Archive through December 07, 2012

[dtanner]

Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow"

(Every get your 3 piece creation apart?)

yes ,I had it in the freezer for a few hrs ( thanks Kraig) and then heated the socket and used an air chisel to work the nut out . Then used another pin and my biggest multi angle swing press to get the pin out of the socket. I used my vice to hold the socket with the pin pointed down.

Richard R. Johnson

Does that float lock out not sit over the clevis ? It must help to make a blade stay down so it can`t float

To lift a blade the pin on the rock shaft has to slide towards the cylinder in the slot bottoming out and the lift occurs

.

does that float lock out not slip down over the clevis? with the rounded out end towards the cylinder. I see the bent section would keep it from falling down and the bent section on the end to keep it centered in the slot where the rock shaft pin is sliding.

did you look at parts look up? Item 10

Thanks Charlie ; I was about to post a picture of the electric lift next

 

[rrjohnson]

Charlie: Thanks for the info. Despite my invoice stating that I got a clip for a hydraulic lift, I was sent one for the electric lift. The one I have has the "E" stamped inside. I'll send it back Monday.

Who is Dan Hoefler?

 

[hydroharry]

Frank C - yes that's the boss I thought would be there on the bottom 3 fins. Also, I checked my Kohler manual and the first two digits within the range of 60-69 were engines built in 1974, so your's is correct to your 169. My engine serial no. is 6272028 and my 169 has a serial no build of Sept 1974. I think yours is Oct but didn't check the chart. Now, besides that hole in your block for the crankshaft there's another hole to the right in the pic. Just what the heck is that for?

Steve, Mr Plow - yes I thought you said it would work in your other post, but might have to be cut. You also said it was hardest to actually explain on here, so I just figured you hold the QL part in line with the lever from the 1x9, line up the holes for the lift handle and that should just about tell you how much you should cut off the QL piece and where you need to drill the new hole for the chain link connector from the spooler valve.

Richard R Johnson - yes I was wondering about Cub Cadets in your area. We hardly ever get any input from your local. We get contacts from every other part of the country, even Hawaii, but I think you're about the first from SoCal, at least that I recall. As for Dan Hoefler, if you look back at the thread page before this one you'll see he posted a pic of his 7 Cub Cadets, which he has modified into various units, including a Crawler that is amazing. He is an engineer extrodinaire, among other things, and although I can't say from any direct contact but based on details from others I believe he is also a perfectionist when it comes to Cub Cadets.

 

[fcurrier]

Harry: Camshaft pin. And believe me, when you take it out, this is the end you tap on.

 

[aaytay]

Frank-
Here is the info I have this far regarding 169 serial numbers minus the owner's names. As you can see, yours fits right in there nicely:

As everybody can see, it's a small data-base, but you can already see some trends forming. Keep getting me those numbers folks!

 

[messary]

Hi all,
Just getting ready for winter. Thought you might like to see a pic or two.

Here's the result of a free hyd motor and some free time. Still need to clean it up some, but it works good. Paint is wrong color, but it's all I had. I'm thinking I will repaint the whole thing in the spring.

 

[jbaker]

well it's been busy at work,, now I have time for a few pics

I originaly was wondering which direction I should go with redrilling the hole on the lift lever, here are some photos from my herd


this pic appears to be original with roll pin

this is a PO permanant fix with a weld

this is the bracket that was on my 169 with manual lift

and finally the worn out hole on the lift lever

Wayne,, I like your cut "n" weld idea but I may try redrilling to the right a little bit

 

[hydroharry]

Frank - Ooh, so that's where the pin is. I see you left those fake screws in place but your pic makes it look like you have a brand spanking new S/G mounted on the wrong side. Now just how did you do that?

Art - I do see the trend in most of the tractor and engine serial numbers. I don't see my son's on your list so I guess I forgot to get it to you. His keeper is 3 numbers later production than mine. I'll send you the details.

Mike E - hey, now that is a nice set up and another use for the front hydraulics. And from what I can see in your line up pic, you're ready for all depths of snow, from inches to feet, to yards with that bucket loader.

