Archive through December 15, 2007

[rchristensen]

Matt G. It's been awhile since I replaced Rag joints, but I think the Quiet line and the 82 series were the same. The earlier version used on the 1XX series were different.

When I replace Rag joints I do a little extra so they last a long time. The problem with the later Rag joints is there is less rubber due to the large hole in the center, so they tend to warp or rotate and get out of balance.

I double up on the Rag joints on both the front and the back of the drive shaft. If I remember right you have to use a rag joint with the larger center hole due to clearance but you can back it up with one of the older version with the small center hole, making a extra strong Rag joint.

When I double up the Rag joints front and back, I bolt them on the end pieces and to the engine and the rear end. Then measure and build a new drive shaft to the correct length. It takes a little longer and cost more but once they are done they last a long, long time. If you use your Cub for plowing or extra tough pulling this is the way to go.

Front:

Rear:

 

[dgallagher]

I have a 169 that is hard to start. I have rebuilt the carb, adjusted by the manual, new points. It runs like a sewing machine after I get it running, but requires on and off choking, and a lot of grinding. It's a Kohler carb.Any ideas? Thanks.

 

[schase]

Hello everybody, I'm not sure if I'm doing this right but bear with me, I recently got a 1962 Cub in a barter deal, I figured I'd just sell it,...but I'm kinda falling for this thing, I got it to turn over for a second or two but its not running yet, The starter/generator is very weak, after removing the belt I could hold it from turning with two fingers, I think it should be more powerful. Its a 7 horse kohler, that was being used a few years back and running well. Anybody know where I can get a new starter/generator,...any tips, this little tractor is cool, I run heavy equip, some this is right up my alley,....just a bit smaller -

 

[lhinds]

Steve the sponsors at the top of the page will have anything you will need for this tractor.
Luther

 

[digger]

Steve C.
Before I would give up on the S/G, I would clean all the ground connections and battery terminals and put some dielectric grease on everything and see if that helps. Cubs are known for weak grounds, especially after 40 years of neglect.
Also make sure that your battery is 100%.

Of course I say that after mine on the 149 shot craps on me the other day.

 

[digger]

David G.
You say you rebuilt the carb.
What in your eyes means rebuilt?
Did ya soak it in carb cleaner or just clean it up with spray stuff?
Details, we gotta have details.

 

[dphelps]

Steve C
In addition to what Luther said, a local starter/alternator shop could rebuild what you have. Well maybe. Hopefully both the wiring and battery are ok.
Also, check the FAQs at the top of the page, including Charlie's CubFAQ, #47 and 47a.

And the Kohler K series engine manual is a free download from Kohler website.

Richard C, good cardboard tutorial, good to see you signing your work.
dp

 

[dphelps]

Charlie, you must type 90 words a minute!

 

[digger]

David,
Noper, I do around 20, but I do it fast.

 

[rwilke]

Wes H.,
I'd suggest you simply use a bag of rock salt to break up the frozen ruts along your drive and walkway. Yes, it will track in some - just like sand - but no one fell, which is what you are trying to prevent. If you put down too much too often, it'll rinse/drain over to the grassy edge and it could put stunt your grass growth come Spring, but enough snow melt and rain will dilute it and the grass will come back.

David P.,
Did you get your walk-behind running yet?

Wyatt C.,
What did you fill the "casting pits" with, JBWeld or ???

Mark G.,
NICE 149 Find! Looks like it'll be a fine work horse! Go thru all the related FAQs, including getting the hydro flushed out, release valve buttons freed up, freshen up your driveshaft with a fan with blades and new rag joint and new spirol pins (Any of the good sponsors listed above can help with those parts) and you'll probably be tilling with that 149 come Springtime in style!

Ryan W

 

[wcompton]

Ryan-
I used a high temp epoxy. At a former employer we found that some end-users used it in a service application to re-attach studs in manifolds. It wasn't a "factory authorized" fix, but the guys that used the stuff swore on it. Can't remember the name of it (I put that stuff on about 5 years ago) but it came in little divided tins like what you'd get your jelly at a resturant.

 

[dgallagher]

Charlie: I soaked the carb in a cleaner, put in new gaskets and replaced the needle valve and seat, also soaked all of the springs, screws and other parts in the cleaner. I replaced the points and checked the gap twice, replaced the coil-to-points wire. Also a new gas filter. I set the RPMs with a gauge. The hard starting is something I can live with, but my other cubs start right up. Thanks.

 

[wcompton]

Question-
Has aneyone retrofitted their Kohler with a 25 amp stator in lieu of the factory 15 amp stator? I'd like to have the option of adding two extra 35W lights without running the system as max output. I know there's a 30 amp available, but it looks like it requires a different flywheel.

 

[jbliler]

It does really help to take apart and blow out the carbon dust inside of a generator. Also a can of ELECTRIC MOTOR cleaner gets them new looking again CARB CLEANERS will ruin the windings fast!!!
You might be due for new brushes, they are really cheap too. If the armiture is burnt black some very fine sandpaper cleanes it up and really helps with the output.

 

[kide]

Wyatt:
A little OT, but it's interesting to note that most of the hit-or-miss stationary engines had filler applied over the castings before they were painted (not sure what they used before Bondo was invented, probably some mixture of cow dung and lead....)

 

[kweaver]

Wyatt - Since it's a Kohler you should'a used porcelain as a filler
Check this out. I've ordered from them 8 years ago.

 

[rchristensen]

David G. On the hard starting 169 I would be checking the coil. A weak coil can cause symptoms like that.

 

[aaytay]

David-
I agree with Richard. I've had that bad coil/hard to start situation with a 10hp I had here, but it usually only showed up after the engine was warm. Either way, it could be a weak spark.

Also, when you rebuilt the carb did you check the float-height? I wonder if you're carb's fuel bowl is either too high or too low?....

 

[jharvey]

David
If choking helps in starting hot or cold maybe the throttle shaft is worn letting air into the combustion chamber. Compare the 169 to one of your better starting cubs.
JH

 

[wmiller]

Wyatt-Ken When I worked for the railroad we used Pyro-Putty on cracked turbo charger inlets on GE diesel locomotives and it withstood the heat really well. We would put it on the inlet flange and the apply the transition (exhaust inlet) section and allow to cure before starting. When we later went to replace the turbo we sometimes had great difficulty separating the exhaust section from the turbo flange. The stuff works really good,but be a little careful where you use it.