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Archive through December 12, 2010
- Thread starter canton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
STEVE B. - I don't use "Ramming Speed" much with my old FARMALL & loader. Cold cast iron and immovable objects don't mix as well as cold steel & immovable objects. Plus there's a joint or two on my concrete drive that raise up when the frost goes in the ground I have to be careful of.
I just found out I'm making a ROAD TRIP this afternoon & tonight. Glad I'm going SOUTH and not NORTH. Wind is supposed to die down this afternoon so I think I'll be taking a CAR instead of a FARMALL.
I just found out I'm making a ROAD TRIP this afternoon & tonight. Glad I'm going SOUTH and not NORTH. Wind is supposed to die down this afternoon so I think I'll be taking a CAR instead of a FARMALL.
Everyone talkin about blowin snow with there cubcadets and a snowblower has peaked my curosity.I've looked at purchase of '62'CCO&BB36
snowblower. If I bought it I was going to sell the blower. How well does this setup work? I've used I.H.8hp walk behind, but not tractor mounted before.I may decide to keep the BB36!!
Thanks,
Rod Smith
i think you guys are hysterical. seems like the deere guys hate the cub guys and the cub guys cant stand the deere guys, i find it comical.i'm a both guy. i spend allot of time over here, but i have been to WFM as well quite a bit. personally i like all the old school GT's. weather its an IH, a john deere, a case/ingersol, wheelhorse, or even a sears suburban. i like em all and admire their strength. i try to convert people all of the time. i try to convince people that they were all made better back 20 or more years ago.
my stepfather needs another snowblower, the toro and i gave him from the 1970's is getting pretty worn out. the bearings are all bad, the drivetrain is worn, and the engine smokes like you know what. he was looking at somewhat newer walkbehind snowblowers that were in the 3-400 dollar range. i instead tried to convince him that a IH cub cadet 123 with a blower, weights, and chains for 450 was a better deal. i couldnt convince him. i tried telling me that it will end up needing work. while this might be true it will last forever after any repairs are done. he doesnt want to work on anything. i dont really understand cause the man is a motor-head. he works on chevy small blocks and his 84 camaro. dont know why he doesnt have an interest in working on small engines. he said he doesnt want to work on lowly "lawnmowers". i think they are simpler to work on and a whole lot of fun.
all of these machines are fun to work on and make excellent workhorses. people say that they are nothing more than lawnmowers. this is so untrue. i have always said they are small agriculture tractors, not lawnmowers. they are capable of so much more. removing snow, they are the best machine for the job. when you have the weight and the power, removing that heavy snowfall is not a problem at all. when i lived in east aurora, i ended up cleaning up several driveways after a severe snowfall when people couldnt handle it with there little 8hp units. they were struggling and i went right through it with no problem. that was only the 112, i would bet the 147 is even more capable. it seems like its a little heavier of a machine. not only snow removal, but they are also great units to have around to till up the garden. maybe i will get a tiller for the 147, but it would be one of the last things i would buy since i already own a tiller for the jd.
i did have a question. what is more efficient in delivering power to the wheels, hydrostat or gear drive. i was told that a hydrostatic transmission draws more power from the engine, is that true? what setup delivers more power to the attachments.
my stepfather needs another snowblower, the toro and i gave him from the 1970's is getting pretty worn out. the bearings are all bad, the drivetrain is worn, and the engine smokes like you know what. he was looking at somewhat newer walkbehind snowblowers that were in the 3-400 dollar range. i instead tried to convince him that a IH cub cadet 123 with a blower, weights, and chains for 450 was a better deal. i couldnt convince him. i tried telling me that it will end up needing work. while this might be true it will last forever after any repairs are done. he doesnt want to work on anything. i dont really understand cause the man is a motor-head. he works on chevy small blocks and his 84 camaro. dont know why he doesnt have an interest in working on small engines. he said he doesnt want to work on lowly "lawnmowers". i think they are simpler to work on and a whole lot of fun.
all of these machines are fun to work on and make excellent workhorses. people say that they are nothing more than lawnmowers. this is so untrue. i have always said they are small agriculture tractors, not lawnmowers. they are capable of so much more. removing snow, they are the best machine for the job. when you have the weight and the power, removing that heavy snowfall is not a problem at all. when i lived in east aurora, i ended up cleaning up several driveways after a severe snowfall when people couldnt handle it with there little 8hp units. they were struggling and i went right through it with no problem. that was only the 112, i would bet the 147 is even more capable. it seems like its a little heavier of a machine. not only snow removal, but they are also great units to have around to till up the garden. maybe i will get a tiller for the 147, but it would be one of the last things i would buy since i already own a tiller for the jd.
i did have a question. what is more efficient in delivering power to the wheels, hydrostat or gear drive. i was told that a hydrostatic transmission draws more power from the engine, is that true? what setup delivers more power to the attachments.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Gear drives put more power to the ground. The hydro is more inefficient in that is the mechanical torque is converted into fluid pressure and back again. Some of that is lost and turned into heat. So I guess having said that, a gear drive will have more power available at the front PTO to power an attachment than a hydro tractor of the same horsepower. The amount of power delivered to the attachment depends on the amount of power it needs. With the hydro, you may run out of power and have to slow the tractor down a bit to compensate.
