Archive through December 07, 2012

[dtanner]

Good thing I did not post a picture !

 

[pfunk]

Richard J. I'll try to post some pictures of the clevis you're talking about. I have several of the units and none of them have a jam nut. If you can't make out the dimensions that you need from the pictures, email me and I'll try to get the ones you need for you.

Under Edit: Trouble with the pictures. I'll place them in a later post.


Hope this helps

 

[pfunk]

Richard J. I'll try to post some pictures of the clevis you're talking about. I have several of the units and none of them have a jam nut. If you can't make out the dimensions that you need from the pictures, email me and I'll try to get the ones you need for you.

Hope this helps

 

[pfunk]

Richard, here's the other pictures. Don't know why they wouldn't post. Maybe it was too much for one post.

 

[wshytle]

Don-

There is a washer with the plastice gear. It is very thin (like a shim washer) and almost always sticks to the post. The manual shows a washer as well. Look closely at the post and I bet it's still there. The oil "glues" it to the base and it's hard to see. A magnet might help loosen it.

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - you're talking about a 149 and Steve is talking about using that QL part on any 1x9. It replaces the lift "lever" connecting the lift handle to the spooler valve chain link. All I can think of is that line from the movie Cool Hand Luke - "What we have here is a failure to communicate" which I'll support with THIS!!! (known as Boss "No Eyes" Godfrey for those that don't remember, or may have never seen this true classic movie)

 

[dtanner]

Wayne Shytle

I will have to find another washer for the one I got from Frank C . The other one had the washer and I could not remember from when I did my 129 loader ;I did not remove the governor gear .

Harry
Yes I was thinking of putting that QL bracket on my 149 . I replaced the pin a few years back and see it now has slack again . I have many small jobs to get done this winter .

That clevis you have posted a picture of ; is that off a 125 ? Jim Spence had his break off from have the float locked while blading snow .They will break off at the threaded section where they are screwed on the end of the cylinder. BTDT

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - I didn't post that pic of the clevis. Paul F gets the credit for posting those pics. (And I'll close with ditto my previous quote).

 

[fcurrier]

I can't bring myself to scrap this engine (the K341). Everything about it screams something's wrong with it coming in here in the 169. I say that because as far as I can see it's all original. Does the ser.# 6324467 of the engine fit with the ser.# 527780 of the tractor? It shouldn't, I don't think, because I can't get a measurement that is more or less than standard. It has no ring ridge at all.

At this point I'm ready to take my chances with a new piston, rings, conn rod, overhaul gasket kit, turn the crank down .010, install Dave Kirk's balance plate, get a working hour meter and run it. That crack is about an inch long and I will drill or have a hole drilled at the end of it. Probably 1/8"?

 

[hydroharry]

Paul E Funk - just wondering here, when I was a kid driving my, er my CC unit down the dusty gravel roads and sometimes dirt roads of South Dakota, past those beautiful corn fields, I used to see alot of signs marked "Funks G-Hybrid". Do you have an association with that sign name?

Frank C - I can't check my Kohler Service Manual for your engine Serial No. 6324467 until I get home this evening. The Service Manual will list a "decade" for manufacture of the engine based on the first 2 digits (63) of the Serial No. Maybe someone else will have quicker access than I. I do like your persistance in getting your 13fin to run again. If the cylinder is still within std specs are you sure your piston is really shot?

 

[fcurrier]

Hydro: I won't reuse this piston:

I'll keep it as a reminder of what I think killed (stopped) this engine. Carbon and lack of oil changes.
Hard to see in this pic, but this block has no provision for a fuel pump. Another indication of a 13 fin for Art's research??

I'm doing a lot of head scratching, lately.

 

[hydroharry]

Frank - I'm pretty certain your 13fin is correct for your 169. As I mentioned I don't have my Kohler Service Manual right here with me, but I did find a pic of my 13fin tag which I can only see the first few digits are 6272_ _ _. So, I don't recall exactly how Kohler breaks it down but it's something like digits 60-69 were built in the 70's (something like that). But anyway, your tractor serial number is a little later than my tractor serial number so I'm pretty certain your 13 fin is correct to your tractor. Now, one question, my block has a "boss" on the lower fins on the side where the PTO would mount. This boss appears to be Kohler prep for drilling the hole to mount the muffler box duct for an AQS engine. Sorta like Kohler was developing the AQS engine from production run blocks. Does you block have this boss?

 

[mhomrighausen]

Frank C. I'd go ahead and have the engine re-sleeved back to OEM standard bore specs. The reason I say that is a young gentleman in his upper 70s that has been doing engine work for well over 60+ years told me he had to have that done to an engine that a broken cam put a hole in the piston wall. After doing so the owner ran that engine a LOT of years without any problems.

 

[pfunk]

Harry, I'm no relation to the Funk G Hybrid. Wish I was; always tell everyone they're the rich ones.

Don T. I don't know what tractor that particular clevis, hydraulic system and pump came off. As far as I know, they're all the same. I'm planning to put it on my 4 X 4 Original when I get time.

 

[fcurrier]

Harry: Like this?:

How about the 2 fake screw heads to the right of the crankshaft hole? More

 

[rrjohnson]

Paul: Thanks for the photos. Looks like I have a bit of a problem. I believe the clevis is made fromm 3/16" steel and it looks from your photos that there is 1/2" space in between (looking down). That would give an overall width of 7/8" . Your photo seems to confirm that. The float lockout I have is an aftermarket part that I just got.The width inside this lockout is 3/4" not 7/8". With only 3/4" to work with I can only get 3/8" inside the clevis which barely fits over the rockshaft and leaves very little to weld to the nut at the ram end. I'm thinking this aftermarket lockout is not made correctly. Do you have one you can measure for me?

Harry: There are quite a few tractors in the Los Angeles area and a couple of active clubs. I have two full sized Farmalls, a 130 and a 350. As for Cub Cadets, they are a little more scarce. The problem we have out here is we're a long way from any decent suppliers and it's hard to sell things

Charlie was here.

 

[aaytay]

Frank-
"Does the ser.# 6324467 of the engine fit with the ser.# 527780 of the tractor?"

I'm at work right now and don't have access to the 169 data, but (if my brain cell is working properly tonight) that does ring a bell as fitting within the "normal scope" of what the chart shows.

I'll post up some info tomorrow sometime...

Oh, and I know what has been said thus far leads to scrapping that engine, but I'll go on record as saying I think you should just sleeve it, rebuilt it, and forget it. I could be wrong, but my bet would be that you'd be just fine.

 

[sblunier]

Don T. & Harry,

I am 100% sure it works, as I and others have done it. Shorten a little, re-drill connector hole, and install. If the lever ends up a little too short or too long all it will do is make the handle throw a little longer or shorter respectively.

That little roll pin is the devil, and the QL part fixes it right up!!!

Don T.,

Every get your 3 piece creation apart?

 

[digger]

Richard J.
I think you'll find that your piece has a big E stamped inside.
That means that you have one for an electric lift and not a hydraulic lift.

And to answer you question on if it was made right.
YES it was made perfect as are all Dan Hoefler's pieces.

This is for Hydraulic lifts,

This is for electric lifts,

 

[pfunk]

Richard J. I don't have a clip to measure, but looks like Charlie answered your question.