Archive through December 15, 2016

[eford]

Charlie if you didn't like the last pic, well, you wouldn't like what we did!

I've not lubricated the rebuilt starter on my 1200 at all, and it's going on 5 years. Not to say the shop I use didn't put anything on it before they gave back to me.

 

[mhomrighausen]

With all the discussion about installing a muffler onto the side of one's Cub Cadet, I've thought of using the Gravely muffler and just having a longer pipe welded onto the top. Less overall weight and from the two Cub Cadets that I've seen with these on they actually seem more proportional to the size of the tractor.

 

[mpatterson]

Was Aaron's modified Cub that he has on the banner of his web page ever discussed here? The 782D with the square fenders and spoked wheels. Think he did a good job of building it to look like a larger relative.
Anyone ever seen more pictures of it?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mike, I do not believe Aaron has ever posted about it here. That must be rather new as I had not noticed it on his page before. Sure looks pretty!!!

Aaron, we're gonna need details in the Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better'n' new ! ! ! thread.

Oh,

and because it's not yet Off Topic Friday...

 

[digger]

Earl F.
Like Paul B. says, it's mine to do with as I please, and so is yours!

As long as we are all happy with what we do to anything we own, that's all that matters!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, any idea what is sticking up through the tunnel cover on Aaron's custom that I posted below? And any chance you can get Aaron to post some info for us?

 

[aewald]

Kraig - I think he posted about that before, its his hydraulics for back end I think

 

[ccarney]

Matt G

fwiw i use graphite only on a seldom used 782/kt17 ser.2 bendix and it doesn't stick.

it did a lot before that.
I made a wrench for that starter like i think you showed at one point.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Austin, that's what I was thinking it might be. You are correct, here's where he posted about it I completely forgot about it...

 

[digger]

Kraig,
Under Edit.

What Austin said.

 

[mpatterson]

Kraig/Charlie, I still think Aaron should be updating all of us with pictures of the finished product. Need to have a better look all around it!!

 

[rfuller]

Muffler update on my 149. Over Thanksgiving i removed it and knocked out some carbon. I had to leave it sit since I was on the road again after Thanksgiving. My son took it to work and sand blasted the inside and had removed more carbon. He blew it out as best he could with an air hose but it seems like you can get rid of all the blasting sand. I told him it seemed like a good idea but I'm not sure if we should put it back on since there might be sand left inside and concerned about it getting sucked into the cylinder when the valves overlap. What do you guys think?

 

[fcurrier]

Rob, I think you should bite the bullet and put a new muffler on, let someone else worry about it 40 years from now and be glad you don't need one for a 169.

 

[jmusits]

And now the moment you have all been waiting for...

Finally got some time to get everything pulled apart on the K301. Connecting rod was in pieces, piston has piece missing from the sidewall and it looks like some of the rod is fused to the crank. Looks like I will heading to the small engine shop for some machine work...see the pics below. Any guidance or recommendations appreciated.

 

[mfrade]

Rob, I think you're overthinking this.

Bolt it on and let it fly.

 

[hydroharry]

Jason - well, looks a little worse than I expected and hoped. Since the rod broke so high up and the piston has a chunk missing I'm wondering if you're missing any of the sidewall of the cylinder. Can't see it in your pics. Have a look at the bottom edge of the cylinder wall but view it from the bottom (from the oil pan side) and let us know if there are any chunks missing. Your block might be toast if there's a bid chunk out of the wall. Sometimes you're ok if it's only a small piece.

I'd also be interested in what Nic has to say here.

 

[nbextermueller]

Jason, I recommend making sure it has oil before you run it next time. Then change it regularly.

Rod seize to cranks due to lack of oil or terribly dirty oil.

 

[hydroharry]

Nic - you had advised Jason before to do the rebuild himself. I'm wondering if you still recommend this.

 

[jmusits]

Harry - I must have dodged a bullet as there is no visible damage to the cylinder wall.

Nic - I do keep up on periodic oil changes and check levels regularly. This engine did not burn oil.

I think my next step is to take this to my local small engine repair shop and have them evaluate things and see what they recommend. This is no longer "slap in a new rod and put things back together" job. I'm guessing I will need to have the crank ground to clean it up from the rod seizing on it. That piston is toast, right?

Anything I should be on the lookout for with the guys at the shop? Anything to request they do or look at specifically?

Thanks!

 

[nbextermueller]

I advised him doing it himself if the crank was fine.

Besides having the crank cleaned and turned. I still advise complete assembly by him, at home. Only one way to learn...

Jason, the oil went somewhere. Or it was dirty enough to plug the one and only oiling hole on the rod. How much oil was in it when you drained it to take apart?

It could have also just lost the dipper due to age, then seized the rod. Either, enjoy the rebuild. Nothing more statifying then hearing an engine you assembled come to life.