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Archive through December 20, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Dave,
I wouldn't be to hip on doing that with my truck. What happens when you get a green stringy kinda' chunk of wood and it goes into the side of your truck.

I'm not following you on the QA question??

Charlie,
Here's one for you,
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:cool:
 
TRISTAN - I'd double check your first driveshaft, it might be short on the engine end also, or maybe both ends, depends on how you hold it in place I guess.

If you talked to Julian and he said they sent you a NF driveshaft then that's what you got I'm sure.

I don't think you need a 6-pin driver, and I'd stay away from an aluminum surfaced clutch, they're an "On-Off" switch, not what you want for beating around in the woods. The Q/L clutch drivers were never really strong, they had to bend to allow the engine to rock around on those rubber mounts and IH chose to do that flexing with the clutch driver. I'd get a new stock driver since they hold up 20 or so years or ask Julian what he'd suggest.

I think I commented before that I went where you're heading with your CC in the clutch department and I went back closer to stock after 150 operating hours in 4-5 yrs and one totally trashed throw-out bearing. Even a tired stock clutch puts more power to the wheels than the tires can ever hope to put to the ground on muddy grassy conditions. I think most pullers solid mount their engines and use a more rigid driver from a NF CC.
 
Dave,

I assume you are talking about setting up a QA-42A for use on a narrow frame tractor.

I looked at the Operator's Manual for the QA-42A, and it states that an adapter package is necessary for use on tractors with serial numbers below 400,000. Maybe this adapter package is a couple of bushings for that lower shaft. I don't see anything else you would need.

I am sure that someone else has at least some experience with a QA-42A and a narrow frame tractor.
 
Charlie,
Thanks for the video. As I said earlier and looking at the guy kicking the log, I would be very careful about using that on my puckup.

Tristian,
With out having a parts book in front of me, isn't there a small, like 1/2", ball supposed to go in at the end of the shaft?? That would make up the difference of the shaft lenghth.
 
Excellent info. on the log splitter.
I have a lead on one, hope I can get it. Thanks!
 
Finally finished the QA36A for the 169..Now all that is left is the tire chains and I will be ready to battle winter if it ever gets here..
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Tom, The lower pivot rod on the QAxxA, when it's set for a narrow frame, allows the mule drive to "float" side to side.
Ken, a couple bushings would work.
Anybody ever drill that rod for a couple hair pins?
 
Guys, be careful with those Unicorn splitters. I was at a demonstration at a farm implement dealer several years ago. The guy had one on the back of an 8N Ford and tried to split a really "narly" block of wood. It ended up bending the stop on the splitter as well as the tractor PTO. The PTO just kept rotating this big block of wood until the guy finally managed to get it shut off. He was lucky no one was seriously hurt.

And, to get this back on a Cub Cadet topic, I have my Hawk Bilt ground saw running. There's just been too much rain around here to stick it in the ground and try it out.
 
Dave,

To answer your original question, when you tighten the drive belt, the drive belt will keep it centered.

So wonder what the adapter package included?
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Those unicorn splitters look like one heck of a shin catcher haha. Also kinda reminds me of the roman chariots with the spikes on the wheels, Charlie Id like to see that video when you put it up, Ive only ever seen hydraulic splitters, be neat to see that one work.

Kevin, thats a gorgeous 169, I like the heim jointed lift rod too.
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Kevin,

Insert an "enter" or return between your text and your picture, so that the picture will be on the left edge and not go too wide across the page.

You just have to "Upload Attachment" again to post the second picture, etc. Just be sure to get that "Enter" between each picture.
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Thanks Ken..Glen, That is just a steel tube with a nut welded on each end and a heim joint threaded in the ends and set to 27"..Much stronger than stock..
 

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