ANDREW - Hydro vs GD debate runs rampant here. The GD is much more mechanically efficient, I'd say 95-98% efficient. Hydro's?, well Marlin would know for sure but I'd guess 80-90%. When working them HARD, at plow days, etc the rearend in my CC 72 GD never gets warm, in fact I've never been able to even feel any heat from the rearend, but the hood frequently gets almost too hot to touch. But sometimes like @ PD #2 where the ground was REALLY really hard, like blacktop, turning over huge slabs of dirt off the moldboard I could only pull my 10" plow in first gear, not 2nd, my normal plowing gear. The Hydro guys were all passing me for a round or two but then most of them stopped because the IH CC Hydro's were getting hot. Couple even foamed the Hy-Tran and seemed like they were boiling over. But that was mostly the 169's & hopped-up twin cyl. tractors, a certain 23 HP Vangard 782 comes to mind! All that heat in the trans fluid is wasted HP, work energy not pulling the plow. But under most "normal" PD conditions the hydro's seem to find that sweet spot to run faster than I can even in 2nd gear in light pulling conditions. So in terms of area plowed per hour a Hydro will beat a GD tractor. On PTO powered equipment with a hydro you can ALWAYS find that correct speed to make maximum use of the equipment or avail engine HP, GD, not so much, you have gaps in the speed choices.
In the special world of garden tractor pulling, GD's rule. Build as MUCH HP as you can, build the rest of the tractor to survive and go. Guy that used to post here frequently has his own dyno in his shop about 100 miles from me. His K-series Kohlers make 80-90 HP at around 7500-8000 RPM and his pullers are ALL "Cub Cadet Based", lots of special parts once you get to that level of performance. It's kinda like saying the old Toyota F-1 race cars (team quit F-1 racing 3-4 yrs ago) share parts with your Tercel or Camary. NOT!
Far as your Step-father's snow blower.... I think I'd be looking for a brand new walk-behind with elec. start and just clean my own driveway. Getting a 45 yr old tractor & snow blower in condition to depend on all winter is a lot of work. Granted the new blower won't be running in 30-40 yrs and the 123 probably still well be running then at 75-85 yrs old but maybe they'll figure out how to clear snow with a LAPTOP computer by then!
In the special world of garden tractor pulling, GD's rule. Build as MUCH HP as you can, build the rest of the tractor to survive and go. Guy that used to post here frequently has his own dyno in his shop about 100 miles from me. His K-series Kohlers make 80-90 HP at around 7500-8000 RPM and his pullers are ALL "Cub Cadet Based", lots of special parts once you get to that level of performance. It's kinda like saying the old Toyota F-1 race cars (team quit F-1 racing 3-4 yrs ago) share parts with your Tercel or Camary. NOT!
Far as your Step-father's snow blower.... I think I'd be looking for a brand new walk-behind with elec. start and just clean my own driveway. Getting a 45 yr old tractor & snow blower in condition to depend on all winter is a lot of work. Granted the new blower won't be running in 30-40 yrs and the 123 probably still well be running then at 75-85 yrs old but maybe they'll figure out how to clear snow with a LAPTOP computer by then!
Mat G
(With the hydro, you may run out of power and have to slow the tractor down a bit to compensate.) I agree > just how do you reduce ground speed with a gear drive,Take the thing off WOT.If its working that will kill it.So yes with a hydro you can reduce ground speed and keep the attachment working, like a snow blower or a blade. I`ll settle for the loss of power to have the benifit of the right ground speed to work. I hope this starts some debate and see who votes for what and why. lol
(With the hydro, you may run out of power and have to slow the tractor down a bit to compensate.) I agree > just how do you reduce ground speed with a gear drive,Take the thing off WOT.If its working that will kill it.So yes with a hydro you can reduce ground speed and keep the attachment working, like a snow blower or a blade. I`ll settle for the loss of power to have the benifit of the right ground speed to work. I hope this starts some debate and see who votes for what and why. lol
DONALD - Anybody who's ever run BOTH a GD & hydro will agree, get one of EACH. Each is the correct tool for specific jobs, but either one can do ALL jobs, just maybe not as easily as the other could.
And general consenses of a poll yrs ago was that if you could ONLY have one CC, it should probably be a hydro, with bigger HP, 14-16,17+ HP. And that's coming from a diehard gear drive guy.
And general consenses of a poll yrs ago was that if you could ONLY have one CC, it should probably be a hydro, with bigger HP, 14-16,17+ HP. And that's coming from a diehard gear drive guy.
mconway
Well-known member
i have a wide frame mod 109 and a snow/dirt blade for a narrow frame. i'd like to get a wide frame sub frame for the blade or modify the existing narrow frame to fit my 109. does anybody have the dimensions of the bends on the wide frame or know of a sub frame anyplace?
Dennis Frisk
Well said ! I do like to use my 100 for some things ,but with all there is in the way here mowing is not high on the list for that tractor.I need a NF Hyd system on the 100 ,that is the first thing I miss from all the hydros I have.And I end with You just can`t have just one Cub Cadet!
