Archive through December 12, 2003

[kehrecke]

Phil:
I'm so sorry to hear about your loss. I wish you and your family all the best as you work your way through the grieving process.

In the meantime, I think I'll take your advice and give my kids an extra hug and kiss tonight as we put them to bed. Thanks for the reminder.

Best wishes,
Keith

 

[cmccarty]

OK, more questions that show how little I know (but I only got my first cub 5 months ago). Will the mower stuff from my 106 fit a 125? I've found a cheap 125 with a torn up mower mount frame and rusted out mower. If my 105 mower will fit, I'll get it to fix up and mow with, so I won't have to mess up my plow tractor! Also, could I put the 12 HP Kohler in the 106 without modifications to the 106 frame? I need advice.
Thanks CJM

 

[jrichardson]

Charles M,

Will the mower stuff from my 106 fit a 125? If you are refering to your subframe etc. I believe that it will. There were not too many changes to the subframes. Depending which one you have.

Also, could I put the 12 HP Kohler in the 106 without modifications to the 106 frame? I need advice. Yes, the 12hp will bolt right in. You will have problems with anything bigger, then you need to channel the frame to allow for the larger flywheel. Once you put the 12 in you will have a 126. Whenever you look at Cub Cadets, the number 106=10hp 6(even number) = gear drive
126=12hp 6(even number) = gear drive
107=10 hp 7(odd) = hydrostatic
127=12hp 7(odd) = hydrostatic
147=14hp 7(odd) = hydrostatic

This also applies to the 1x4/5, 1x6/7, 1x8/9, and with the QLs take away the "0" and you have your hydrostatic and gear drive
1000 - 0 = 100 broken down would be:
10=10hp 0(even) gear drive
1200-0=120
12=12hp 0(even) gear drive
1250-0=125
12=12hp 5(odd) hydrostatic
1450-0=145
14=14hp 5(odd)hydrostatic
1650-0=165
16=16hp 5(odd) hydrostatic

More than you wanted to know, but useful info!


(Message edited by jrichardson on December 13, 2003)

 

[jrichardson]

Looking over what I just wrote... Sheesh that was my 639th post... if you would subtract 638 posts, that would equal 0 knowledge. So when you add the 638, you get an answer like the one below...

That equates to all the knowledge that I have gained here... Thanks guys and THANKS Ken Updike for your book. That really shed some light on the issue. when's your next one coming out?

 

[till]

Jeff,
I'm at 964 and your ahead of me on the knowlage side.....

 

[cmccarty]

Jeff,
Thanks. If I can get that 125 for a good price (cheap) it will be a good addition to my fleet.
97 posts and far to go - and loving every minute of it.
Charlie

(Message edited by cmccarty on December 13, 2003)

 

[dbarnett]

I know what ya mean jeff, i found this forum about a year ago, and have gained so much knowledge from the people here, ( and cought "yellow fever" ).

the refurbish on my 149 was movin along pretty good, i've got the rebuilt engine installed, i got just a few more parts to paint and then i can finish puttin it together.
had to divert my cub time to the 106/loader, needed to replace the hyd. pump, and do some renforcment to the loader frame mount, also i added ripper teeth to the bucket and a chain hook. next i'm gona build some longer forks for the loader.

just my .02 worth on the nail thing,i bought a paslode butane fired nail gun when i was building my cabin, way cool, no air hose to drag around, take any were.

 

[jrichardson]

Doug "bucket" Barnett, Good to see you on here again... Been a while. Reminds me, I should stop up there this week... Seems I keep saying that, but with all the projects I have, time seems to be something I don't have... I am rerally looking forward to seeing the 149 again!!! Last time I saw her she was in peices and getting cleaned. Remember that input shaft that was bent on my friends Original? Well, I put a different input shaft in the reduction housing and when I put the reduction housing on the transaxle, it would bind terribly... So I made the call to Scott Madson and he sent one out. Just got it last night and now I need to tear the tranaxle down and replace the shaft.

I do have to say that even though the Original is belt drive, that the belt is not THAT weak in the drive train. The primary input shaft into the transaxle was bent quite a bit... So that says to me that belt drive or not, it doesn't make it weak. BTW, the input shaft is about 1" splined, and it was twisted, and bent! It made an eliptical path during rotation. I might add it was VERY noticeable. Go Originals...

Now if I had a M&W, I would kick the crap out of any Hydro!

 

[till]

Man, Sinkers are the right fastner for the job

Thank you all soooooo much. Now to finish the new Cub shop. It is the other side of the basment bath wall that I had to replace.

 

[jrwilliams]

I'm still having difficulties with the PTO on the 149. It will not disengage no matter how I adjust the rod. Does anyone have a schematic of the PTO scanned that they could send me so I can see the break down of parts involved and trouble shoot this thing before the next snowfall. I have been shoveling my entire life and would love to put this QA42A to use. Thanks, jim

 

[digger]

Jim W.
Here ya go. Have you adjusted the air gap? I've also sent you the instruction sheet to your email addy.

 

[jrwilliams]

Hey, thanks a lot Digger!! The PTO worked just fine when I had the tiller attachment on. Then I put the snowthrower on and popped on a new belt, and now it doesn't want to disengage. Is the air gap measured between part #16 and #15 in the diagram? If it is, then- yes I did adjust it to the .020 gap. I was wondering if the tension of the belt I installed was putting a side load on the PTO, causing it to bind no matter how it was adjusted. The snowthrower belt I ended up getting is 1/2" wide. The book calls for 15/32"; which isn't that big a difference, but I have the tensioner as loose as it will go, and it is still extremely tight. The belt measures 30" long which is exactly the same length as the dealer's manual calls for. It was just unfortunate that he didn't have the exact belt that I needed. I feel like I have little choice except great disassembly to investigate, unless anyone can shed any other light. Thanks again for the diagram! Very helpful!!! jim

 

[sblunier]

Jim,

Open the gap up a little and try again...sometimes they bind on the end of the crankshaft if the air gap is too tight.

The other possibility is that the PTO bearing shot craps or is very bad and preventing the pto from riding smoothly on the crank while disengaged.......excessive belt load would agrivate this problem.

Have you tried starting the tractor with the thrower turning and then loading it up good in some snow with the lever pulled back "disengaged"????......If it's just clutch plates rusted together or a stuck disk that should knock it loose!!!!

PTO rebuilds are fairly simple and only cost about $35......cheap for a rebuild that should last 15+ years of normal service.

A side note: Travis sells rebuilt PTO's and the bearings, as do other sponsers. The sponsers would also have the "perfect" belt.

 

[tgolding]

WM DeTurck

I followed your advice that you gave me about a week ago. I did not feel any compression and after pulling the head, I discovered the piston was not moving. In short, I had a broken connecting rod. I found one locally and it is working good.

Thanks for the advice.

Todd

 

[ddillon]

Hey guys a question on the other end of the crankshaft, what size woodruff key is used to hold the flywheel on a K301? thanks

 

[cmccarty]

Not the best of cub weekends. WHen I got out to my cub shack (10 miles from home) the parts I intended to install were missing in action. Then when I got around to trying to buy the 125, it was already sold. Shucks.

The good news is its snowing in southern Indiana! (But I doubt if I'll need a snow blower for this one.)
Charlie

PS, Strike while the iron's hot.

 

[smckenzie]

I posted a question recently about the performance difference between my 169 with a QA36A that I set up for this year and a 125 with QA42 that I was using for the last few years. The QA42 on the 125 screamed. I had a chance to look at the thrower on the 125 today and it has a 3 1/2" pulley on it. The previous owner must of switched it and I didn't know any better. It also wasn't the right width it looks like it was for a 1/2" belt so the 3/8" really bottomed out and it actually ran smaller.

I want to put a 3 1/5" or 3 1/4" pulley on my QA42A on the 169 does anyone know the correct part number for this pulley from Mcmaster Carr? I just went on line to order and it wasn't as easy as I thought to find the right pulley. Correct me if I'm wrong but what I think I need is a pulley that will go on a 3/4" keyed shaft that takes a 3/8" belt in either 3 1/4" or 3 1/2" (I'm going to try both). Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Scott

 

[nfisher]

Scott,
it looks like the smallest pulley Mcmaster has for the 3V belt is a 3.35" PN 9615K11 @ $18.84, that's a cast iron sheave. the split tapered bushing would be type "JA" PN 6086K11, bore specified at 3/4" for $7.30 each.

the one issue with shrinking pulley size is the HP transfer rating is also reduced, a chart in the Grainger catalog lists a 3VX belt is capable of transferring 3.34 HP MAX on a 3.30" sheave.

 

[bmcmeen]

Scott/Nate -

It's real easy - go to the local farm store (I assume ya have one) and buy a hub for the correct shaft diameter, then buy the stamped steel pulley of the appropriate diameter that fits the hub and weld 'em together. And it's a helluva lot cheaper than industrial supply...

 

[fmorski]

2-3"of fun stuff fell today. Got to exercise the 129 after the 1450 decided to call it quits. Not sure what happened but it gust gave up.

Did get to try the 175 lb wheel weights. They plant the 1450 to the ground.

Am I the only one that is trip blade installer challanged? I have never figured out an easy way to mount the blade under carriage.

It seems to me that the IH engineers could have lengthened the top part of the slot about an inch and then it would not fall out when you try to complete the mounting.

Was not fun as I had to swap the blade from the 1450 to the 129.