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Archive through August 29, 2013
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rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
Shultzie. The 782 problem could be some thing as simple as a sheared drive shaft pin with enough resistance to turn the hydro when the going is easy and slips when more power is required. Only way to find out is to tear into it.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
OR....the 782 is way low on hytran and starving the pump on hills.....OR, it has the wrong filter on it.....OR the check valve is leaking and dosen't pull hills well........OR it has very llow charge pressure due to a broken relief spring........list is long.....
BUT, a used hydro would probably fix any internal issues (you could even swap off the front plate and use a non-ported hydro as a donor) if it was a hydro issue and you could get yourself a cheap 782 for the cost of a roll pin, or a used non-ported hydro and some gaskets seals........
Something to think about!!!!
BUT, a used hydro would probably fix any internal issues (you could even swap off the front plate and use a non-ported hydro as a donor) if it was a hydro issue and you could get yourself a cheap 782 for the cost of a roll pin, or a used non-ported hydro and some gaskets seals........
Something to think about!!!!
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- Harry Bursell
Jeremiah - I think I'd recommend going with an angle that gives you 10 and 3/4" at the front but 9 and 1/2" at the back. The reason I say this is because the little extra length this will give you on the other measurements is unused space over the head and muffler and won't interfere - we're only talking 1/4" within the shield area.
As for going with Gerry's cardboard recommendation. I actually feel like you're close enough to just proceed to metal prototype.
Dennis - I almost hate to point this out to you but I think you're perception of the large quieter muffler and heat shield is a little bit off. If you installed one I believe you'll find it's actually easier and you have more room to mount/dis-mount your PTO to mule drive belt. This muffler is mounted nearly parallel across the front of the engine. The original style mufflers use that exhaust elbow off the engine block that places the back part of the muffler way down low and results in the muffler placement at more of a 45degree angle as you look at it from the front of the tractor. The parallel placement of the larger quiet style will give your hands more room over the PTO pulley AND you'll be less likely to burn your knuckles. IH should have called it a Quiet and More Safe Muffler. I'm not trying to take any wind out of your engine block (sails) here but once Jeremiah has this shield completed and the muffler installed I'm certain he'll post some progress and final pics, and you'll be able to see what I'm talking about - and maybe you'll even recommend this as an additional value change to these old units. I don't think it's possible to convert any narrow frame units because of the length of the muffler and the narrow hood. Might be interesting if someone wants to attempt a design for it. Jeremiah - you got a narrow frame to try this on once you've got the 149 done?
Shultzie - I see a few recommendations but in my view I think I'd jump on this 82series unit if you can get it for a good cheap price. If the problem is with the rearend that has to be the lowest demand used part of a hydro. The next lowest demand used part is probably the hydro pump itself. Although a pump with the additional ports for a hydro lift will have a little more demand than a non-ported pump. You could check around ahead of time but I think you'll find these pretty readily available and pretty cheap. If I were you I'd probably look for a complete rearend with pump and just plan a complete swap.
As for going with Gerry's cardboard recommendation. I actually feel like you're close enough to just proceed to metal prototype.
Dennis - I almost hate to point this out to you but I think you're perception of the large quieter muffler and heat shield is a little bit off. If you installed one I believe you'll find it's actually easier and you have more room to mount/dis-mount your PTO to mule drive belt. This muffler is mounted nearly parallel across the front of the engine. The original style mufflers use that exhaust elbow off the engine block that places the back part of the muffler way down low and results in the muffler placement at more of a 45degree angle as you look at it from the front of the tractor. The parallel placement of the larger quiet style will give your hands more room over the PTO pulley AND you'll be less likely to burn your knuckles. IH should have called it a Quiet and More Safe Muffler. I'm not trying to take any wind out of your engine block (sails) here but once Jeremiah has this shield completed and the muffler installed I'm certain he'll post some progress and final pics, and you'll be able to see what I'm talking about - and maybe you'll even recommend this as an additional value change to these old units. I don't think it's possible to convert any narrow frame units because of the length of the muffler and the narrow hood. Might be interesting if someone wants to attempt a design for it. Jeremiah - you got a narrow frame to try this on once you've got the 149 done?
