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Archive through December 01, 2013
- Thread starter bjamison
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
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- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Harry B - I had no idea you had a 100. For some reason I was thinking you were down to a 169. I don't know how fast a 100 is - but I can tell you my 126, when I'm mowing is fast! My mowing entails a lot of trimming, turning and obstacles. It seems like 1st gear is to fast for tight trimming, but to slow for straight stretch mowing and 2nd gear is to fast for safely driving around some obstacles and right bumpy on the straight stretches. BUT - I'm trying still learning this tractor.
I asked a quick question one time on this forum as to how everyone used their hydro, use the foot pedal to bring the tractor to neutral/stop or hydro lever only. My middle son was using the foot pedal, my older boy was using the hydro lever - as was I. I think just about all of the replies indicated using the hydro lever. I've kind of started slipping into using the hydro foot pedal like my middle son. Reason is - I can set the hydro (the 109 is very steady on ground speed - the 1650 needs some work) like putting a gear drive into gear, cruse around and when I need to slow or stop, mash the pedal as required. I keep both hands on the steering wheel and feel I have more control this way. It's kind of like having a gear drive (with infinite speed settings) and just like a gear drive, mash the pedal to stop and change gears/speeds.
Dennis F and others - I've got a set of 23 deg Firestones and Carlisle ags on my other color tractors. With weight, I can tell no difference between the more expensive 23 degree Firestones and the Carlisle tires. Also have a really hard/worn set of Carlisle ag tires and they do just great. I add weight and it's like the tractors are Jeeps. For whatever reason, my Firestones are badly cracked and dry rotted vs the Carlisle. Having said all that, if $$$'s were no object, I'd buy the Firestones - just for the cool factor. In fact, I'm thinking of taking the Firestones I've got, putting a new set of tubes in them and putting them on the 126. That ought to look really nice...
I asked a quick question one time on this forum as to how everyone used their hydro, use the foot pedal to bring the tractor to neutral/stop or hydro lever only. My middle son was using the foot pedal, my older boy was using the hydro lever - as was I. I think just about all of the replies indicated using the hydro lever. I've kind of started slipping into using the hydro foot pedal like my middle son. Reason is - I can set the hydro (the 109 is very steady on ground speed - the 1650 needs some work) like putting a gear drive into gear, cruse around and when I need to slow or stop, mash the pedal as required. I keep both hands on the steering wheel and feel I have more control this way. It's kind of like having a gear drive (with infinite speed settings) and just like a gear drive, mash the pedal to stop and change gears/speeds.
Dennis F and others - I've got a set of 23 deg Firestones and Carlisle ags on my other color tractors. With weight, I can tell no difference between the more expensive 23 degree Firestones and the Carlisle tires. Also have a really hard/worn set of Carlisle ag tires and they do just great. I add weight and it's like the tractors are Jeeps. For whatever reason, my Firestones are badly cracked and dry rotted vs the Carlisle. Having said all that, if $$$'s were no object, I'd buy the Firestones - just for the cool factor. In fact, I'm thinking of taking the Firestones I've got, putting a new set of tubes in them and putting them on the 126. That ought to look really nice...
hydroharry
Well-known member
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- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Bill "Quick Question" J - you're right. The only Cub I really have is my 169 (Hydros are Forever). The 100 in the picture is "supposed" to be mine, but it's currently located at my son's place in CT. I get to see/drive it about once a year, sometimes twice.
BILL "Quik-Question". - We only answer your questions when you start the topic with, "I have a QQ!".
I don't know how long Carlisle has made GT tires, but I almost bought my first pair of 23-8.50 'Stones USED back in 1970. Neighbor was pulling his 122 CC in our 4-H club's garden tractor pull and he brought his Firestone shod 122 to pull. He would have sold them to me but he said if he did well he was going to keep them. Well, he won TWO classes of the three classes held. He didn't enter the third class. Only real competition he had were 3-4 Economy Power King tractors trailered down 100 miles from Rockford, IL. I wanted them for mowing with the 70 I restored this spring. The 6-12 GY Pizza-Cutter turfs would spin out if you as much as spit on the grass. CC wheel weights were really hard to find too, but they sold for about $10/pair if you found them. First pair I bought in '71 I paid $5.50 for. The carriage bolts cost more than the weights!
So it's possible there's 40+ yr old Firestone 23-8.50 tires around. My Firestone Ag tire engineering book has the 23-8.50X12 & 27-8.50X15 All Traction Field & Road tires in it and there's no published date in or on it, but I would guess it was published around 1964/1965 by the age of the tractors in it. So they could be close to 50 yrs old. I bet your old Firestone tires are in better shape than my similar aged Good Years!
My two pair of "Stones are about 13 yrs old and 10 yrs old, and you couldn't tell either pair from brand new.
Firestone invested MILLIONS of Dollars building, "The MACHINE", a towable draft load dynomometer for ag drive tire testing back in the 1960's, and their 23 deg. tread tires were the result of their first few years of testing. I bet Carlisle doesn't have a machine like that! Even over on the RPM forum, when tire selection comes up, Firestone always gets the most recommendations. I really didn't care for the 23 degree bars when they first came out, but it's hard to argue with the way they perform. When IH first released the 1206, first over 100 HP row-crop tractor, they ALL came on Firestone 18.4X38 tires. Anything else they put on those tractors would spin the rims inside the tires ruining the inner tubes from the sidewalls buckling. The only thing I would even consider other than a Firestone would be a radial, like the old BF Goodrich Power Saver radial, now the Michelin AgriBib, and they're WAY more expensive. But Firestone makes a great ag radial too.
