Archive through December 12, 2013

[dtanner]

Well I did make some head way . And then the refreshment's caused a slow down in completion ! I will see this run soon .

carb and some other parts and VVVRRROOOMMM .

 

[dtanner]

Terry Davis
I would treat breathers in a creeper or a snow blower gear box the same. Mix my grease and fluid together and add it. I know I will never have an issue with lubrication of either.The liquid lube you use to the harder grease will run at any temp and provide Maxim lube where it is needed . My .02

 

[digger]

Terry D.
Do not use grease in the UD-6.
Use Hytran or what the installation manual says,

 

[tcbusch]

Need help installing a spring on a narrow front remote hydraulic pump.
The spring is item #41.

Based on the picture it looks like the pints on the end of the spring are pointing up like this.

However, not sure which side of the roll pins the spring goes. Here is a picture without the spring.

I don't think this is right.

So does it go above or below pin 1?
does it go above or below pin 2?
does it go above or below pin 3?
does it go above or below pin 4?

 

[jclazar]

Cub Cadet
original equipment approved
[ SAE 85W-140 ]
737-3065 { 1 quart }
- prevents gear damage
- stops objectionable deposits and corrosion
- For use in gear cases, to protect bearings, rollers, races, and thrust washers.

Can be found at your local Cub Cadet dealership. I always use IH Cub Cadet recommended lubricants and fluids when ever possible.

 

[dtanner]

I use snow mobile cold temp grease and 90/140 oil and mix them to a paste. I bet the mix is as good or better than just one or the other. mixed gets a better temp coverage range. my .02

 

[danderson]

Terry-http://www.cubcadetman.com/content/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=103:hydraulic-pump&catid=55:hydraulic-pump&Itemid=53

 

[tbdavis]

Thanks all - think I'll go with HyTran. Stuff lasts bout forever in the rear ends so should be happy as a clam in the creeper.

 

[tcbusch]

I remembered Wayne sent me a picture a few months back. I should be good to go. All put back together and filled with Hytran.

 

[fcurrier]

... and Doug, thanks for that link to Paul F.'s site.

 

[hydroharry]

Where's Dennis at? Here's a link to Paul F's site where he shows a driveshaft worn from the thro-out bearing. I knew it wasn't just my driveshafts.
http://www.cubcadetman.com/content/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=52:clutch-removal-and-disassembly&catid=39:clutch-removal-and-disassembly&Itemid=53

 

[hydroharry]

Guess I could'a posted his pic of what a worn driveshaft looks like

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell

The drive shaft I just finished yesterday just had a single roll in the pins on the clutch face plates. I see the drive shaft you have there has a much stronger pin and I wonder if I need stronger pins than the single rolled pins for those clutch plates ???

 

[jdiederichs]

Donald,

The quick answer is YES, you need to use spiral pins, not roll pins for the clutch. Spiral pins are much more durable and last. Roll pins, not so much

 

[dtanner]

Jim D

Looks like I better pull the 10 and remove the drive shaft and replace those pins now. I did have the coiled pins and just put back what was there that the PO used

. I will get er done . thanks for the quick answer

 

[jclazar]

I believe the T.O Bearing will in fact, wear on a drive shaft, that is where the T.O Bearing affixes on the shaft. I had the 72 drive system rebuilt, and a good shaft installed. The old shaft could be used in a pinch, but the person who has worked on these all his life deemed the replacement necessary. Did I ever read about a grease fitting made into the T.O Bearing?

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - I'm in agreement with Jim. If that roll pin breaks and that clutch plate starts flying around there is no telling how much damage it might do. If you got the spiral/spirol/double roll pins (which ever you want to call them) please use them. If ya don't got'em, well, you're takin' a chance. I wouldn't think you'd have to pull the engine to replace them. I'd rig up some type of support under the driveshaft and just R and R them. You just had them out so they should come out fairly easy (with the correct tools).

John L - I think the later wide frame may have had a thro-out bearing with a grease zerk, but I'm not sure if it greased the driveshaft or the ball bearing. If you could keep the driveshaft greased up I think it would certainly avoid the wear on the driveshaft. Seems to me the action of the lever on the thro-out bearing has to put some twisting pressure on the bearing causing friction wear on the spinning shaft. Having some grease would certainly help avoid it. Where's Dennis when ya need his input (maybe he's out greasing his driveshafts).

 

[akleyla]

Ok,so my lift handle button broke an I got a new one today to replace it. It looked like I could just unscrew the old button but can only get needle nose down the hole to loosen it an its not budging. Anyone have an idea how to remove the old button an replace it ? Im hoping to get it replaced before the snow gets here....ty

 

[kmcconaughey]

Amy, that was a tough repair to do back when the Cubs were only a few years old, BTDT! More than likely you'll have to deal with a bit of rust on the threads so it's not going to be easy. I hate to say it but you may have to remove the lift arm/rockshaft assembly so you can turn it upside down to get some penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil, etc.) into the threads. Also removing the ratchet assembly (parts # 8 & 9 in the drawing below) may allow the internal rod to rise up a little bit more so you can get a better grip on the top button. Hopefully someone will post a better way to do it...

 

[cjrolke]

Amy

the easy way would be to find another lift arm

I have to change out one on my sons tractor
( the button broke and the lock is gone and the grip is missing as well