Shultzie - I see a few recommendations but in my view I think I'd jump on this 82series unit if you can get it for a good cheap price. If the problem is with the rearend that has to be the lowest demand used part of a hydro. The next lowest demand used part is probably the hydro pump itself. Although a pump with the additional ports for a hydro lift will have a little more demand than a non-ported pump. You could check around ahead of time but I think you'll find these pretty readily available and pretty cheap. If I were you I'd probably look for a complete rearend with pump and just plan a complete swap.
HARRY - The larger later model mufflers that exit out above the S/G driven pulley work fine on NF tractors. I've seen them on dozens of NF CC's. I had an old muffler like that from the K321 engine out of a 147 that I put on the K241 when I installed it in the 70 last spring. Plus I had a 129 w/K301 for fifteen yrs that had the same style muffler as I put on the 70/K241, so Yes, I know how they fit.
Both the 70 & 72 have the voltage regulators relocated back to under the seat base inside the frame with the stock wire harness so it's way away from heat & vibration of the engine, and isn't in the way when I feed the mule drive belt down towards the PTO pulley. The 70 has the advantage there currently, no grill in it yet, but the factory grill will be installed some day soon I hope. The 70 also appears to have a bit more room between the engine & grill casting than the slanted back 72 grill since the 70's grill slants forward a bit.
I really fail to see how something four or more inches in diameter can be LESS of a problem to feed a belt around than something only 1-1/2 inches in diameter. That being said, Ain't NO WAY I'm giving up my straight pipe on my 72. SON's neighbor's appreciate the quieter muffler on the 70/K241, but I like my straight pipe on the K321, and my nearest neighbors are about 1/4 mile away, they can't hear it like SON's neighbor's could. And I know I'll never want to install a heat baffle on top of the cyl. head. That tractor is the way it is, because I BUILT IT that way. ;-) Been a L-O-N-G process too, over 32 yrs so far. And it's finally getting to be the way I want it.
Both the 70 & 72 have the voltage regulators relocated back to under the seat base inside the frame with the stock wire harness so it's way away from heat & vibration of the engine, and isn't in the way when I feed the mule drive belt down towards the PTO pulley. The 70 has the advantage there currently, no grill in it yet, but the factory grill will be installed some day soon I hope. The 70 also appears to have a bit more room between the engine & grill casting than the slanted back 72 grill since the 70's grill slants forward a bit.
I really fail to see how something four or more inches in diameter can be LESS of a problem to feed a belt around than something only 1-1/2 inches in diameter. That being said, Ain't NO WAY I'm giving up my straight pipe on my 72. SON's neighbor's appreciate the quieter muffler on the 70/K241, but I like my straight pipe on the K321, and my nearest neighbors are about 1/4 mile away, they can't hear it like SON's neighbor's could. And I know I'll never want to install a heat baffle on top of the cyl. head. That tractor is the way it is, because I BUILT IT that way. ;-) Been a L-O-N-G process too, over 32 yrs so far. And it's finally getting to be the way I want it.
Daniel G: I got a 4 inch 60's style decal for my front blade at
http://www.superscoutspecialists.com/store/pc-141-4-60s-style-ih-decals.aspx
The dimensions aren't exactly the same as the original one but they're very close...
http://www.superscoutspecialists.com/store/pc-141-4-60s-style-ih-decals.aspx
The dimensions aren't exactly the same as the original one but they're very close...
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Don T: That chopper is sitting on Beaulah, is it not? I knew I put a hood ornament on something backwards!
A good day. Jeanne's birthday. I went to a junk yard and told the guy I was shopping for a birthday present for her. Came home with this:
Had it running within an hour, but hydro return tube is broken so I won't know until tomorrow if the pump is toasted. K321 sounds really nice - and smooth. Warmed it up and dropped the oil and don't know if that may have been a mistake with little or no hydro oil at the pump. Will find out tomorrow, I guess.
I had that same idea, Jeff. Was surprised at the serial # on the frame - it's the newest 149 here.