Ohhh and proper hydro operation is to reduce/change speed with the hand lever. The foot pedal is reserved for PANIC stops.
I don't know how long Carlisle has made GT tires, but I almost bought my first pair of 23-8.50 'Stones USED back in 1970. Neighbor was pulling his 122 CC in our 4-H club's garden tractor pull and he brought his Firestone shod 122 to pull. He would have sold them to me but he said if he did well he was going to keep them. Well, he won TWO classes of the three classes held. He didn't enter the third class. Only real competition he had were 3-4 Economy Power King tractors trailered down 100 miles from Rockford, IL. I wanted them for mowing with the 70 I restored this spring. The 6-12 GY Pizza-Cutter turfs would spin out if you as much as spit on the grass. CC wheel weights were really hard to find too, but they sold for about $10/pair if you found them. First pair I bought in '71 I paid $5.50 for. The carriage bolts cost more than the weights!
So it's possible there's 40+ yr old Firestone 23-8.50 tires around. My Firestone Ag tire engineering book has the 23-8.50X12 & 27-8.50X15 All Traction Field & Road tires in it and there's no published date in or on it, but I would guess it was published around 1964/1965 by the age of the tractors in it. So they could be close to 50 yrs old. I bet your old Firestone tires are in better shape than my similar aged Good Years!
My two pair of "Stones are about 13 yrs old and 10 yrs old, and you couldn't tell either pair from brand new.
Firestone invested MILLIONS of Dollars building, "The MACHINE", a towable draft load dynomometer for ag drive tire testing back in the 1960's, and their 23 deg. tread tires were the result of their first few years of testing. I bet Carlisle doesn't have a machine like that! Even over on the RPM forum, when tire selection comes up, Firestone always gets the most recommendations. I really didn't care for the 23 degree bars when they first came out, but it's hard to argue with the way they perform. When IH first released the 1206, first over 100 HP row-crop tractor, they ALL came on Firestone 18.4X38 tires. Anything else they put on those tractors would spin the rims inside the tires ruining the inner tubes from the sidewalls buckling. The only thing I would even consider other than a Firestone would be a radial, like the old BF Goodrich Power Saver radial, now the Michelin AgriBib, and they're WAY more expensive. But Firestone makes a great ag radial too.
Ohhh and proper hydro operation is to reduce/change speed with the hand lever. The foot pedal is reserved for PANIC stops.
ANTHONY - ACR is a VERY good thing. NO way will the starter/generator spin the larger Kohlers over the top of a compression cycle without some help. Sometimes on my K321, the ACR doesn't engage to ease starting and the engine will spin to the next compression stroke and then stop, slips the starter pulley inside the belt
I pull start a K181 Kohler, 8 HP, it starts really well, normally on the 1st or 2nd pull, but I would not want to start a larger engine at ALL. I've had bigger pull start engines spin "backwards" and pull me into the engine, similar to what old hand crank start engines used to do that broke so many people's hands & arms before electric start was common.
A good tune-up really helps starting. Having the ign. timing right on the moeny, good plug & plug wire. Clean connections on ALL the battery connections like on the solenoid, starter/generator, switch, grounds, etc.
I pull start a K181 Kohler, 8 HP, it starts really well, normally on the 1st or 2nd pull, but I would not want to start a larger engine at ALL. I've had bigger pull start engines spin "backwards" and pull me into the engine, similar to what old hand crank start engines used to do that broke so many people's hands & arms before electric start was common.
A good tune-up really helps starting. Having the ign. timing right on the moeny, good plug & plug wire. Clean connections on ALL the battery connections like on the solenoid, starter/generator, switch, grounds, etc.
J
jclazar
Guest
So that is what the little die cast cam gear cover is! Fastened on my two cap screws. My '63-'65 Kohler K241 don't have that cover. I want to say Kohler made the ACR standard on all Iron Line after the 70/100 Series, but cant put a finger on it. I did notice the cover starting with the 122 of 1966.
On another subject, my Carlisle AG Tru Power 6-12" were about $72 each before tax. The GY 6-12" turf I was going to replace with the AG were in such good condition, I had to purchase a extra set of 6-12 rear rims for the AG tires. Personally, I really like the original GY tires and tread found common to the IHCC line up.
Perhaps, the closer the tread lugs are when we look at the FS 23*, the better performance in dry, hard ground? My thoughts come from what I see the pullers using. That specific tread and bar spacing seems closer than that of the Carlisle, or any AG tire.
On another subject, my Carlisle AG Tru Power 6-12" were about $72 each before tax. The GY 6-12" turf I was going to replace with the AG were in such good condition, I had to purchase a extra set of 6-12 rear rims for the AG tires. Personally, I really like the original GY tires and tread found common to the IHCC line up.
Perhaps, the closer the tread lugs are when we look at the FS 23*, the better performance in dry, hard ground? My thoughts come from what I see the pullers using. That specific tread and bar spacing seems closer than that of the Carlisle, or any AG tire.
John L., from a 1x2/3 series brochure:
