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Archive through December 12, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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PAUL - Yes, I know ALL about the two different bore sizes but didn't add that fact into my post because it would have made a too long post even longer. When you figure out the specific engine output per CID, the .7133 CID increase of the 2-15/16" bore over the 2-7/8" bore in displacement equals about 3/10ths of a horse power. I'm not sure but doubt you'd be able to notice that small 4% increase in HP. To me, the real advantage is the fact that once the early small bore K161's were bored to .030" O/S you could bore them to 2-15/16" and start over again with the +.010", .020", .030" O/S pistons and double the life of the block.

You look at the HP & torque charts and the 1/4" longer stroke in the K181 makes much more difference while adding 1.694 CID compared to the larger bore K161. When we installed the K181 in the 70 we noticed a distinct improvement in performance when mowing.

I agree that the 7 & 8 Hp tractors perform WAY better than they have any right to seeing that even push mowers have 5-6 HP motors on them now days. I used my 70 off and on all summer to pull my big tandem axle dump cart, which weighs about 600# empty to haul mulch, tree trimmings, etc. Only down side to the 70 is it doesn't have hyd remotes like the 982 so I couldn't dump it. I also run my 12V 15 gal sprayer with the 70, pulling the small cart with the sprayer & hose in the cart. 2-3 yrs ago when I used my 50 gallon sprayer to spray the yard a couple times I used the 70 to pull/run it. Main reason is because it'll run at idle all day on a quart or two of gas.

My 70 was bought new in May, 1965 after the cogged timing belt on the timed 38" deck on the '63 original broke for the second time. That belt was $22 back then. Not really that much more expensive now. The 70 was mowing two large farm yards around an acre each in size, and both had some hills or banks to climb, and depending on how much road bank we mowed could be up to 1-1/2 acres each. The K161 was rebuilt in 1968, and again in 1971, then replaced with a K181 in 1974. I don't know if it was a good thing or not, but the K161 would pull the 38" deck most places in the slow 16T 2nd gear, but it was a load for it when the grass was four inches or more tall.

With my #72 when I got it, w/K181 & 38" deck, I could run a few places in the 72's fast 19T 2nd, but not until I put the K241 in it could it really handle it. I had a small yard and did most of my mowing in 1st gear.

I do remember over-hearing a manufacturing engineer at FARMALL saying the 7 & 8 HP CC's didn't have the drive shaft roll pin problems the 10 HP & larger GD tractors did. The back roll pin hole on the drive shaft where the coupler connects to the input pinion shaft would elongate, then hammer away at the roll pin and eventually break it. That back hole is the only place one 1/4" dia roll pin drives the whole tractor, the hardened pinion shaft won't wear, and all the other roll pins around the clutch only handle half the load. My 72 did that about five years after I installed the K241 in it, then sheared that pin again after 14 more years. The 1965 model 70 I have that Dad bought new probably still has the factory drive shaft & roll pin in it after 47 yrs.

I agree, as a die hard gear drive guy, I like running the old 70 with the K161 or 181 in it, not sure what engine is actually even in it anymore, but I think it's a 181. It saves wear & tear on the larger CC's for the small jobs and saves a little gas in the process.
 
James S - yes you're gonna need some weight on the 149 in order to really be able to use your thrower. I prefer the weight to be on the rear wheels and Craig provided you some links to discussions about making some weights.
With regard to your throttle problem, although your spring is pulling the throttle back, I suspect what's actually happening is your throttle cable is probably slipping within the clip holding it. If so, you could wrap some black electric tape around the cable and re-insert into the clip. If the clip isn't your problem then it could be the cable tension on the throttle handle as Don T mentions, and there should be a nut on the side of the handle (under the dash) to put more tension on it.
 
Kraig,

Thanks for those links on concrete weights.

Donald, thanks for the info on the throttle friction nut, I bet that's the solution.

One last question. How much weight is ok to put on the rear hitch. If I put 100-150 lbs on there am I going to break something?
 
James, that drawbar should easily handle 150 lbs of vertical weight. The issue would be how far behind it, is the weight going to be. The farther back it is the more of a lever it becomes and that's where you'll get into trouble.
 
HARRY - Yes, that few hundred pounds more or less weight than the other truck really effected our ability to run together within CB radio range that day. We always drove those trucks flat out, they were geared to run 67 MPH and when they were newer we could make pretty good time across northern IL.

I mentioned that story only to highlight the fact that a very small amount of additional load on an engine can make a LARGE difference in percieved performance. The engines in both identicle trucks were 903 CID V8 diesels, 320 HP, 850-875 #/ft of torque, same exact gearing & drive tires. The faster truck would take 10-20 miles to get out of radio range depending on hills, head wind, etc, then slow up a bit and let the other truck catch up.

I read your comment about having to blow snow going uphill. Like you're saying, I suspect the weight transfer off the rear wheels when going down hill let you get going too fast, feeding too much snow into the blower and bogging the engine. Going uphill gave you better traction, you could match load & speed better. Like Steve B said in his post, you just have to experiment and see what works best for your conditions. And MORE HP always helps. That's why my #1 snow moving tractor weighs 7000# and makes 250-260#/ft of torque @ 1000 RPM. If that isn't enough my #2 snow moving tractor also weighs 7000# but makes 350-360+ #/ft of torque @ 800-900 RPM. The CC 70 is #3 snow moving tractor for snows of only 1-2 inches. The other two Cubbies seldom ever get run in winter.
 
