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Archive through December 20, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
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Kraig McConaughey
Scott T., that hydraulic chute rotator was actually made by Kent Wood back in 2002.
 
William Stock,
The 126 front spindles might bend. You will defiantly burn through bearings. I went through several a year. The rear bearings and axle will be fine. You'll need 300 to 400 lbs of rear weight to make the loader usable. If you fill the tires with fluid you'll get almost 200 lbs. If everything runs and works then 1800 would be a good find.
 
An annual fav, I made mine from a power window motor and a Lovejoy coupling...
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and a movie
http://72.35.72.219/~library/10157/Cub_1751.MOV
 
Kraig,
I wasn't sure, but both tractors were red with front baby moon wheel covers, who would have thunk..
 
782 sprung a leak on trans, things to look for? Started up my 782 let it warm up a while and moved it from one building to another and shut it off. Come back couple hours later and find puddle of oil under trans area. Looked at front of trans area and it's wet all over. Looked at where tractor was parked and in between and didn't see any oil. Haven't had chance to take a good look, but figured I would ask for opinions on possible cause. Been running tractor all summer with no problems. thanks
 
Dan-
As long as you're sure it's not leaking from the rear-cover-gasket...

The first thing I would do is pull the tunnel-cover and look for wetness ontop of the relief-valves. From the amount of fluid you mention, it sounds like something failed.
 
Any more info on the hydraulic chute rotator? That would work better since I am maxing out the amperage capacity of the electrical system already. Hydro power would be free power. Don't think I have ever seen a hydraulic motor like that.
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Home of the Plow Special

Art , I see an add Charlie posted for a free shipping day coming soon.I also see he did not say USA only . well I could use a few parts for my tractors and I think I will send him an order on the 16th. Dang I guess I missed the date .
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This is my setup, with a small gear motor, a few muffler clamps, and a needle valve to control speed. Motor was out of a "misc" bin from Travis at one plow day, don't know what it's off of.

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If you all remember a few weeks ago I tried to install my new mwsc clutch and it came up short. After a couple of phone calls they are saying someone grabbed a narrow frame driveshaft instead of a QL one. Before they go through the process of shipping me another one I wanted to double check what they are saying. The only big difference between my stock shaft and theirs was that it was cut about an inch shorter off the tranny side. Is that the difference between a NF and QL? All the pin holes seemed to be about right, I measured 1/16" difference on the rear pin hole for the rag joint to the front of the shaft. I'd say that is within tolerance, and my measurement might be off up to that much anyhow. Just want to make sure this one gets built right.

My stock rag joint appears to be fine, since I am re-doing the clutch is there any upgrades for a rag joint? Should I just replace it with new stock? Or if it seems fine just leave it alone? They told me most folks ditch the rag joints but I didnt ask what they use instead.

And lastly, some have said to me before about beefing up the driver. I took off my driver to inspect it when I tried to install the clutch. It seemed rather flimsy and felt like it was separating. I am thinking about asking if they can give me a small discount for one of their drivers since they screwed my clutch up, or is there any other stronger drivers available? I am not pulling it, just want it to stand up to some tougher work than most see.
 
Does anyone use anything to hold the tin down to the dash on a quietline series, other than the bolt holes?
 
Norm, I would recommend maybe thin velcro or thin double sided tape would do well as a hold down for the dash tin, mine actually has adhesive residue on the back from a previous owner attaching it.

Dan, Id check to make sure your hydro filter is tight or that your lines running to your lift valve if equipped are tight, my 149 looked like it was leaking from the pickup tube but it was actually the hot hy-tran wicking down the lines and dripping off the front of the trans. I did some poking and found the leak. Make sure the pickup tube is tight too as it can leak being a primary fluid artery on a hydro trans. It could be a failed hydro dump valve like previously suggested by Art, or a seal within the hydro having finally worn out. Good luck and let us know, we like pictures too if youre able to snap a few.
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does anyone know if the hydraulic lift unit set up on a cub cadet 125. will it work on a cub original . thanks
 
Kraig,
Apparently I don't know how to use the search to save my @$$.
Could you please post some pics of the unicorn log splitter on a Cub Cadet?
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Thanks!
 
Kent,

In the Search Menu type "Unicorn" in the text box.

Make sure you "uncheck" the box about searching by date. BTDT

There was a good discussion and pictures on December 18, 2006 archive. Which was the first link returned in my search.

Hope this helps.
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Roger, Yes it will work. You'll need the double pulley for the engine and probly have to drill the mounting holes.
 
Heres one unicorn
What centers the subframe on a QA42A? Does it just float from side to side on the lower pin.
 

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