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Archive through December 19, 2013

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sblunier

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Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
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displayname
Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
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A little air pressure on top of 2 gallons of fluid pushes it right into the tire.....
 
Amy,

I'm with ya... Buy new tires. 4 actually. Tri ribs and Firstones. You won't regret it.

Jim, just I'm with Steve. My Super has a Mag 20 and MUCH stronger than my KT17. (Which is why I have another Mag20 setting on the shop floor ready to go in that 782, and power steering. I can't wait to have my Super 782.)

I just need a Cat 0 on the back with a box blade and a 450 blower on the front. Then Jack Frost better beware. Cause I'm coming after him.
 
Steve, how do you get the air out of the tire? Do you just leave it overnight and let it self bleed?

BTW. I just brought home another blown up IH 782 w/o hood, sides, or grill as parts for mine. AND my first NF! An engineless 70 that some PO hacked up the frame and clutch to put in an OT OHC engine in. From the looks of it, it never worked. It came in a package deal that my Dad brought home.

First thing my 4 1/2 yr old said was... " this is gonna be my pulling tractor!" You bet little guy. It's yours. I already have to hide the keys to the rest of the cubs...
 
Are the Firestones available for the rears at 23x8.50x12
 
Amy it takes 11 gallons of washer fluid for two tires likely you have. About 5 1/2 per . You are bound to have some spillage.
I did this to my 1000 several years ago, and have never regretted it. Just be sure the washer fluid it is rated for
-20 or -25 below zero. There's some out there for just 32 degrees and you don't want that.
 
Nic,

The bong has a schrader valve on the top to add air pressure. The brass valve is a bleeder. Bong is made out of 4" PVC (~48"), with glue cap on one end and threaded clean-out on the other. Holds about 2.5 gallons.

Always "seat" the tube by filling it with air, deflating, and re-inflating before adding fluid.

Process:
1) Hook tube to tire (valve stem removed).
2) Remove 4" threaded cap and add 2 gallons of washer fluid to bong.
3) Close cap and apply 3-5 psig ?(NEVER MORE THAN THAT) to bong to push washer fluid into tire/tube.
4) If tire over inflates, bleed pressure from brass valve and start over with 3-5 psig. Usually takes one bleed per gallon.
5) Repeat process until tire is full to point where fluid is just below valve stem at the 12 o'clock position.

IIRC, 8.50 tires take 5-6 gallons (35-48#), 10.50 take 7-8 gallons (50-65#), and 26x12 take 9-10 gallons (60-80#).

I ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS use tubes with fluid (and prefer to use them in all my L&G tires).

....and congrats on the PS for the 782!!!! 100% agree on the 20hp Mag.....mine is a BIG HORSE on the 2 bottom plow.....

Amy,

I would put 4x8 Deestone tri-ribs on the front.....if it were me......
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I use the break the top bead method.Break the top bead of the tire , off the tractor put a 2x4 under the tire under the stem side stick a big screwdriver in the bead to hold it down pour the washer fluid in till it comes up to the bead then air it up and you are done that easy.
 
Micheal,

While that is a quick and easy fill method, it's hard to do if you want to save your rims and tires from rust by using tubes.
 
Morning everyone. Can't add much on the tire issue but do have a question. Picked up a rear pto for a NF and wondering if anyone has installed one or knows of a step-by-step instruction manual for doing so. My understanding is that they were a dealer/owner installed option so hopefully there was something in print to help with the process? Below is a pic of the parts I have so if something is missing please point it out if you don't mind. Thanks
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JIM H. - Yes, there is a Big Brother to the Kohler KT-17. Kohler made a K-532 and a K-582. I think just about everything to rebuild them is "NLA" from Kohler, and as hard as it may be for us to accept, the Onan is probably a better engine.

I spent an entire day a year or two ago researching Duetz air cooled diesel engines for when my Onan finally gives up, or I give up trying to keep it running right. While a water-cooled engine does make more HP, lives longer, etc... the air-cooled Duetz was a terrific engine, very stingy on fuel, good power, and able to stand amazing abuse, so with a little care it would run forever. I know there has to be a small skid-steer loader or Ditch-Witch trencher out there with a Duetz in it with my name on it.

I knew Onan parts prices were bad, then I rebuilt a K241 Kohler last spring. Kohler parts are stupidly expensive now too. Over $200 for a piston, rings, & wrist pin/keepers, $100 for a conn rod. I guess that's how the engine co's are going to make us give up our good old engines, price the parts sky high, and we'll all buy the new cheap made in China engines. Yeah.... right!
 
Spent a little time plowing yesterday. Finished off the garden. Did about 1/3rd of it on another day with the 1650 and brought it back with one of my other color tractors - wanted to see how they compared with same plow, same soil conditions. The ground was somewhat damp from a rain shower earlier in the week and is starting to freeze/thaw with the colder temps we are getting.

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For whatever reason, the 1650, which I had just used a week or so earlier decided to run very rough under load. Almost seemed like a sticking exhaust valve - not sure. Had to park the tractor on the trailer and finish with the other color tractor.

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Is it my imagination, or is that a 12" plow?
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Yes, that's a 12" Brinly sleeve hitch plow......moldboard brace gives it away (only the 12" had it).

Nice plow.....12" sleeve hitch Brinlys perform wonderfully provided you have the power and weight/traction to stick them in the ground about 7"-8" deep!!!! They leave nice wide furrows to drive in and clear trash well.
 
Dennis,

Kohler's other big brothers to the KT 17 were the KT 19 and 21's, believe it or not. The KT19 was used by Simplicity I think, or possibly Ariens. Parts for these are almost 100% NLA also.

Those K532/582 engines were all cast iron blocks and cylinder barrels. so they weighed a ton!

If you want to repower your 982 someday, you could drop in a Kubota gas from the 2182 or a diesel from the 782 up to the 1782 quite easily. The engine mount bolts right in to a 982.

Putting in one of the Kohler V twins is also simple and yields much improved fuel economy over the flat head engines. I would consider one of the "ECH" models which use the excellent Delphi fuel injection systems, they have been awesome.
 
I'll have to re-measure. I've been thinking all these years it was a 10 inch plow.

I also had a 8 inch plow with me I tried and it actually did pretty good - sort of surprised me. It needed some adjustment, but I didn't really have a time to mess with it. I've got other tractors with narrower rear wheels and feel the reduced pull of the plow would help move things along - besides, the narrower the plow, the more seat time...

So other than measuring the plow and the brace, what is the dead give away that it is a 12 inch plow? I seem to remember measuring it at 10 inches years ago and that and the absence of a gage wheel made me think 10 inch. I know it is one heavy sucker and my old back thinks the 8 inch plow is a lot easier to lug around in and out of the shed and install on the tractor - LOL
 

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