Archive through December 15, 2016

[eford]

Charlie

Marlin, hmm. That actually looks cool. I had a Stanley AC-4 on my Case before for height(I think it was that) that one bit a tree as I nearly knocked some sense into myself. Luckily I didn't and still work on tractors.

Here's a question, what muffler is original to my 100? I have a "pancake" as I refer to them, on it now. Was it like the 1x4/5 series?

 

[nbodin]

I would have to agree with Nic. That is the best way to learn is by doing it. Get yourself a kohler K series engine book and read through it a few times before you start.

 

[kshultz]

Jason,
I third what Nic & Nate said.
Do it yourself. You'll be glad you did.
Now if it was a two cylinder, I would be scared.

 

[dschwandt]

Jason, I'd also spring for a new governor, shaft and bushing. You don't want to do this over again as a disintegrated gov will yield nearly the same results as you are looking at now.

I agree on the manual and thorough study of it. It spells out, step by step, disassembly and reassemble steps. You can download it and copy the pages to have at arms length when doing the job, however some of the pictures will be really dark and make details hard to make out.

I'm going through that scenario now on a 12HP from my friends 1200 that ate the governor this fall. Block is still awaiting post mortem. GGRRRRR

 

[mfrade]

Let's make it a fourth! Do the rebuild / repair yourself. Take the parts ( Block and Crank) to the machine shop ask them to measure it up and ask them for advice. You can get the next up sized piston and have them re-do the bore to fit, you can also use muriatic acid to help remove the "material" from the crank, wash it clean before the machine shop sees it, the acid is murder on the ends of a micrometer!

Once they've done all the machine work, do the re-assembly and enjoy the ride!

Aluminum connecting rods only have some many hours of runtime available. Yours reached it's limit.

 

[hydroharry]

Geez - I'm surprised at all the recommendations for Jason to do the rebuild. Even when I was in the Navy it was "see one, do one, teach one". If Jason hasn't seen one of these rebuilt before his own eyes, I'm not sure I'd recommend it - but I sure got out-voted.

 

[fcurrier]

Harry, the secret is the Kohler manual. It leads you through a disassembly and reassembly step by step. An impact wrench is nice when it comes to removing the flywheel nut.

 

[jstertz]

Has anyone on he retrofit a 364 blower to a 1x9 series tractor? If so, can you clue me in on how difficult or simple that might be and what kind of complications that would lie ahead? Maybe there is a thread that Kraig could hook me up with...
I found one that I'm going to buy and I'm thinking of giving it to my dad for a Cmas present to put on the Chief in place of the QA-42. I don't want to do anything to the 364 that can't be returned to original if so desired in the future given the relative rareity of those blowers...

 

[digger]

Joshua S.
Good luck trying to do that, LOL
Since the frame covers the entire tractor and the frame is 3" to short, plus belt is 5/8" and the weight is almost 3 times what a QA is, I'd stay away from that deal, LOL
Not to mention you would work the life right out of a 1x9 machine trying to keep it going.

 

[jmusits]

Wow you guys really know how to talk a guy into something! When I went to bed last night, I had no intentions of doing the re-assembly myself...now you guys got me thinking.

Other than a torque wrench (and standard sockets/wrenches etc) are there any specialized tools I need? ie: piston ring compressor, widget xyz extractor, etc

Nic - Oil level was in the upper half of the acceptable range on the dipstick immediately after the incident.

What do you guys think about the busted skirt on that piston? If the cylinder doesn't need to be over-bored should I replace the piston? I guess I am worried about it being out of balance with the chunk missing.

Thanks!