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Archive through December 03, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Charlie,

Yeah, I pulled the spark plug, the piston is just about TDC and not moving when I spin the flywheel.
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is right.

Looks like it's time to pull the head. Assuming the piston is not seized (whats the proper way to check that..just push on it with my hand?). What should I be looking for? Is a broken connecting rod a simple replacement or do you think I will be looking at a rebuild (or is it too early to tell)?

I do have a reputable small engine repair shop locally if this turns out to be too much for me to tackle myself. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and know how to follow instructions, I just don't have any experience working on small engines.

Thanks again for all the help!
 

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You can just push on it with your hand. If it goes down easy, Rod is toast. It depends on what else the Rod took out with it. If it just broken and few spun, you might get off easy, but if it came to a loud, cracking halt, then the Rod jammed against the block or cam. You'll need to pull the engine and pull the oil pan to see the damage before deciding if you need that shop or not.
If it's just an easy rod, Order one quick with a gasket kit and slam it back together before the next snow. Hopefully you have a backup cub to pull snow duty.
 
Thanks Nic,

It did make a pretty awful noise, so I will keep my fingers crossed when I pull everything apart.

No backup cub for snow duty, just an old walk-behind snowblower that does not like my 300ft gravel drive. Not looking forward to that considering we have another snow in the forecast for tomorrow night.

Looks like I will be getting the wrenches out and start tearing things down. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get into the weeds.

Thanks!
 
Jason M., keep in mind the spark plug is above the valves NOT the piston. Hopefully there's no damage to the block.
 
Thanks Kraig - I did not realize that.

I'll report back later once I get a chance to pull the head.

I do have a pretty simple (I hope) question...when I go to pull the engine do I need to detach the camshaft from the driveshaft in order to remove the engine? Or am I able to detach the connecting rod from the camshaft? If I need to detach the camshaft from the driveshaft do I need any special tools?

Just thinking of things I may need to know so I am not running back from the shed to ask questions when I'm in the thick of it.

Any other tips or tricks for this procedure are appreciated.

Thanks for the help everyone!
 
Jason-If you're talking about getting the engine out disconnect cables, wires, and fuel. Remove the four bolts underneath. The front 2 are over the axle. Jack up the front and tilt the axle to get to them. Slide the engine forward. That will pull the 3 pin driver out of the clutch disc and the shaft out of the bushing in the engine. You can only slide it an inch or so. Then lift the engine out of the frame with the method of your choice.
 
Jason, you should be able to pull the 4 bolts holding the engine to the frame. This after removing the hood and grill.

Doug just beat me to it!!

Then the whole shebang should just slide forward along w/the 3 pin driver from the clutch assly.
The camshaft is about the last thing to remove from the engine along w/the governor, that is, if you have to go that far into it.

Caution, there are shims and trust washers in there you do not want to loose! And rods and rod cams must be reinstalled the same orientation way they are removed. The FSM will walk you through these things.

May I suggest you down load the factory service manual and spend some time with it before you start taking things apart. Lots of good info there and I'm sure it will answer a lot of your questions before you even ask them!

If nothing else, you will feel a lot more comfortable getting into this project.
Go slow, take your time, make notes and take pictures if possible
Good luck!!
 
Jason,

Pop the head off (remove the gas tank and head tin).

You will need to remove the fuel line, coil wire, S/G wires, choke cable, throttle cable, and the grill housing to pull the engine.

There are 4ea. 3/8" bolts (9/16" wrench) holding the engine to the frame. Jack up the front of the tractor and wedge the axle to oscillate all the way to one side...you will find a 3/8" bolt under the frame directly above the axle...remove, repeat for the other side (helps to use a "Gearwrench" style ratcheting box end for these). The other two engine bolts are located about 6" to the rear of the axle.

With these bolts loose and all of the "extras" off/loose, you should be able to slide the engine forward about an inch to release the driveshaft from the pilot bearing and another inch or so to clear the clutch driver pins.......lift the front of the engine up slightly as you pull it forward. It should be clear at this point, but be careful, those Kohlers are not light and you will be lifting 80-100#.......best done by 2 people.

Take 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", and 9/16" sockets and wrenches with you as well as a straight screwdriver, pliers, and possibly 5/16" wrench/nut driver. Vice grip is useful for clamping rubber fuel lines.

Good luck!
 
Looks like we were all typing at once....at least we agree!!!!!!
 

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