Archive through December 05, 2012

[mpatterson]

Great selection of pictures Plow Special!! Thank you!

I have one queston thought, what style of fenders am I needing to make my Sims cab mate up with my 82 series fenders?? My cab doors seem to be more rounded than others? Going to guess they are newer and should be used with fenders from a tractor in the late '80's or early '90's?

Can I still fit this onto a super fram from the 82 series tractors? Wondering if I am going the correct route or not now??

 

[mpatterson]

I notice alot of you have square fender "flares" on your Sims cabs. I didn't get them with mine. I am thinking these were not needed or an option with this cab? I was told this came off a model 1863 Cub. I know that is a newer one, but is it classed as a "super" frame as we know it? I am not familiar with that model at all? Only reason I say its off a super is the style of the foot well plates. If I go by what Matt has on his web site, he has a super style cab, and I too have the same.....but I don't have the fender "flares"????

 

[aaytay]

Mike-
Glad the pics were helpful for you.

Years ago I bought a similar (Later model) cab for my tractor but it just needed too much work to adapt it to fit so I sold it.

I'm not certain on this, but I think those "rear floor fillers" would be necessary because it gives a "threshold" for the door to meet up with. They're really nothing more than a couple of flats welded together. If you want to make your own, drop me an email and I'll send you some pics and measurements of mine.

 

[jbaker]

Harry, my donor one is wobbly and I plan on redrilling it and already have it out and cleaned up, but I have been trying to decide which side of the hole should I go to? towards the outside or to the inside

 

[sblunier]

Art,

On a QA-42 those lights are a bit lower.... I took off the first set I had on after taking care of some big windrows from the TWP. truck

 

[hydroharry]

Jeff - hey I'm not sure I really understand your dilema (or if you're joking). My memory is really poor on this particular problem since I only had it one time and I actually didn't fix it since I didn't realize it until it was to late AND didn't want to tear things apart again, or I didn't have the time. What I am thinking is - if you're implying you will be drilling a new hole, then I think you could snip the end of the handle so it slides across just a smiggn further and drill a new hole. I had been thinking you could oversize the existing hole but you're limited to the size spirol pin you can get and you also have to be concerned with how much material you have left on the handle (don't want it cracking open). I had a look at the parts diagram and it's as helpful as a bunch of bullhunky. Then I looked at the Hydraulic Lift Setting Up Instructions, which I think Kraig may have sent you, and I see a fairly good pic of the handle and little lever doohicky that the spirol pin holds to the handle. I assume you already looked at the lever doohicky and determined the problem is with the hole in the handle. Now I did notice in the parts list the spirol pin is 1/8 by 1. Your loseness could also be just from the spirol pin being wore out - which is what I thought my problem was until I put the new pin in and had the same problem - but didn't have time to tear it apart again. Let me know what you decide and how you make out. Your advantage over me was that I was putting everything back together after it was all painted and thought my new pin fixed the problem. I didn't have one of those pin removal tools = and getting that pin in and out is got to be one of the most difficult things I recall having to do. If I recall I had the pedestal laying on the floor when I installed the handle and lever, but had the pedestal remounted to the frame when I was making the connection to the chain link for the spooler valve - and by then it was to late to realize I still had a little wobble problem. It ain't hardly noticeable, except to a few of us experts, and as long as no one reads this post only you and I will know, I probably have about 1/8" back and forth play in my handle, which everyone probably thinks is normal.

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell

I did some reading of your last post and yes that pin that goes through the handle for hdro lift was a bear to get in place.The new pin I installed broke soon after I put it in and now have the quiet line replacement part that will solve that pin problem.

 

[kmcconaughey]

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<center>You will forget what you read about a wobbly lift handle on his 169 in Hydro Harry's December 06, 2012 - 12:10 am post.</center>

 

[bjamison]

Might be time for you guys to send those 169's to scrap and replace them with a modern 1650 tractor. I'll haul your stuff away for free...

 

[dtanner]

Open to ideas

Looks like I will have a short socket and pin when I`am done !

 

[jbaker]

Harry the hole I am referring to is on the lift handle where the linkage hooks up (I put a red dot there) so I was deciding to redrill it since it was so loose and only had a small nut and bolt holding it there and they where near breaking from wear.

so what direction should I go towards inside our out side marked with a green arrow

 

[dfrisk]

DON T. - Not sure what you're asking in your last post requesting "ideas"

But I do know that if you put a Quiet-Line part on a non-Q/L tractor you won't have a 100-point concours tractor anymore. Now you don't want that do you?

 

[hydroharry]

Kimo Sabe (Kraig, OGOKOTP) = Why you try to lift handle when it only pushpull?

Jeff - I don't recall a nut and bolt on the lift handle. Are they listed as part of the handle or other parts in the parts breakdown? Did someone add them to yours?

Don T - I don't know how you can use that QL part on an 1x9 lift handle. The spooler valve on a QL is centered under the dash but on the 1X9 it's mounted on the inside left side of the pedestal.

You guys are really testing my memory here.

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell

CRS is over your way too

. No don`t quote be but , I think there goes a bolt and nut to pinch the shaft. The other end for the hyd plungers

. I came up with a eye bolt double nutted and bent if needed .I`am open to a better plan .

 

[jbaker]

Harry the nut and bolt was not stock and was a cheap fix by a previous owner, this 149 came out of a large equipment collection in very rough shape. So which direction or does it not matter?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, hydraulic LIFT handle...

 

[bwittman]

Has anyone ever considered the fact that a horse named Silver is actually white?

 

[hydroharry]

Brian - picture only show black white (greys) so horse color could be silver - HI HO SILVER, Away.

Jeff - I'm loosing it as Don T suggested. I need a pic (not diagram) showing all parts.

Kimo Sabe (Kraig, OGOKOTP) - you have inside image of installed handle? (black white version ok)

Don T - I think the QL part is to long to fit between the handle and the chain link on the 1x9 set up.

Dennis - ya snuck in between my post and just caught it. You may have overlooked that Don is located north of the border, and according to conversion standards an additional 10 point adjustment is allowed, which provides a total of 120 metric point items that could be deducted, but no score greater than 100 points, so.... Don could possibly use the QL part and still receive 100 points (although I truly doubt it).

 

[dcmay]

I am in need of an exploded picture of a Quiet Line PTO clutch assy.I forget where the spacer goes.
Dan

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - can you post the pic shown in Step 8 of the Set Up Instructions for Hydro lift install on 169. This pic shows the spooler valve chain link connected to the lever mounted to the lift handle AND (with a little imagination you can barely see) the spirol pin holding the lever on the handle.

Jeff - if the hole in your handle is wallowed and a nut/bolt was used, then I would suspect the hole in the lever is off as well. If your lever part is ok, then I think your only option is to nip off 1/2in. of the end of the handle so the handle slides over just a little bit farther and then you can drill a new hole to the right exactly the same distance amount you cut off. Your lift handle will be closer to your dash but I think it will be hardly noticeable. Another option of course, is to weld the hole shut and re-drill proper size - but I wouldn't want to guess the difficulty in doing that.

Daniel M - there is a pic in the Service Manual at the top of page 2-81B. It shows the bolt screwed into the crankshaft with a washer and the spacer next to the washer. If you don't have the service manual then go back to the main page of this Forum, scroll down to the Manual thread link, which will take you to a Service Manual selection.