-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through December 09, 2013
- Thread starter dtanner
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Hello all. Picked up a UD-6 creeper for one of my Os recently and gonna try a rebuild. Curious if anyone has gone thru one and can give me some pointers. So far all I've done is remove the top plate and flushed the old fluid out. All looks ok so far but would like to remove the shifter shaft and fork but not certain how. Not sure what's holding the shift fork on the shaft and not clear on where the spring and poppet are. Anyway, trying not to rush things as these dudes ain't cheap and don't want to ruin any parts. Thanks all and hope everyone's doing well.
I know pics often help (they do me) so I've attached one of the top part of the creeper with the fork intact. Again, trying to remove the shaft that slides through the fork but not certain if you just drive the shaft out or if there's something holding the fork to the shaft. Seems as though there must be something (spring/poppet?) on the back side of the fork holding it in place. If that's the case I'm not certain how to remove it. Perhaps thru the zerk hole?
Terry D.
If the shift fork is not worn and it's not leaking, LITHA!
Trust Me on this.
If the shift fork is not worn and it's not leaking, LITHA!
Trust Me on this.
Charlie - understand! The fork looks ok (teeny bit of wear) but no clue if she leaks or not - pretty grimy when I got it. PO said it doesn't want to stay in low (maybe high?) but looked to me like it could have been hitting the frame so it wasn't fully engaging. Not sure how bad a fork has to be to cause problems but what wear there is doesn't seem excessive. Thanks
The forks can be worn 1/8" on either or both sides before issues arise.
Make sure the handle isn't bent and or hitting the tunnel when you install it and you'll be good to go.
Make sure the handle isn't bent and or hitting the tunnel when you install it and you'll be good to go.
Well thanks guys ,I`am off to my shop to take the drive shaft apart and remove that rusty piece and then get the drive shaft put back into the tractor.The 12 that was in the tractor will get a new head gasket and the valves adjusted and new points wire and plug. This engine had real noisy valves and I know they don`t need to rattle . My loader is quiet and runs great.
tkhoffman
Well-known member
Kraig,
Waxing teh shoot is a normal routine My dad has a Sears Craftman (536 886260 ) where , for safety reasons, they go from a normal 5" shoot and try to continue to push through the rectangle shaped hole that is the size of a 2x4. 8 hp snow thrower and it would clog no matter how slow you moved.
This solved that problem but I'm not just talking about clogs , this Modification will absolutely let you throw snow farther. It really helps with the slushy snow too.
ahh here's another forum talking about it.
http://www.opeonthenet.com/archives/1206/t_03241.html
Waxing teh shoot is a normal routine My dad has a Sears Craftman (536 886260 ) where , for safety reasons, they go from a normal 5" shoot and try to continue to push through the rectangle shaped hole that is the size of a 2x4. 8 hp snow thrower and it would clog no matter how slow you moved.
This solved that problem but I'm not just talking about clogs , this Modification will absolutely let you throw snow farther. It really helps with the slushy snow too.
ahh here's another forum talking about it.
http://www.opeonthenet.com/archives/1206/t_03241.html
TONY - I've seen that modification done on other brand of snow bloers, but never an IH. If the center paddles are really worn, I could see that mod helping, but if the auger is in decent shape, there's not much clearance there in IH blowers.
There were two and four flight blowers made by IH. Most are 2-flight but I remember the discussion here many many yrs ago.
A smaller driven pulley on the gearbox and a slightly shorter belt speeds the whole blower up and increases throwing distance and the amount of snow the blower can handle, IF Yo have the HP to run it.
Yesterday at this time I was out pushing 4-5 inches of snow in 15-17 degree weather with 15-20 MPH winds and gusts over 30 MPH. White-Out comditions. I'd hated to have been BLOWING snow!
There were two and four flight blowers made by IH. Most are 2-flight but I remember the discussion here many many yrs ago.
A smaller driven pulley on the gearbox and a slightly shorter belt speeds the whole blower up and increases throwing distance and the amount of snow the blower can handle, IF Yo have the HP to run it.
Yesterday at this time I was out pushing 4-5 inches of snow in 15-17 degree weather with 15-20 MPH winds and gusts over 30 MPH. White-Out comditions. I'd hated to have been BLOWING snow!
