Ok I have tested the intake for vaccum leaks. None were found.replace filter new gas carb bowl is free of dirt. Pulled the vacuum line off the fuel pump started tractor runs the same. So to me that sound like the pump is not working and the carb is trying to pull gas threw the pump. Not the pump delivering fuel to the carb? How much vacuum should it be pulling @the pump? I put my finger over the line with it running and could feel vacuum. How hard is it to put that mag 20 in?(hahaha)Thanks Jim
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Archive through December 20, 2013
- Thread starter jharder
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Lewis - are you talking about the standard rear tranny cover? Have those if that's the one. Actually just pulled one off a 123 today to change HyTran and filter. Tractor had a IH filter so I'm guessing it hasn't been changed in a while. Not sure the tractors feeling any better but I sure do knowing its clean inside.
Terry Davis
I had removed a filter on my 125 that was probably the original one. seems the nut on the filter was dropped ; but a good idea for filter removal .
I did spend a few hrs today putting a 10 k back into my 102 . was ready to start and my gas can was empty. So I will get some gas in the am and take her out for a run.
I had removed a filter on my 125 that was probably the original one. seems the nut on the filter was dropped ; but a good idea for filter removal .
I did spend a few hrs today putting a 10 k back into my 102 . was ready to start and my gas can was empty. So I will get some gas in the am and take her out for a run.
Harry B.,
Sorry to take so long in replying –
I don’t want to fuel the Great Oil Controversy again (reminds me of political discussions and I don’t want to go there). My opinions on lubricating oil for air-cooled engine applications were formed when, working for Tecumseh products as a mechanical engineer, I was in charge of evaluating various oils for extended oil change intervals. Long story short, the multi viscosity, full synthetic oils far exceeded both straight-weight and multi-weight mineral oils in all respects. Due to the high operating temperatures encountered in these small engines, oil temps can actually exceed 300 deg F under extreme conditions and this quickly causes oxidation and a viscosity increase due to boiling off of the light fractions. The synthetics react much slower to high temperatures and remain serviceable by a factor of approximately 3 times longer than mineral oil equivalents. The lower rate of oxidation keeps the synthetic oil from darkening as rapidly and with stable viscosity, allows oil change intervals to be safely extended.
Lubrication chemistry has evolved greatly since the “low-ash” oil recommendation for Kohler engines, made over 40 years ago. Modern synthetic oils have the stable, chemically formulated base stock combined with additives that both lubricate and protect engine internals much better than the equivalent mineral oils. It is possible to run a 10W-30 full synthetic all year round in your Kohler and you’ll be surprised at how clean the oil appears, even after 50 hours of use. Oil consumption will not be increased as compared to straight-weight oil either. Sticking exhaust valves are a thing of the past, and combustion chamber deposits are greatly reduced. Any reputable brand of full synthetic, such as Mobil 1 or Amsoil, is a good choice.
These are just my opinions based on actual endurance testing of small engines at (what was then) a major engine producer. I’ve run Mobil 1 in my K301 year-round now for the past 12 years and have never experienced any problems. It gets 1 oil change per year, always starts on the coldest of days, and hardly ever requires topping off of the oil level. I would never try and convince others that this is the only way to lubricate their engines – I’m just sharing my experience. And I appreciate your asking.
Dave
Sorry to take so long in replying –
I don’t want to fuel the Great Oil Controversy again (reminds me of political discussions and I don’t want to go there). My opinions on lubricating oil for air-cooled engine applications were formed when, working for Tecumseh products as a mechanical engineer, I was in charge of evaluating various oils for extended oil change intervals. Long story short, the multi viscosity, full synthetic oils far exceeded both straight-weight and multi-weight mineral oils in all respects. Due to the high operating temperatures encountered in these small engines, oil temps can actually exceed 300 deg F under extreme conditions and this quickly causes oxidation and a viscosity increase due to boiling off of the light fractions. The synthetics react much slower to high temperatures and remain serviceable by a factor of approximately 3 times longer than mineral oil equivalents. The lower rate of oxidation keeps the synthetic oil from darkening as rapidly and with stable viscosity, allows oil change intervals to be safely extended.
Lubrication chemistry has evolved greatly since the “low-ash” oil recommendation for Kohler engines, made over 40 years ago. Modern synthetic oils have the stable, chemically formulated base stock combined with additives that both lubricate and protect engine internals much better than the equivalent mineral oils. It is possible to run a 10W-30 full synthetic all year round in your Kohler and you’ll be surprised at how clean the oil appears, even after 50 hours of use. Oil consumption will not be increased as compared to straight-weight oil either. Sticking exhaust valves are a thing of the past, and combustion chamber deposits are greatly reduced. Any reputable brand of full synthetic, such as Mobil 1 or Amsoil, is a good choice.
