-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through December 12, 2013
- Thread starter dtanner
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Amy, the float button, part #4, does NOT have to come out in order to remove the top button, part # 1. The float button is press fit in and does not come out easily.
HARRY = I'm here.
JOHN L. - once again in case you didn't read my last half dozen posts, the T/O bearing IS a Bearing BECAUSE it turns WITH the driveshaft. The only reason it's not tightened down tight to the DS is because it has to slide back & forth a half inch to release the pressure on the clutch plates.
The DS. pressure spring, TO brg, teaser spring, clutch pressure plates, ands when engaged, the friction disk all spin with the engine.
When the clutch pedal is depressed, the shielded outer race of the TO brg contacts the clutch release lever while the inner race turns with the driveshaft, the release lever pulled the pressure off the clutch plates and the friction disk spins between them. The lever and outer race of the TO brg do not spin.
The drive shaft Harry posted the picture of was probably rn in a CC with a bad TO brg for 20+ YRS. Bet the clutch release lever was shot too.
The inner & outer races of those TO brgs were probably made from 52100 Bearing grade steel years ago, hard telling what the import suppliers use now, but the 52100 grade steel is not the BEST steel made, it's still many times better at resisting wear than the 1018 CRD IH used on CC drivceshafts, and I bet the inside of the inner race of the TO brg used with that driveshaft showed little if any wear. And the inner race is slightly oversize from the 5/8" dia. of the DS, so with that DS worn that much, I bet there wasn't much contact between the DS & TO brg anyhow, so in that case, it may not have been spinning, but it should have been. I bet the clutch pedal linkage was making all kinds of racket when you pushed the pedal down.
That's a perfect example of maintenance neglect, operator abuse, and just plain ignorance and stupidity in how the machine operates.
JOHN L. - once again in case you didn't read my last half dozen posts, the T/O bearing IS a Bearing BECAUSE it turns WITH the driveshaft. The only reason it's not tightened down tight to the DS is because it has to slide back & forth a half inch to release the pressure on the clutch plates.
The DS. pressure spring, TO brg, teaser spring, clutch pressure plates, ands when engaged, the friction disk all spin with the engine.
When the clutch pedal is depressed, the shielded outer race of the TO brg contacts the clutch release lever while the inner race turns with the driveshaft, the release lever pulled the pressure off the clutch plates and the friction disk spins between them. The lever and outer race of the TO brg do not spin.
The drive shaft Harry posted the picture of was probably rn in a CC with a bad TO brg for 20+ YRS. Bet the clutch release lever was shot too.
The inner & outer races of those TO brgs were probably made from 52100 Bearing grade steel years ago, hard telling what the import suppliers use now, but the 52100 grade steel is not the BEST steel made, it's still many times better at resisting wear than the 1018 CRD IH used on CC drivceshafts, and I bet the inside of the inner race of the TO brg used with that driveshaft showed little if any wear. And the inner race is slightly oversize from the 5/8" dia. of the DS, so with that DS worn that much, I bet there wasn't much contact between the DS & TO brg anyhow, so in that case, it may not have been spinning, but it should have been. I bet the clutch pedal linkage was making all kinds of racket when you pushed the pedal down.
That's a perfect example of maintenance neglect, operator abuse, and just plain ignorance and stupidity in how the machine operates.
Amy, I just thought of one reason why you might want to remove the float button, to use a punch to try to turn the top button. Not sure if it could work or not though.
AMY, KRAIG - I wouldn't remove the float lock button unless you have to. Since it's a press fit, thee's only so many removeals/installs before a new bitton will not stay in.
With the rockshaft & lift lever removed, the inner rod should push up enough you should be able to get a pliers, vice grips, even a small pipe wrench on the broken portion of the top button to remove it. Just be REAL careful to not twist the top of the threaded inner rod off. It's a much more involved repair. Even my old parts book says it was not a "Repair part, MUST purchase complete lift lever/rokshaft assembly".
With the rockshaft & lift lever removed, the inner rod should push up enough you should be able to get a pliers, vice grips, even a small pipe wrench on the broken portion of the top button to remove it. Just be REAL careful to not twist the top of the threaded inner rod off. It's a much more involved repair. Even my old parts book says it was not a "Repair part, MUST purchase complete lift lever/rokshaft assembly".
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Amy - you're in trouble. Best to start looking for a used replacement assembly. Some on here have been able to fix these but every time the top of the button broke off for me either I could never get ahold of the remaining part - or when I did I couldn't turn it - or if I did get ahold of it and tried turning it just snapped the top threads off the rod. And I tried all kinds of penetrating oil like Kraig recommended.
If you really "think" you can get ahold of your remaining button part, I would definitely remove the entire assembly and then heat that sucker up before you start twisting on it. For some reason that dang button just seems to rust in place. You need that heat to bust the rust loose. I never had my own heat to use (was always too scared if I had it I might end up cutting up a Cub Cadet in a fit of rage).
Good luck with it.
If you really "think" you can get ahold of your remaining button part, I would definitely remove the entire assembly and then heat that sucker up before you start twisting on it. For some reason that dang button just seems to rust in place. You need that heat to bust the rust loose. I never had my own heat to use (was always too scared if I had it I might end up cutting up a Cub Cadet in a fit of rage).
Good luck with it.