Well I got no answer on my 125 wiring problem; so I thought I would rebuild the carb for the 123. That leaves me with a question also. The throttle shaft is much longer in the kit that the one I took out.
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Is this a problem ? or should I just install the longer shaft ?

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Well IT seems the two shafts are completely different;One has a flat area for the throttle controll and the one in the kit does not . the one in the kit is 1/2" longer and round
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Don T - it's not like I'm ignoring you, I just don't have an answer on your "no spark" and new V/R. I do think you need to re-check how you've run your wires compared to the chart/diagram (Kraig always seems to post it) for 2 styles of V/R's. Your post sounds as tho you have 4 wires to the V/R, and I don't know how you could. I'm only aware of 3. Your V/R terminal marked L is for Load and that is not used on a CC unit, so I hope you have 3 other terminals.
On your new throttle shaft, can't tell from your pic if it's a problem. Need to see the type of lever that screws onto it, or is sometimes brazed onto it, although my memory is not good on the variations but someone will help with better pics.
 
Harry Bursell

There are 5 wires in the front harness for a 125. One is headlights .

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Don T and Kraig - Oops, I stand corrected. The "L" terminal is used on O's and 70/100 units. Since I never had one of these I should have said the L terminal is not used on a CC unit "that I've owned". It looks to me like you need to leave your "L" terminal open, and connect terminals B (Battery), F (Field) and G (Generator - not ground). If you have a Ground wire in your harness I believe it just connects at the mounting screw for the base on the V/R.

Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos, and all other relevant data, documents, references, rituals, details, whatyamaycallits, thingamajigs, etc - YOUR SUPPORT is truly the GREATEST!!!!!
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I bet I just made Charlie happy !
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Now on to something else while I Waite for a new Voltage regulator for my 125. I need to go look at my parts stash and find a build-able 26 carb for the 123.
 
Kraig your the MAN

I am printing that off that last drawing for the cub wall in the shop
 
Don T, the shorter one you have is for the clamp on throttle linkage, the longer one is for the one like below (picture taken from Charlie).

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Don T - I think you may have given up to quick on your V/R. I thought it was already a "new" one since that's what you said in your 1st post. Now it sounds like it was a different one (used). I certainly would have tried a known good one from aother tractor to make sure you don't have some other issue, like a problem in the wiring harness.
And by the way, on your carb, you might only need a bushing that fits in the little depressed area on the top of the carb. It will hold and keep the shaft in place. Sorry I don't know the size, but it's known by others on here and a good hardware store will likely have them. If your wife is retired now, then send her to the store to get one (hehehe).
 
Lucas Jones

Yes that is the shaft repair kit I got for the one you posted. but I did not know they were different and now have ordered some bushings that Charlie sells. i wanted to repair a carb like this that has a different upper shaft.

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Harry LOL

It would do me no good to try and send here for parts;It would take longer to giver her all the information that for me to go myself.

That VR was new, never used in my stock of parts and hoped to us it so I would not have to order another $$$.I know some one mentioned a hillman washer that was great for the throttle shaft repair but I never wrote down the part number to order a bunch. My crs is bad
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Don, I don't see why you couldn't shorten the new shaft and then file the flat in it for the clamp-on bellcrank.
 
Steve, I know! Was hopin' to get a rise outta him!
(and you!)
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And as I continue to read up the page, I see Denny saying the same thing. I guess we were just being mischevious!
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I just have a blast with my tiny 8 horsepower tossin snow that a neighbor up the street uses a 20 hp Crapsman to do the same thing and he just can't understand how it can do it!

And my little 8 just sips gas compared to those higher HP rigs!
 
Greetings All,
I’m new to the forum, new to restoring old Cub Cadet tractors, and I’m starting on my first restoration project. My project is a recently purchased model 126 that is equipped with the optional electric lift. It does not have the Cub Cadet so called ‘three-point hitch’, and I would like to install the category 0 three-point hitch available from xtreememotorworks.com. I’ve consulted with the supplier’s support, and I’m confident that I will be able to use it on my 126.
I do have some questions, however, concerning the ability of the stock electric lift to provide the force necessary to operate the hitch with implements attached. I’m not sure just how much force those stock actuators are supposed to apply, or if they are even capable by design for such a purpose, but my impression of the one on my machine is that it is not up to the task. The actuator works just fine to lift and lower the mower deck, but after some testing to determine its potential, I have my doubts it could operate the three-point hitch. I tested as follows: With the mower deck removed, I placed blocking under the rockshaft that lifts the deck, and with the engine running, lowered the lift arms onto the blocks and attempting to lift the tractor off the ground with the electric lift. It could not, and in fact, it didn’t seem to provide much effort at all, although I have no way of measuring it, (and no, neither the actuator, nor the rockshaft, was at their ends of their travel) it just seems to me that in order to operate a three-point hitch with a 100-plus lb. implement, the actuator should have been able to at least partially lift the machine.
Does anybody have any insight on these electric lifts as to their ability? Basically, I’m wondering if I should rebuild my existing actuator, replace it with a rebuilt one, or should I just go with a modern linear actuator. I have considered the option of making the modifications to use a Concentric Industries ballscrew-drive linear actuator with 1000 lbs of force. It’d cost about $400, but at least it would be up to the task.

Thank You in advance.
 

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