Jeff (under edit) - geez, now that lift handle is wollowed. You mentioned you had a donor hydraulic lift - did you get another handle with it? If not, then I sure like the idea of using the QL lever. I think if you install it in the direction away from the current hole you'd be ok, but I think your current hole needs to be filled in so it doesn't just split in two. I am wondering if there is enough room to flip the original lever to the opposite direction and drill a new hole on the "left" of the current hole (towards the end of the handle). Just don't know if the original lever would be clear of the side of the pedestal where the spooler is mounted. Hey, worse comes to worse you can check those nice boxes at the top amd see a brand new handle for $30 (if I recall correctly). Decisions, decisions, decisions. Keep us informed what you do.

 

[bpientka]

Mike,
What is the sprocket size you used for your hydraulic motor on your snowblower?

 

[elincoln]

I drove down to Salem,Or to get this blade. It's going to take some work to get it derusted and painted. Looks like the shoes never touched the ground and there is about 1/4" left on the wear bar.

 

[jbaker]

Edward, at least the sticker still looks good

Harry , too bad that was the donor lever,,

 

[fcurrier]

Harry: That's the s/g that belongs to the 169. I've undercut the commutator, put new brushes and bearings in it, put a haphazard paint job on it, and it will be the s/g that rolls the K341 over for it's first time under power.

 

[dfrisk]

EDWARD - I don't know how or why those IH blades get so rusty. My Buddy bought one for me at an auction 1-1/2 yrs ago, same no wear condition on the shoes & scraping edge but even less paint than your blade.

About 15 minutes with the sand blaster and it was ready for paint after wiping down with grease/oil remover. I bought a new decal at my local C/NH/IH dealer but it is the new style, doesn't have IH spelled out under the

What was sad, it cost almost as much as I paid for the blade.

 

[messary]

Bernie,
It's a 14 tooth sprocket for #40 chain.
Harry,
Thanks. Haven't really got to use the loader much yet, so I'm hoping for some big snows

 

[mpatterson]

Mike,
I am thinking we need to have a little closer look at your winter "fleet"! That 82 series tractor is looking good, rose between two thorns perhaps? And that loader...well, we all know how we feel about loaders around here. Kinda like a "holy grail"!

I rest my case!

 

[wshytle]

I headed west today to pick up a 1A tiller. It was about a 2 1/2 hr trip but I had some Dead on the ole cassette player (I'm way behind times) and the trip went well both ways. I met the gentleman in a Lowes parking lot which saved me 30 minutes driving time. He brought his 149 and I rebuilt his carb while there off of my tailgate. I explained several other things that did or would need attention but it was a nice tractor overall...especially the paint. The trunion situation was borderline but I wasn't about to offer to split the tractor; I'd still be there. He has quite a bit of play in both cam plates and I'm sure the usual post/bushing wear etc. I also moved the condenser to the outside of the coil (where most are found) because the wire was just before rubbing through being tight up against the choke cable bracket. Needless to say he wasn't that mechanically inclined but he did take a lot of notes as I explained as best I knew how (poor guy). He does have another cubber that lives fairly close and will help him with these other things like a new shifter shaft bushing which had already been adjusted and just needs a new part and the steering which needs the usual attention. The front engine seal was apparently leaking as there was quite a bit of oil and dirt on the axle, etc. I also directed him in the area of manuals since he is a double major college graduate. We prearranged all of this and there was no pay involved but he did treat me to a wonderful Chinese meal right before I hit the road for the return trip. The weather was perfect as well and I enjoyed helping him as much as I did. Oh, and we did the tiller deal which even included belts and the tiller pulley cover.

Jeff-

I hope you're planning to at least fill that wallowed hole whatever you decide. I can see how that handle had plenty of play. It's sorta strange how the tractor had only that QL plate. It seems for whatever reason the rest was removed the plate would have been gone as well. If you decide to use the "squeeze" type lever Don T. mentioned then why can't you use the plate and set the hydraulics up that way?...like the QL series? You will need some stand off spacers to mount the spool valve to the plate but those would be easy to make. I'll be lurking to see what you come up with...and good luck.

 

[kide]

Wayne - you should get something in your Christmas stocking besides coal for all the help you did today - that's what I've always liked about the guys that hang out on this forum...

 

[nbartee]

Could someone provide a close-up picture of an original tail light on a 1450, please?

 

[messary]

Mike P.,
I'll post more tomorrow. Cool thing about the "fleet" is two out of three were free!

 

[kmcconaughey]

1450 tail lights:

Wayne, I second what Gerry wrote!

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Cool thing about the "fleet" is two out of three were free!<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>