Kraig I've checked that and the new bearing is flush with the end of the crank the new bearing matches with the shot one(yes I Miched it) and reused the old lock collar I'm very close by hand at this point I'm going to use the kiss method and go with the simplest/most likely answer at this point I mean from what I can see by hand anyway the whole theory may blow apart when I fire the kohler up again for a live test in the morning
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Archive through February 03, 2017
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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mgwin
Well-known member
Harry,
No, it's not too late. It stayed below freezing the most of the day, so I just stayed inside and worked on the engine pto.
I already have both frames stripped down, so it will be easy to flip them over.
I tried knocking out the pin with the frame standing on it's rear. Is that close enough to being upside down?
No, it's not too late. It stayed below freezing the most of the day, so I just stayed inside and worked on the engine pto.
I already have both frames stripped down, so it will be easy to flip them over.
I tried knocking out the pin with the frame standing on it's rear. Is that close enough to being upside down?
mgwin
Well-known member
If anyone has a "donor" tractor, (especially a narrow frame) you may want to remove all usable parts while you still can.
I went to take a part off of my donor 100, which does not look all that rusty.
Guess what.... it was much worse than it looked!
I spent most of this past Wednesday removing everything I could. Most of the bolts came out, but several were rusted badly.
With a lot of PB and a lot of care, I managed to get almost all of the parts off.
I went to take a part off of my donor 100, which does not look all that rusty.
Guess what.... it was much worse than it looked!
I spent most of this past Wednesday removing everything I could. Most of the bolts came out, but several were rusted badly.
With a lot of PB and a lot of care, I managed to get almost all of the parts off.
mgwin
Well-known member
Nic,
You mentioned earlier about removing a steering wheel.
When using the "knee and hammer" method, the knees are usually at the 4 and 8 o'clock position.
This puts most of the pressure on the lower part of the steering wheel.
Before hitting the center nut with a hammer, (don't forget to leave a gap) take your other hand and pull up on the wheel at the 12 o'clock position.
This will give an even upward pressure to the wheel, keeping it from binding.
As I said earlier, it has always worked for me.
You mentioned earlier about removing a steering wheel.
When using the "knee and hammer" method, the knees are usually at the 4 and 8 o'clock position.
This puts most of the pressure on the lower part of the steering wheel.
Before hitting the center nut with a hammer, (don't forget to leave a gap) take your other hand and pull up on the wheel at the 12 o'clock position.
This will give an even upward pressure to the wheel, keeping it from binding.
As I said earlier, it has always worked for me.
Attachments
I used Matt G's method of static timing on my K301. After I gapped the points to .020 I was trying to locate the S mark on the flywheel but was unable to find it. I might not have been looking in the right place. Could someone post a pic of where the sight hole is located?
