Archive through December 09, 2010

[mhomrighausen]

Beth S. Would you be able to get some more pictures of the blade and how it is mounted? Also, a picture of the tunnel cover removed. This will help diagnose your troubles. After all if it worked for the PO then it should work for you. TIA

Off to work. Ya'll have a great day.

 

[dfrisk]

"BOOTS" - re swapping K301 12 HP into a 100. Should be s straight unbolt & bolt up deal.

The three-pin clutch drive plate has to come off the 10 HP and go on the 12 Hp, four little 1/4" cap screws to replace the hydro driveshaft coupler. The S/G, and it's pulley on the crankshaft, and PTO clutch can stay right on the engine. The PTO clutch wll probably need adjustment as will the engine clutch/brake. And the throttle & choke cables.

The oil pan on the 12 Hp will have to stay on the 12 HP because the deep sump is required to clear the oiling finger on the rod cap inside the engine, but the deep sump fits right into the 100 frame with no problems.

 

[mjrobilotta]

ok thanks Dennis that pretty much what i figured but i wanted to be sure first. do you by chance know how much oil it should hold for the next time i change it?

 

[digger]

Here's Beth's pics.

 

[mgonitzke]

Beth-

It looks to me like there is nothing connecting the blade to the lift arm on the right side of the tractor. Is this correct?

That blade is not for a Cub Cadet and is very cobbled up. I would put a want ad in the classifieds for the correct blade for your 1650.

 

[jott]

i agree with Matt. im not sure about where you live but around my area there are a quite a few wf plows out by me in wisconsin

 

[digger]

Beth,
It does have a chain attached close to the mount up front.
Maybe you could just extend it to the lift arm on the side of the tractor to get you through the bad weather and then fix it up later.

It might rub the frame, but hey! It beats not lifting it all.

 

[dfrisk]

MICHAEL - K301's w/IH CC spec pan are 1-1/2 quarts, same as the flat bottom 10 Hp pan.

 

[aschmidt]

While we are on the talk of snow blades, almost ready to go into pre-production of the new angled snow blade. Will bolt onto existing cub cadet sub frames. Will be building the first one in the next week or so....

 

[bsouthwick]

We have a lift arm for lifting a mower deck. Is that the arm you are referring to?

 

[jott]

Aaron, let us know what you come up with on that plow. id definatley be interested as im sure others would be as well.

 

[mgonitzke]

Beth-

Notice the rod that goes behind my foot in this picture. It attaches to the lift arm that is sticking out of the right side of the frame.

 

[digger]

Beth,
Download the installation instructions for blades and you will see where everything is supposed to hook up.
CLICK HERE

 

[dtanner]

Aaron Schmidt - Xtreme Motorworks
Wow I like that snow blade. But then I would need another set of hyd ports ! One cylinder for the scoop and the V and another for the left to right angle. That would help get unstuck from the snow banks as well.( I wonder if shipping to here would cost more than the blade

).
You make great tractor accessories.

 

[jott]

Don T, I was thinking of a manual angling system for it if the hyd idea doesnt work or if you have a nf. i think it would work good. I thought of putting a rod on the end of the snowblade, then another rod on the plow mount and have one rod slide inside of the other with a bunch of holes for different settings and a cotter pin to hold it in place.

 

[bsouthwick]

Thanks for the manual of what it is supposed to look like. We will start looking for parts or a different plow. And we will continue plowing, in the meantime!

Thanks all for your suggestions and help!

Beth

 

[masmith]

Anybody tried using the v-bar chains reversed with the v-bar facing the tire. I can't use the v-bar because of the damage it would do when it slips on the concrete/blacktop. I don't want to tear up a set of tires either.

 

[dfrisk]

Michael S. - re: V-bar chains run "upside-down". If you run them tight enough it should work. But if the chains get loose the cross chains with the v-bars will twist or turn and the v-bars will expose themselves. I think that would work best on a turf tire, but I'm not sure it would be 100% reliable, I think the chains would get loose eventually. The v-bars shouldn't hurt the tires that much if at all, especially if the corners of the v-bars have worn some from prior use.

If no scratches on the concrete/blacktop is that important I'd buy a set of standard chains and eliminate the risk entirely. Just don't ever spin your drive tires. Personally, I find that IMPOSSIBLE to do.

Go ahead and send me your old v-bar chains since you won't be needing them, I don't mind the scratches and that will save you the storage problems.

 

[digger]

Michael S.
Pick your damage!
It's one or the other or get some none v-bar chains.

I do have a question for anyone with a fancy driveway that they don't want to put a scratch or 3 into.

Why is that? Is it really that important to keep up an appearance in a driveway? Or am I missing something?

Besides, if you operate your machine right, your not spinning the tires anyway, or at least I don't unless I just want to.

 

[masmith]

I am not concerned with my driveway, but like most with this addiction, I will do my street and most of the others around me because I enjoy using my Cubs. It does not snow a lot here, so when it does, it's play time. I don't want to damage the black top on the street if I can help it. I have some regular chains to use. These v-bars came with other items purchased and have been laying around for awhile. I will probably pass them along to someone who can use them.