I'm totally not unhappy with the $175 I gave the guy, but, Charlie, don't start boxing up another seat, yet!
P.S. This 149 is the first tractor to ever come in here that both brake and pto safety switches work. That took a minute to sink in!
A good day. Jeanne's birthday. I went to a junk yard and told the guy I was shopping for a birthday present for her. Came home with this:
Had it running within an hour, but hydro return tube is broken so I won't know until tomorrow if the pump is toasted. K321 sounds really nice - and smooth. Warmed it up and dropped the oil and don't know if that may have been a mistake with little or no hydro oil at the pump. Will find out tomorrow, I guess.
I had that same idea, Jeff. Was surprised at the serial # on the frame - it's the newest 149 here.
I'm totally not unhappy with the $175 I gave the guy, but, Charlie, don't start boxing up another seat, yet!
P.S. This 149 is the first tractor to ever come in here that both brake and pto safety switches work. That took a minute to sink in!
The no spark condition just went to a no start condition.
Thank you to all who have advised me on my 1250 Nightmare no spark problem. By the wiring diagrams provided, and the advice given, I determined that there is power to the coil from the battery, and no farther. I removed the coil and took it to the local Kohler sales/service center for testing. The coil test failed. I replaced the coil. The engine cranked, but still showed no spark at the grounded spark plug. I moved the tractor back about 6" and removed the points cover. I turned the key to see if there was spark at the points. The engine would not crank, the solenoid did not click. Nothing. It seems to show an open in the starting circuit. There is 12.41 volts in the battery; plenty to crank the engine. The neutral safety switch is bypassed. I have no idea where to begin to look for the problem.
For those who do not understand why I call this tractor my 1250 Nightmare, this explains a lot. It goes from bad to worse with this thing.
Thank you to all who have advised me on my 1250 Nightmare no spark problem. By the wiring diagrams provided, and the advice given, I determined that there is power to the coil from the battery, and no farther. I removed the coil and took it to the local Kohler sales/service center for testing. The coil test failed. I replaced the coil. The engine cranked, but still showed no spark at the grounded spark plug. I moved the tractor back about 6" and removed the points cover. I turned the key to see if there was spark at the points. The engine would not crank, the solenoid did not click. Nothing. It seems to show an open in the starting circuit. There is 12.41 volts in the battery; plenty to crank the engine. The neutral safety switch is bypassed. I have no idea where to begin to look for the problem.
For those who do not understand why I call this tractor my 1250 Nightmare, this explains a lot. It goes from bad to worse with this thing.
jbaker
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- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Frank this changes some info I have, so now its between April and Febuary..
As far as the serial number location, on my 1X8/9 series 3 out of 5 have it on the rear. According to my serial numbers the switch was made from rear to side somewhere between Feb.'74 & May '74.
As far as the serial number location, on my 1X8/9 series 3 out of 5 have it on the rear. According to my serial numbers the switch was made from rear to side somewhere between Feb.'74 & May '74.
Frank ? the small metal tube at the front of the hydro is the pump suction tube. Not good if it was leaking. Air in the pump won`t help much also. I bet you have all the parts to fix that. You know it is probably a good thing we don`t tractor hunt together lol. Just think how many we would drag home .
Frank,
Just a question, not a challenge.
Are you saying that the ignition switch and/or the pto switch could have failed in the time that it took to move the tractor a half foot, remove the points cover, and try again?
I have a new PTO switch. It looks like the parts throw begins.
Just a question, not a challenge.
Are you saying that the ignition switch and/or the pto switch could have failed in the time that it took to move the tractor a half foot, remove the points cover, and try again?
I have a new PTO switch. It looks like the parts throw begins.
proessler
Well-known member
Kevin, BullsEye...there is a manuals section here for further info. HYTRAN is preferred lube.
proessler
Well-known member
Denny, I went by today (A.M.) to pickup some sod from Paul's Turf & Tree. But we didn't see any Cub Cadets roaming in neighborhood... a 982 would fit the bill. Put on almost 200 miles chasing hose & sprinklers today...
