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Archive through December 08, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Tom R. -

You can call any sponsor and describe it EXACTLY as you did here and they'll get you the right part.

Dunno what the parts book calls it (why not order one of those while you're at it?), but around here it's been called a flexible coupling, flex disk, rag joint, etc, etc, etc...
 
Kraig -

Boss is here today, had to be fast
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The forum is awful dead here lately .... somebody hold a mirror up to Ranger Buck's nose and see if he's still breathing.
 
The 109 is done!! What was going to be a simple engine swap turned out to last a bit longer. Rebuilt engine, ported hydro & hydraulics from a 1450, some misc. parts from a 149, steering and front axle tightened up, wiring repaired, drive shaft rebuilt (like Dave Kemp's with a u-joint), and everything painted except the rear fenders and anything white. Painting will resume next spring when it's a little nicer out. This was not intended to be a restoration, (and isn't by any means) just a project to put some life back into a well used and deserving Cub. I moved some mud around on the driveway with the front blade for about a hour and it ran and handled like new. Let it snow!
Thanks to everyone who helped and answered my many questions.
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John
 
Wow Ray, looks good. Your right, no one will notice the color in the dark.
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I'm so side tracked with my other hobby right now it isn't funny. I have to make a run down to Jonesboro GA to pick up a parts donor just after Cripits. Then maybe I'll have some Cub time.

Any bets on how the Caprice will do pulling 5000 lbs of aluminum back from GA????
 
Do I really need to remove my PTO?

After several days of trying to get the PTO off my 126 I've only gotten the first set of screws out - even soaking with PB Blaster. I've ruined 4 allen wrenches doing this. The second set looks to be harder.

While messing with the thing tonite I started spraying PB Blaster around the PTO. Using a 3-point puller I've gotten the thing to spin pretty well when the button is pushed in. My father-in-law said that it was working okay back in '91 before the alt/gen went out and he put it up in the shed.

My question is, "Do I really need to remove this blasted thing if I can get it unfrozen on the drive shaft?"

Thanks for suggestions/opinions for this novice.

Dave Shine
 
Dave,

If you hosed down the PTO and it's friction disk with oil, then YES, it needs to come off. It won't hold if the disk is oil soaked.

Have you tried hitting the allen wrench with a hammer (straight down onto the threads) to act like an impact driver to remove the stuck screws????

If worse comes to worst, drill out the set screws, or pull the whole unit off with a bearing puller and heat them up to remove them.
 
Which way do I drive out the axle pin ? from the front to back or back to front?
I got the sprial pin out but cant get the pivot pin to move in either direction.
on a Cub Cadet 122.
 
Dang if I'm not having the same problems with the PTO on my k301. All but one of the small allen screws came out and I tried drilling out the last one but broke the bit. I searched for more onfo on this and someone said to use a carbide bit. Should have listened.
Does anyone have an exploded view? I checked all of the CD manuals and can't find one. I also took out the allens that look to hold the entire unit on the crank shaft. Is a "bearing puller" different than a pulley puller? I wouldn't bother with the darned thing but I need to get the pulley off. I have another crank set-up. The dented part of the PTO looks to be connected to the large pulley on the engine side. Am I wrong.
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I'll tell what I had to do once <font color="0000ff">** but NOT recommended **</font> was to make a slide hammer to grip the groove of the PTO and slam that sucker off the shaft ! Of course you can really do damage that way to the crank / rod / bearings / PTO ... it worked and has been in use until buying the new cub.

Tedd swing that aluminum around this way and you can leave "light" and save gas
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Take yer coffee black ?
 
Lonny the pin will no doubt have a wear groove wore that is holding it in place. Those can be a pain sometimes. I drove mine out F/B with a 4lb hammer and big punch.


John you lost me on these 2 statements. If you are talking about the mechanical PTO which I guess you are , then there are 6 screws , 2 ontop of eachother in 3 holes. The first (top) 3 are anti backouts for the holding bottom 3.
The screws hold it onto a bearing that is cam locked to the shaft.

<font color="ff0000">"All but one of the small allen screws came out"
"I also took out the allens that look to hold the entire unit"</font>
 
Hey Ken,
ya I took out 5 allens - the 6th is still stuck in there. I just re-searched the archives and found a post about using a gear puller 9I do have a 3 pronged one) and bottoming out the spring-loaded deal on the front of the PTO on the crank shaft. I have a different crank to use on the new block so I'm not too worried if I scar this crank up. I just want to get the new block together to get the Dyna-plow plowin'.
 
RIGHT ON!!! Thanks Ken. So the allen screws must tighten onto the bearing then? Thanks for getting those pics posted so fast.
 
Okay with just one screw holding I'd tie a string around it and the other around a door knob ;) The puller pic in the FAQ is my pic so I know that works. I used the same jaws and made my own puller to keep it in the groove to slap it off with a slide weight. Don't try to pry it off from behind with pry bars like I first started trying. You can't slide the locked bearing collar. The allen screw with the nut in the top pic is the cam lock screw for the bearing. Get it loose then turn the two in opposite directions (forget which way?).
 
I had to run out to see if it was still laying around , come back and get the Sony , smoke a cig , wade mudd , wipe off feet twice! download'em , resize'em , just to get you a pic ... man what I'll do ... ;)
 
You Rock Bro - (sorry for all the hippie speak - don't mean to offend anyone)
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