is a spring assist mounted to the left side of the rockshaft right where the sub frame would slip onto the rockshaft. Any ideas? do I need a different spring assist?

 

[dtanner]

Doug b
You should be able to loosen off the spring on the spring assist and move it closer to the centre of the tractor on the rock shaft. That should give you room for the blade support on the rock shaft.

 

[brhodes]

A few times in the past I’ve poked fun at you guys for how fussy you are with setting your timing and adjustments. For over 30 years, I’ve just used my butt dyno (thank you for that term, I love it) Never thought it would be a big deal as long as the engine ran good. Use the 10-20-30 method, air gap at 0.10, points at 0.20, plug at 0.30 then spend the time on adjusting the carb. Always got the biggest bang for the buck out of air to fuel mixture. WOT just set the governor by ear.
Well over the past few months I’m rethinking that. Most likely as when I use the rototiller I’m thinking if I could get 5% or even 10 % better performance with spending a few bucks and a little time it would be well worth it. May be even save a little wear and tear on the cub. Being conservative I would guess I run a lower RPM 3000 +. Never thought I needed the extra and thought I do not want to push the old girls. This winter and next spring I hope to have more cub time than this past year. So in short you have converted me. I’m going to spend a few bucks on a new tach and timing light The ones I have are from the 80”s and they were never much good any way. I might just find out I was where I needed to be.

 

[dtanner]

Bill R

I use this for all my engine set up. getting them set up now is a breeze and under 20$ with shipping.

Digital Tachometer DT-2234C+ Rievew - YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcmOiEpDT94

he rambles just a bit lol.

 

[brhodes]

Thank you Don That looks easy enough

Bill

 

[dlbarnett]

Don T. I did what you suggested and the sub frame fits the rockshaft now. I'm not really sure how effective the spring assist will work just clamped to the rockshaft. The 122 this blade came off had a spring assist mounted to the outside of the right frame under the fender to the lift rod. Seems like a better set up.

 

[sblunier]

IIRC, the blade subframe "pickle forks" go on the OUTSIDE of the frame rails between the rockshaft hangers and the foot rests, so the spring assist should not be affected.

 

[dfrisk]

Steve - That's where I put them on my 42 inch blade.

 

[sbauer]

Does anyone have a parts list and instructions for motorizing the turn chute for a 364,450 or 451 blower? Thanks for any help.

 

[hydroharry]

Steve B - hey in those 2 pics you posted it looks like you're figuring out how long your lift rod needs to be. You've got the tractor raised on a 2x4. How close is it to being 30"?

Bill R - my 70's timing light (gun) is awhole heck of a lot better than most I've seen around now. I think you'll be surprised at how much better/easier your engine will start and run once you true up the timing.

 

[dlbarnett]

Yup, sure enough. I think I have the wrong subframe. Mine bends inward and gets narrower were it forks onto the rockshaft, about 8-8.5in. maybe its from wide a frame? Hum..... maybe a torch and hammer can make it straight #%&*@$$$#@*% it!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Doug,

QA Wide Frame blade subframe (Note outward facing QA Studs):

QA (or Bolt On) Narrow Frame blade subframe (Note inward facing QA Studs):

Bolt On Narrow Frame blade subframe:

 

[dlbarnett]

Kraig. yup I've got the wide frame one. So was the spring assist on the 122 something someone made to make the mismatch of stuff work? I've got a couple of mower subframes, maybe I can modify one of those.

 

[hydroharry]

Doug B - I doubt you could use a mowing deck sub-frame. If you are really the greatest with a torch and welder I think you could modify the wide-frame blade sub-frame to a narrow-frame version. I think you'll need someone to provide you some exacting dimensions, and I also suspect you'll have to take your sub-frame completely apart at the welds. I believe the NF sub-frame is actually longer than the WF version. Maybe you can make up this difference when you straighten the bends and the curves in the arms. Also, if you didn't notice, the NF version has a slight upward curve at the front starting right at the front of the plate holding the 2 arms together. It would be a lot of work to convert it but could be done. You used to be able to find used sub-frames for $50-75 which would be a better approach in my view.

 

[kostendorf]

Has anyone else added a brace to keep this subframe from making so much noise? Mine vibrated a lot so I added a brace that I can even rap a strap around to keep it Quiet.

 

[dfrisk]

Harry I think it makes more sense to buy the correct subframe & blade and sell the incorrect ones.

My buddy bought my blade at an auction for $75 and it included the lift rod and the clamp-on bracket to attach the rod to the lift lever. It had no paint on any of it, thanks to sitting outside for a couple decades, but the scraping edge had one new unused side. It cleaned up and was repainted nicely.

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis - in your part of the country there are a lot of blades around and you could find a complete blade for $100 or less. Out here on the left coast they are hard to find so I figured it made more sense to try for just a sub-frame. I think places like PA and NY might have a sub-frames since a lot of the blades themselves have rusted away.

 

[dlbarnett]

Harry I'm pretty handy with fabrication.

Dennis I paid $100.00 for this setup. It was pretty rusty, so I painted it up. I know you guys in the Midwest are tripping over this stuff, but Cub Cadets and parts aren't real plentiful around here. I just have to decide if this is one of those things that's worth the time to make work or just bite the bullet and buy the right frame

Keith I like your idea