Archive through December 15, 2012

[jjsmith]

Small progress made on the 1650 today. It finally got the bath it need badly. On the plus side the paint isn't quite as bad ince all the gunk was removed. I've got the cradle mod done, set of iso miunts waiting, just have to find a coupler and I can start reassembly. Can't wait to fire it up again so I can get the pile of wood hauled out of the backyard and presently its the only one without any weights on it so it will fit thru the gate. Thanks to everybody on here and the information avail

 

[rfuller]

picked up a used spindle for a 44C deck. This one has the Aluminium housing with the tappered bearings. It was taken apart. I see how it goes back together. But since the shaft slides around from end to end. Are there any instructions on how to put it back together? Seems like there should be a starting point so the shaft dones not stick out too much on the one end or the grease hole in the shaft will not line up correctly.

Thanks,

Rob

 

[nbextermueller]

Last Off topic pic of the day, I promise. This happen to be my most "apart" tractor.

But this does apply for on Topic tractors too.
Regarding the debate of STD frames vs. Super frame sizes. I went out to measure them. The difference is 6" between the front of the fenders and the noted hole.

Notice on my 782. The holes are nearly behind the fenders...

In retrospect, I suppose I could have marked up my 782 picture. But who wants to mark up a real IH 782?

And for that hard to read measurement at the bottom, ut's 57 1/2"

 

[digger]

Rob F.
Click the Parts Look up thingy above and enter 190-358-100 for the model number and it will show you an exploded parts diagram of that spindle.

Or Part Number 959-3293

 

[digger]

Nic B.
I'd really like to see you start your own thread in the CCC/MTD section, that way we could have a good spot for others to check in case they decide to do a project like that, and it wouldn't get lost in the archive here.

 

[pbell]

Dtanner,
One small problem is you have a creeper from a wide frame that you want to put in a narrow frame. The creeper is the same for either frame, but the shift lever is not. The wide frame lever will rub/drag on the side of the slot in the tunnel and will hit the end of the slot before the shift is complete, because of the way it is indexed, unless you (1)heat and reshape the lever, or (2) swap the lever for one from a narrow frame creeper. Switching the lever would be the best bet.

 

[rfuller]

Charlie,

I've seen that. Just didn't know if you had to thread the pulley nut on to a certain measurement before assembly everything? Something like that. If that's all you have to do is put it together and not worry about how the grease hole or something lines up. Then it's easy, just don't want to put it together and find out something has to be "set" before tightening it all together.

 

[digger]

Rob F.
I did one a while back and I just put everything together and tightened it up and it works fine.
Just make sure and put everything in the right order.
They can be a PITA! LOL

 

[lpalma]

Don T,
Keep us posted on the surgery on the 126.A 147 frame would be nice if Frank C can get one at Colchester in the spring...

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - as much as there has been discussions about going with more HP on the gear drive units, there has also been some discussion about the weak link in the complete gear drive set up - that being the spring roll pin in the coupling connected to the rearend. I've seen discussions there are alot of old 7 and 8HP units running around with the original roll pin, but the 10 or 12hp units seem to blow this pin out at some point. It may be in part why IH went to a combination rag joint on the WF and QL units. You might want to consider something stronger than standard for your 14HP plan, and I don't know how much that Creeper can handle either.