These are just my opinions based on actual endurance testing of small engines at (what was then) a major engine producer. I’ve run Mobil 1 in my K301 year-round now for the past 12 years and have never experienced any problems. It gets 1 oil change per year, always starts on the coldest of days, and hardly ever requires topping off of the oil level. I would never try and convince others that this is the only way to lubricate their engines – I’m just sharing my experience. And I appreciate your asking.
Dave
lpalma
Well-known member
Terry here is what I am talking about.I have a few of the red ones but they do not have the notch for the fill plug,I guess you could modify it.
Don.T Looks original to me.
Don.T Looks original to me.
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Dave K - great info. How would synthetic oil prevent a stuck exhaust valve vs non synthetic?
Bill J.,
Great question. One of the hottest areas in the L-head Kohler is the exhaust valve stem. Heat from the valve head transfers down the stem and into the guide. Lubricating oil which is present in this high temp area will thicken to the point that it turns into a carbon-based varnish that adheres to the valve stem. Over time, this varnish becomes very hard and takes up the clearances between the stem and the guide. When working the engine heavily, the now-oversized stem will expand to the point that operating clearance is reduced to zero and the valve sticks. This shuts the engine down, valve stem cools down, clearance is re-established, and the spring pops the valve closed again (usually). I've never seen a hint of this carbon "plating" occuring on valve stems used in engines running full synthetic oil.
Dave
Great question. One of the hottest areas in the L-head Kohler is the exhaust valve stem. Heat from the valve head transfers down the stem and into the guide. Lubricating oil which is present in this high temp area will thicken to the point that it turns into a carbon-based varnish that adheres to the valve stem. Over time, this varnish becomes very hard and takes up the clearances between the stem and the guide. When working the engine heavily, the now-oversized stem will expand to the point that operating clearance is reduced to zero and the valve sticks. This shuts the engine down, valve stem cools down, clearance is re-established, and the spring pops the valve closed again (usually). I've never seen a hint of this carbon "plating" occuring on valve stems used in engines running full synthetic oil.
Dave
Tom H - could be right on the NOS filter for sure! And Don T - that nut on the filter would be great for removal. The one I just took off came off pretty easy but was prepared for some good ole medieval persuasion if necessary. Thanks guys
Luther Ray Hinds
I did not know a 782 would have an alternator like the diesel would have ? I would think over 14 v return on both would be good. I think that can be checked by using a meter between the battery wire and battery.No 100 % sure . Lol to early for me.
I did not know a 782 would have an alternator like the diesel would have ? I would think over 14 v return on both would be good. I think that can be checked by using a meter between the battery wire and battery.No 100 % sure . Lol to early for me.
proessler
Well-known member
Amy, I have Carlisle All Trails (23-10.50X12) that I've used for PD's without any traction problems. In fact I replaced the Firestones for winter chain service yesterday. The Firestone 23's are my favorite for looks & traction though.
Tom H.,
There should be no problems with switching from mineral oil to synthetic. It would probably be good practice to run Marvel Mystery Oil mixed in the fuel at the recommended ratio for at least a few tank-fulls. This does a great job of removing hard carbon from exhaust valve stems and ring grooves.
Dave
There should be no problems with switching from mineral oil to synthetic. It would probably be good practice to run Marvel Mystery Oil mixed in the fuel at the recommended ratio for at least a few tank-fulls. This does a great job of removing hard carbon from exhaust valve stems and ring grooves.
Dave
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Luther,
I was just working on the charging system for a Kubota this morning.
2 blue wires out of the Kubota alternator should read over 28V AC when measured wire to wire. Battery should read 14.5V DC when throttle is at 3/4 or greater.
782 gas (KT 17 or Mag 18) should read ~27V AC across the 2 outside wires in the 3 wire harness at the rectifier/voltage regulator and the battery should read 14.5V DC with throttle at 3/4 or higher.
Do these checks and get back to us!
I was just working on the charging system for a Kubota this morning.
2 blue wires out of the Kubota alternator should read over 28V AC when measured wire to wire. Battery should read 14.5V DC when throttle is at 3/4 or greater.
782 gas (KT 17 or Mag 18) should read ~27V AC across the 2 outside wires in the 3 wire harness at the rectifier/voltage regulator and the battery should read 14.5V DC with throttle at 3/4 or higher.
Do these checks and get back to us!
kostendorf
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- Keith Ostendorf
I know someone has tried a electric actuator instead of a hydraulic cylinder for angling the push blade, but I cannot find anything. Is this possible or are they too weak to hold the blade in place.