Well said ! I do like to use my 100 for some things ,but with all there is in the way here mowing is not high on the list for that tractor.I need a NF Hyd system on the 100 ,that is the first thing I miss from all the hydros I have.And I end with You just can`t have just one Cub Cadet!
i thought 450 bucks for a 123 with a blower, weights and chains was a great deal. the ad says that it ran great. however who really knows what that means. our definition of running great and most people's definition or running great are 2 different things. my stepfather's lawn tractor is also shot and he is lucky to get another summer of mowing out of it. i thought it would have been practical for him to buy that 123. as far as brand new snowblower, he will never buy one. he doesnt want to spend that kind of money to get one that is big enough. electric start on a snowblower is a joke. im not hooking up an extension cord to a snowblower, its a waste of time. by the time you plug that stupid thing in, i could have it running with 1 pull of the rope. if it takes more than 1 or 2 pulls than its not running right. the only time i want electric start is when its on a tractor that has a full electrical system with battery, charging system, starter, headlights, ect. if im using electric start, i want to get on the thing and turn a key. im not plugging anything in
when i bought my off topic, in order to make it reliable for winter i had to get a new car battery, buy a low hour kohler shortblock(original engine was tired got a good deal on the shortblock) i still have the k241 block i could rebuild), rebuild the carb, buy 4 new tires, buy the blower, weights and chains. that was 4 years ago and i have only had a problem running it once in the snow. it was a stupid issue with a coil wire. easily fixed in 20 minutes.
total investment on my blower tractor:
$100 worn out tractor to rebuild
$50 battery
$150 tires
$150 weights and chains
$140 37a blower in good condition
$150 kohler k series k301 shortblock
$60 misc belts
total investment:
less than 800 bucks. thats less than the price of the average walkbehind snowblower. the build quality of my older machine is much better and will outlast many new snowblowers if i keep up on the maintenance. its also much heavier than a walk behind machine and can force itself into really deep snow. even if i added more little items into the cost i still come out ahead. a good sized walkbehind costs 1000 bucks and up.
if i could have had another deal on a shortblock kohler like that k301 i bought for cheap, i would have bought it in a minute. deals like that only come through once a lifetime. i got a really good deal on that engine.
my stepfather keeps looking in the 2-350 range and when you buy a snowblower at that price its going to need work. nothing at that price is going to be pull cord ready. he certainly doesn't want to spend the money on a new machine. i think if your going to work on something, it might as well be something worth working on. i wont mess around on any walkbehind because they aren't worth the time or effort, they are extremely limited use machines. i wouldn't trade my tractors for anything.
when i bought my off topic, in order to make it reliable for winter i had to get a new car battery, buy a low hour kohler shortblock(original engine was tired got a good deal on the shortblock) i still have the k241 block i could rebuild), rebuild the carb, buy 4 new tires, buy the blower, weights and chains. that was 4 years ago and i have only had a problem running it once in the snow. it was a stupid issue with a coil wire. easily fixed in 20 minutes.
total investment on my blower tractor:
$100 worn out tractor to rebuild
$50 battery
$150 tires
$150 weights and chains
$140 37a blower in good condition
$150 kohler k series k301 shortblock
$60 misc belts
total investment:
less than 800 bucks. thats less than the price of the average walkbehind snowblower. the build quality of my older machine is much better and will outlast many new snowblowers if i keep up on the maintenance. its also much heavier than a walk behind machine and can force itself into really deep snow. even if i added more little items into the cost i still come out ahead. a good sized walkbehind costs 1000 bucks and up.
if i could have had another deal on a shortblock kohler like that k301 i bought for cheap, i would have bought it in a minute. deals like that only come through once a lifetime. i got a really good deal on that engine.
my stepfather keeps looking in the 2-350 range and when you buy a snowblower at that price its going to need work. nothing at that price is going to be pull cord ready. he certainly doesn't want to spend the money on a new machine. i think if your going to work on something, it might as well be something worth working on. i wont mess around on any walkbehind because they aren't worth the time or effort, they are extremely limited use machines. i wouldn't trade my tractors for anything.
Thankfully, we normally don't get the amount of snow that some of you in the north have to deal with, so it doesn't take much to move it.....
This is what the weather guesser's were calling 1" or less, 1" to 2", 1" to 4", 2" to 6" etc, depending on which one you listened to. I realize there has been some serious damage done in some areas by this storm, and I hope there have not been any injuries along with it. Just trying to add a little humor to what is otherwise a serious situation.
wmakowicki
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2010
- Messages
- 62
- displayname
- Wayne Makowicki
ISO mount question. I have a 1200 that I pulled the motor to do some work, one of the rear mounts is done. I am sure others aren't to far, has anyone ever just hrad mounted the engine? I can see where the front support rubs trhe frame a bit and am sure its a noise maker.
glippert
Well-known member
Wayne M - I replaced the ISO mounts on one of my Quietlines (1450) and I didn't notice too much difference at full throttle. The vibration is a little more noticeable at idle, but why would anyone want to keep a Cub Cadet & Kohler idle?
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